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02-13-2018, 10:56 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
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Adding manual battery disconnect and isolator
I have had some issues with my push-button disconnect switch not always working, and my emergency battery switch on the dash has never worked since I bought my coach. I have chased the issue with the emergency start switch and have basically given up on it. Today I had a thought that will resolve both of these issues but I want to run it by the geniuses on here. Perko makes a disconnect / isolator switch that has options for one battery, all off or both batteries connected. I'm thinking I'll place the Perko switch near the house batteries, run a 4ga wire to the chassis battery and abandon the factory stuff for both the use/store button and the emergency start button on the dash. I'll set the switch to off for storage and if I need emergency connecting between both batteries I'll just put the switch to the "Both" setting.
I will fuse the cable between the chassis and house batteries on both ends to protect against any shorts. Can any of you see anything wrong with this setup?
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02-13-2018, 11:08 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oroville, CA
Posts: 3,133
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Don't give up on your use/store sw. Its made by Intellitec and the switch is quite reliable. What isn't reliable is the very small trigger wires that attach to the solenoid. Make the two trigger wires so that they are a good connection, tighten the big nuts on the two big wires and you should be all set. You can actually take apart the solenoid and clean the inside-its just a big flat washer that does get oxidized. Just clean it, check the trigger wires, and you should be good to go.
__________________
Bill, Kathi and Zorro; '05 Beaver Patriot Thunder
2012 Sunnybrook Harmony 21FBS (SQEZINN)
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
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02-13-2018, 11:21 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 509
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This should help trouble shoot, or wire in a new stow/store relay....as for the emergency relay, it is just a simple 3 pole relay, small center terminal gets 12v and it locks, remove 12v and it unlocks
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2012 RAM 3500 dually
06 ragen 3506 BH
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02-15-2018, 02:59 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 893
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I want a disconnect switch for my chassis battery but the switch is pricey.
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02-15-2018, 03:42 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cimplexsound
I want a disconnect switch for my chassis battery but the switch is pricey.
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Put one of these into the Negative cable between the chassis battery and ground connection. Not very expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011E...pL&ref=plSrch#
__________________
2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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02-15-2018, 03:55 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 2,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow96z
I have had some issues with my push-button disconnect switch not always working, and my emergency battery switch on the dash has never worked since I bought my coach. I have chased the issue with the emergency start switch and have basically given up on it. Today I had a thought that will resolve both of these issues but I want to run it by the geniuses on here. Perko makes a disconnect / isolator switch that has options for one battery, all off or both batteries connected. I'm thinking I'll place the Perko switch near the house batteries, run a 4ga wire to the chassis battery and abandon the factory stuff for both the use/store button and the emergency start button on the dash. I'll set the switch to off for storage and if I need emergency connecting between both batteries I'll just put the switch to the "Both" setting.
I will fuse the cable between the chassis and house batteries on both ends to protect against any shorts. Can any of you see anything wrong with this setup?
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If you have an inverter , the switch should be rated for at least 200 amps. I would run heavier wire to the chassis battery , close to the size of the battery cables. Otherwise should work.
__________________
1993 Tiffin Allegro Bay 32'
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02-15-2018, 04:13 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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FWIW I prefer the cheap disconnects. Everything is out in the open so a failing contact is obvious. Not so with the enclosed switches that cost more. HTH, YMMV
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