Any way to get both AC's to work with 30 amp shore power?

[Hooligan]

The problem is when starting an Air Conditioner it will draw about 15-17+ amps. When running it usually draws about 10. You can run both AC's if they don't restart at the same time.. Limit any other high current items and after the AC's are running, turn the thermostats way down so they will constantly run. At night or when using the microwave you can operate on a single AC. Used this for years in my previous 30 amp motorhome. (Actually only turned the front AC on steady and let the rear AC cycle.)

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by Hooligan

The problem is when starting an Air Conditioner it will draw about 15-17+ amps. When running it usually draws about 10. You can run both AC's if they don't restart at the same time.. Limit any other high current items and after the AC's are running, turn the thermostats way down so they will constantly run. At night or when using the microwave you can operate on a single AC. Used this for years in my previous 30 amp motorhome. (Actually only turned the front AC on steady and let the rear AC cycle.)

lots of tricks just need to understand power management.

[Skip426]

Person next to me , was running both A/Cs on his coach, on 30 amp shore power, on third day his adaptor cord and the park plug melted down; and then the fight started.
He said the breaker should have tripped before the melt down and didn't because it was old and corroded. Park of course didn't see it that way and wanted him to pay for the repair. Next morning he wasn't there.
Just saying. If you need to run both A/C s to be comfortable , find a park with 50 amp power.

[MRUSA14]

Originally Posted by Hooligan

The problem is when starting an Air Conditioner it will draw about 15-17+ amps. When running it usually draws about 10. You can run both AC's if they don't restart at the same time.. Limit any other high current items and after the AC's are running, turn the thermostats way down so they will constantly run. At night or when using the microwave you can operate on a single AC. Used this for years in my previous 30 amp motorhome. (Actually only turned the front AC on steady and let the rear AC cycle.)

I agree with this. I have run 2 ACs on 30A numerous times and it works. But don't use microwave or other high amp items at the same time, and set your inverter/charger to the minimum charge setting.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by MRUSA14

It's a bad practice to do that. It puts a heavy load on your transpsfer relay and eventually the relay contacts will fail. Better to always unplug shore power before starting generator.

MRUSA
I disagree.

IMO, loading the "relay contacts" in a transfer switch will NOT cause premature failure of the relay contacts.

Whenever/anytime that 120VAC power... (shore... OR generator... OR both), is going into the transfer switch the "relay contacts" are "loaded".
(The only time the "relay contacts" in a transfer switch aren't "loaded" is when there is NO incoming 120VAC power).

That's how transfer switches in RVs work.

Mel
'96 Safari

[wa8yxm]

As noted above some RV's have energery management systems.

Others.. Well there used to be a company called PSRV (Power Solutions RV) but last I checked their web page (.net) would not load).

Basically on a 50 amp rig WITHOUT Energery management this is how it worked.

Original

Main breaker box branch breaker ------------- Air Conditioner

New config

Box breaker-----(Jbox) Pigtail-Outlet Inlet-Breaker---A/C

I built my own by using 12Ga wiring.

I removed the A/C's feed from teh breaker box (All 3 wires)
I ran a 12ga lead to outside the coach (This can be in an existin gcompartment but in my case I put an access box in the wall and terminated everything there) added a junction box right behind the fuse panel (Easy to do on my rig) and "extended" the A/C's power lead again using 12ga wire to the same box on the outside, There is the breaker and other stuff (In my case an outlet and plug)

To use with park,, I use a 12ga extension cord to park's 15/20 amp outlet.. NOTE all 12 ga wire, nothing smaller This is important.

Works great, in fact using it as I type.

I am not sure of the need for the 2nd breaker on the inlet side of the PSRV system,, but .. Well,, Better to play safe, You do not (normally) know the condition of the park breaker (In my case it's less than 2 weeks old, I watched them install it after I called to complain that the 30 amp outlet was.. not good. (Hiss crackle sputter).

