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Old 06-03-2020, 09:49 PM   #1
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Aluminum Wheels Polishing

By no means am I saying this is the only way to polish wheels that have no clear coat on them but, I have polished Weld Polished wheels for 25 years on a race car and this works for me.

This new to me 2011 Entegra Coach Anthem was by far the toughest.



So this is the first pass and an obvious first time these wheels have seen a buffer.

1. Started with wheel cleaner that foams and has some costic chems to remove road grime, iron, and brake dust.
2. Used a small sponge wrapped with 600 grit sandpaper and water hose running slightly to remove corrosion spots, small scratches etc..
3. Used 2000 grit next with same sponge and water technique giving the wheel a dull polished look
4. Mothers mag and aluminum cleaner (all the parts store had). And a Mother’s ball on my drill and buffed wheel to the state they are in now.


Phase 2.
I am still not satisfied and will repeat this process but, I do advise to start with
400 grit, then 600, then 2000 before going to buffing stage.

The max grit I would use for heavy scars is 320.

Always using water to wet sand.

You CANNOT harm the wheel by using these grit numbered sandpapers if you are doing it by hand and applying just a little pressure until you dial it in.
Water is key to keep it slick and moving smoothly.

If you pick up a grain of sand. Stop wipe the wheel and rinse the sandpaper or you will be adding back scratches. You’ll hear it, dont worry.
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Old 06-04-2020, 09:35 AM   #2
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I got some good advice a long time ago regarding aluminum wheels. When I went to polish them after I had washed the coach, they had water spots on them that were extremely difficult to get off. I tried everything and finally, after many hours, the spots came off. I called a company that made one of the cleaners. He said the water spots were a chemical reaction between the aluminum and the city water. So after that, once washed, I chamoised the water off them.

I did wonder what that water was doing to my insides if it was reacting to aluminum.
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:50 PM   #3
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I use Mothers Aluminum Polish and a soft polishing pad only, once a year.
Emory cloth on aluminum?
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Old 06-04-2020, 09:20 PM   #4
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Fiesta, when you say a polishing pad, do you mean a soft pad?
Do you have any small scratches that need buffed out?
Thanks.
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Old 06-04-2020, 09:27 PM   #5
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Try this product using their method, you'll never use anything else...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=vYfZOPZXkOI

I'm not affiliated with the company, just a happy user.
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Old 06-04-2020, 10:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconTrail View Post
Try this product using their method, you'll never use anything else...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=vYfZOPZXkOI

I'm not affiliated with the company, just a happy user.

This works extremely well if you keep your new wheels new.

These were toast. Lot’s of corrosion and rash all over them so sanding was mandatory just to get them back to raw un molested aluminum.

Once/ I get the wheels to new condition. Phase 2 going a little more aggressive on the grit then I will maintain with Purple. It really does work well.
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Old 06-06-2020, 04:38 AM   #7
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Looks like they are coming along nicely. Likely not necessary but I always use 1200 between the 600 and 2000. Seems to allow the 2000 to get a brighter polish. For my final polish I always use a felt pad on a variable speed angle polisher-not as easy to use as the edge is where the magic happens but the finished product is superior to the ball/drill.

Like you I have restored some pretty shot out wheels. I spent over a couple decades polishing stone countertops and still have a bunch of tooling so I am perhaps a bit better equipped than average.
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Old 06-06-2020, 01:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhooker View Post
Looks like they are coming along nicely. Likely not necessary but I always use 1200 between the 600 and 2000. Seems to allow the 2000 to get a brighter polish. For my final polish I always use a felt pad on a variable speed angle polisher-not as easy to use as the edge is where the magic happens but the finished product is superior to the ball/drill.

Like you I have restored some pretty shot out wheels. I spent over a couple decades polishing stone countertops and still have a bunch of tooling so I am perhaps a bit better equipped than average.

Yes.
I'm a contractor in Florida and tools are everything.
The second pass on these (not done yet)
I'm going down to 320 and I'll try the 1200 between that 800-2000
I have a high speed buffer and thought about wool but, I'll try the felt pad also.
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Old 06-06-2020, 09:08 PM   #9
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With the felt pad I apply the polish at about 5000-6000 rpm. Either way they are looking good!
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Old 06-06-2020, 09:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhooker View Post
With the felt pad I apply the polish at about 5000-6000 rpm. Either way they are looking good!

Do you find that also adding a spritz of water gives them a mirror finish in the end as well when you are buffing/polishing?

I find that water is a good lubricant to make them luster.
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Old 06-07-2020, 07:50 AM   #11
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Yes after I polish with the machine, I remove the residue with a wet terry towel and then hand polish with a dry towel. I polish with the machine dry-that creates the friction to burnish the aluminum and cut the oxide off the surface. Gives it that “T2” Terminator finish

The absolute easiest and best way to do this is to pull the wheel. Not always possible but gives the most complete look allowing the shine to be perfect going under the lug nuts. It is also much easier to perform the task with the wheel laying flat on the ground.
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Old 06-07-2020, 08:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhooker View Post
Yes after I polish with the machine, I remove the residue with a wet terry towel and then hand polish with a dry towel. I polish with the machine dry-that creates the friction to burnish the aluminum and cut the oxide off the surface. Gives it that “T2” Terminator finish

The absolute easiest and best way to do this is to pull the wheel. Not always possible but gives the most complete look allowing the shine to be perfect going under the lug nuts. It is also much easier to perform the task with the wheel laying flat on the ground.

When I had high polished wheels on my drag car I’d pull them off and take them in the living room and watch tv.

Back then it was all hand power. They didn’t make all the handy wheel tools we have today.
Wenol is still one of the best polishes ever but hard to find. Amazon has it but mother’s does fine now that we have machines and rpm’s haha!!
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Old 06-07-2020, 02:47 PM   #13
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On my Diplomat, I found that I used waaaay to much polish for several months and couldn't figure out why I could never get them shiny. I eventually realized, that it only took about a thimble full of polish to make them shine (this was after they were highly polished). I also kept the tires and wheels covered between trips.

I started with the Mother's Red Power Ball, but found it didn't hold up well. I started using the Flitz polish and polishing tool. Rather than a foam ball, it was dozens of strips of material making up a ball. They were tougher and didn't get torn up as easily. I kept a small power ball for the wheel holes.

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Old 06-09-2020, 02:05 PM   #14
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Looks like some serious work but great job. The trick is to keep them looking good.

3M makes a metal cleaner & polish. It is a soft paste. Works very well. I have an aluminium tower on my boat. Salt water kept. Can't get any harsher than that. The product does an amazing job & stands up well against the salt.

Works very well on brass too.
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