Community Forums

richardcoxid · 10-25-2006, 08:33 AM

Hey Guys and Gals!

Now that winter is approaching there have been/will be a number of posts about winterizing our RV's. I have a different method of getting the water out of my '98 HH II water lines.

One day I was thinking (that is dangerous sometimes I know!) about "blowing" the water out. All of the faucets are above the level of the city water connection. That means that-

A, You are blowing some of the water up hill against gravity.

B, If you don't have an "oil less air compressor" there is the chance of contaminating the water lines with oily vapor from worn air compressor rings.

C, I don't have a "clip on" air hose chuck. This requires that my wife
has to hold the air chuck on the blow out fitting.

Why not VACUUM the water out and let gravity assist you? I have been
using this method for so many years now that I don't remember how long

A short piece of 5/8" auto heater hose will just slip over the ½" PEX
drain lines. A trip to my local hardware store provided the PVC fittings to fabricate an adapter to adapt the heater hose to my wet/dry shop vacuum hose.

1, Drain the HWH.

2, Replace the HWH drain plug, verify that the HWH inlet, outlet and
by-pass valves are open. That way you will be pulling a vacuum on
both the hot and cold water headers at the sane time.

3, Connect the shop vac. to one of the drain lines, open the drain
valve and turn on the vac.

4, Go through the RV (the big lead weight with the aerodynamics of
a barn door, LOL!) opening and closing each of the Hot and Cold water
valves at each of the faucets and the toilet. Run the water pump for
a short time to clear it of water.

5, Close that drain valve, shift the shop vac. to the other drain line.

6, Repeat steps #3 &4.

7, Don't forget to put about a cup of RV anti-freeze in each of the "P" traps.

When finished I will have normally have about a half of gallon of water in the shop vac.

To facilitate the drying of the HWH I then remove the HWH drain plug.

After losing a water pump a few years ago (I still think that either the suction/discharge check valve was just stuck) I will pump about a cup of RV anti-freeze into the pump to protect it.

This may not be for everybody but it works for me.

Richard

richardcoxid · 10-25-2006, 08:33 AM

Hey Guys and Gals!

Now that winter is approaching there have been/will be a number of posts about winterizing our RV's. I have a different method of getting the water out of my '98 HH II water lines.

One day I was thinking (that is dangerous sometimes I know!) about "blowing" the water out. All of the faucets are above the level of the city water connection. That means that-

A, You are blowing some of the water up hill against gravity.

B, If you don't have an "oil less air compressor" there is the chance of contaminating the water lines with oily vapor from worn air compressor rings.

C, I don't have a "clip on" air hose chuck. This requires that my wife
has to hold the air chuck on the blow out fitting.

Why not VACUUM the water out and let gravity assist you? I have been
using this method for so many years now that I don't remember how long

A short piece of 5/8" auto heater hose will just slip over the ½" PEX
drain lines. A trip to my local hardware store provided the PVC fittings to fabricate an adapter to adapt the heater hose to my wet/dry shop vacuum hose.

1, Drain the HWH.

2, Replace the HWH drain plug, verify that the HWH inlet, outlet and
by-pass valves are open. That way you will be pulling a vacuum on
both the hot and cold water headers at the sane time.

3, Connect the shop vac. to one of the drain lines, open the drain
valve and turn on the vac.

4, Go through the RV (the big lead weight with the aerodynamics of
a barn door, LOL!) opening and closing each of the Hot and Cold water
valves at each of the faucets and the toilet. Run the water pump for
a short time to clear it of water.

5, Close that drain valve, shift the shop vac. to the other drain line.

6, Repeat steps #3 &4.

7, Don't forget to put about a cup of RV anti-freeze in each of the "P" traps.

When finished I will have normally have about a half of gallon of water in the shop vac.

To facilitate the drying of the HWH I then remove the HWH drain plug.

After losing a water pump a few years ago (I still think that either the suction/discharge check valve was just stuck) I will pump about a cup of RV anti-freeze into the pump to protect it.

This may not be for everybody but it works for me.

Richard

ISLAPP · 10-25-2006, 08:57 AM

Thanks for sharing that with us. Don't think I've heard of this before, but like you said, it works for you. It might help others also.
Thanks again,
Mike

DonavonP · 10-25-2006, 11:14 AM

That's a great idea Richard. Thanks!! A guy could hold a little cup of anti-freeze up to the spigot and suck a little AF back through the on/off cassette just to be safe and to quell any anal retentive tendencies that might bubble to the surface (not me though

)

I've heard of guys hand pumping antifreeze back through the system from the kitchen sink but your idea is better.

TXiceman · 10-25-2006, 04:52 PM

That sounds like one approach to get it done...but the best method is to go far enough south that youdon't have to worry about freezing.

ken

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 10-25-2006, 06:28 PM

That's an interesting idea...

Hoverbug · 10-27-2006, 07:05 AM

Thats a nice plan Richard,but for anyone leaving the drain plug out of the water heater you are asking a wasp or other critter to take up residence. I would suggest 1/2 pet flea collar be placed in the wh compartment. Been doing this for years and have not had any critters or nests since. Happy Trails!!

Roam America · 10-28-2006, 06:09 AM

to solve the problem of hooking the air supply to the rig, take an old 1/2 garden hose and cut a piece off the end. Using a hose clamp, attach a 1/4 air chuck to the cut end. The other end connects to the city water supply. I adjust the compressor down to 30 #.

HeatAir · 11-01-2006, 05:18 PM

I use a quick connect (QC) fitting so that I can do the job alone. The quick connect is the same style I use on my air tools and I use assorted brass bushings to got it to fit the hose connector.

I set the regulator to 40 PSI and blow all the water out of the lines in the camper. I then put about 2 gallons of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and turn the pump on (I make sure the camper is leaning towards the intake of the pump by parking it on 2 - 2X10 boards).

Once I run the RV antifreeze through all the lines, as well as squirt a bit into the WH, I re-attach the QC and blow the antifreeze out. I save most of it for reuse, but let a little into the P-traps to protect them.

Works for me....