[Cypressloser]

I don't think in most settings the RV is the limiting factor, it is the breaker on the pedestal that trips at a draw well below 30 Amp, in our area code says that a breaker has to trip at 80% load and breakers do wear out. Then in a Campground setting when one AC runs they all run and that can lead to an even more dangerous situation, that means the whole system is starving for power which can be a fire hazard or lead to brownouts.

[Gadget Man]

Originally Posted by okrvrepair

...The only way to make this work out is an energy management system. Fleetwood did this a lot. With little success.

True. However, my '05 Fleetwood has an Intellitec EMS and it has worked perfectly for nine years now. I can run both A/C's on 30A power with zero issues. I have even tried to trip the pedestal breaker but the EMS sheds power to other appliances to cover the demand. My buddy with a new much more expensive MH trips breakers all the time. I'm keeping my older cheaper MH!

Craig

[Chuck13]

Agree with Craig. My Fleetwood also has the intelitec EMS and it works great. Once, last summer on a very hot day, I was plugged in at the house, with the MH in the shelter. Had both ACs going to cool unit so I could work inside. When I checked, one AC was not cooling. Started checking things, turns out the neighborhood was having a low voltage situation due to everyone running ACs, I think. The EMS handled it well. Not something you want to do often, but it was an interesting experience.

[Gadget Man]

Originally Posted by Chuck13

Agree with Craig. My Fleetwood also has the intelitec EMS and it works great. Once, last summer on a very hot day, I was plugged in at the house, with the MH in the shelter. Had both ACs going to cool unit so I could work inside. When I checked, one AC was not cooling. Started checking things, turns out the neighborhood was having a low voltage situation due to everyone running ACs, I think. The EMS handled it well. Not something you want to do often, but it was an interesting experience.

Chuck,

Not sure that would have been your EMS at work in that situation. The EMS only handles a power load on the RV side of your electrical connection. What you are describing is more along the lines of a brown out which can cause damage. A good surge protector will help with this. In your case, it would have completely shut off power to your coach until an acceptable power level was restored.

Craig

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by Skip426

Person next to me , was running both A/Cs on his coach, on 30 amp shore power, on third day his adaptor cord and the park plug melted down; and then the fight started.
He said the breaker should have tripped before the melt down and didn't because it was old and corroded. Park of course didn't see it that way and wanted him to pay for the repair. Next morning he wasn't there.
Just saying. If you need to run both A/C s to be comfortable , find a park with 50 amp power.

The breaker likely did not trip because it did not pull excessive amperage. There was a bad connection at the plug either the male or female needed serviced, it generated heat at the "faulty" connect.

[Triker56]

Fleetwoods with the EMS system uses a 13.5K front AC and a rear 11K AC.
OP didn't say what size his AC's are.

I replaced my Fleetwood rear 11K AC with a 13.5K and front 13.5K with a 15K Heat pump.

I no longer can run both at the same time with the EMS.
I installed a 35 AMP breaker box 20/15 AMP to run the front 15K with a separate 30AMP shore line cord.
Works for me. Can keep cool into the high 90's outside.

[Fl_Richard]

Originally Posted by Ranger Smith

You can not run 2 AC units off of 30 amps. You need a 50 amp service to do that. Is your rig a 30 amp or a 50 amp rig. If it is 30 you will need to convert it to 50 amp. New transfer switch will also be needed if you have a 30 amp rig.

Funny... I've run 2 AC's off a 20 amp power cord. But I use the Fleetwood energy management system that they have been un-successful in using.....

[Alan_Hepburn]

Originally Posted by MikeLeonard

I have 30 amp service when connected to shore power. The generator is a 5500. It produces 45.8 amps.

Doesn't clearly answer the question. If you connect to a 30A shore supply you will have 30A service - no matter if your RV is set up for 30A service, 50A service, or 100A service. The question was "How is your RV built?" Most manufacturers try to match the generator to the incoming supply as best as they can, so a 30A coach would have a 3500W generator while a 50A coach would have a 5500W generator.