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03-29-2023, 10:03 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Bay area Northern Cali
Posts: 191
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Anyone add insulation?
Hi guys just thought I'd ask you a question or two. Since it's been so cold here in California, lots of rain, it's been pretty frigid for us Californians.I know we're spoiled compared to most places in our country. I wanted to know if anyone has done insulation on their RV? I don't know why they just don't do that. Just in the cold it's like I can keep my RV warm, but it gets cold and really quick. And when I go to repair the water damage and pull the panels off I thought well why don't I just put insulation in there while I'm doing that? Any thoughts on that? Has anybody else? Are we not supposed to do that? I have no idea. And also I could feel like a draft and I think it's the seal to my slide out. I have a 16 ft slide out. And it feels a bit breezy at times and I want to go park behind this place where I go bird watch and slide my slide out. Maybe see if the seal looks okay. Hopefully it's okay and I just need to like I don't know do something to it. Any thoughts on that? One last thing is I what I did for the big window in front, you know you have that curtain slide around that really doesn't do much? I replaced it with the blackout curtains the heavy duty ones like theater quality. And I got to tell you, I started doing it on all my windows because it keeps the drafts and the cold from the windows. It really helps better than just like regular fabric or curtains. I got the heavy duty blackout ones and I got panels. I just put them the long way and it's actually really cool and they look nice. It makes such a difference in keeping this thing warm. I bet you it'll do the same thing to keep it cool in the summer. Anybody else did anything like that? I was going to make curtains for it because the curtains are falling apart and I was waiting for blackout material to come. I wanted to make my own. Being out of blackout material so I finally broke down and went to Kohl's of all things and they had a big sale on these panels blackout panels and they had cool patterns on it. So I instead of having them upright I turned them sideways and hung them that way. It actually looks nice and it's really kind of groovy so if nobody's done that it's just a thought, it fits perfect the width wise. It's a little short on the length so I got an extra set and I put a third panel in the middle, but it works great it makes such a difference. I have a million other questions but I'm going to start with that I'll do a different post for my other stuff thanks guys! You rock!
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2003 Hurricane Triton V-10
32 ft.
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03-29-2023, 10:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Posts: 277
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One thing that would be easy with almost zero weight and a total DIY is to get some of those window cover kits that tape up a sheet of plastic, that extra layer and sealed air can make a decent difference.
Otherwise if you are stationary I often see people "Skirt" the sides of their RV/motorhome with solid sheets of foam insulation, though results may vary on that
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03-29-2023, 10:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Nacogdoches, TX
Posts: 1,191
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I live in the south and travel a lot in the summer, so I try to keep the heat out most of the time. Your blackout curtains over the windows is a good idea. I have the roll up sun screen and night shades on all windows and the front windshield.
Just recently I added Reflectix in all the cupboards and storage bins that line the outside walls. I put it on the inside of the wall (the back of the cabinets) and along the ceiling inside the cabinets.
In the bedroom I have two closets that are on the back of the motorhome and on one side. The back of these closets cover a large flat area, so I used 1/2 inch insulation sheets and placed on the inside of the walls (the back of the closets).
I also removed my outside TV (never used it) and placed sheet insulation in it's place. I also removed the exterior panel behind my residential refrigerator and put sheet insulation there also.
I just did this so don't know how much good it will do, but I think it will help to some degree.
Thanks,
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Wade & Debby Griffin
2018 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 32SA, Ford F53 24K Chassis
2012 Jeep Liberty
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03-30-2023, 08:15 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 4,247
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Good advice posted above.
Every RV design is potentially different.
I insulated between water pipes and outside to prevent freezing. I bought a trailer without slides because slides tend to have issues with insulation, sealing, and snow on top that is not good for freezing weather.
Anywhere you can put insulation without endangering water pipes is helpful.
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Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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03-30-2023, 08:54 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,138
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I did the same with any cabinet with and outside wall, and a slide ceiling. Use reflective on all windows depending on outside temp and sun exposure. But the best thing I do is camp under a shade tree.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wog099
I live in the south and travel a lot in the summer, so I try to keep the heat out most of the time. Your blackout curtains over the windows is a good idea. I have the roll up sun screen and night shades on all windows and the front windshield.
Just recently I added Reflectix in all the cupboards and storage bins that line the outside walls. I put it on the inside of the wall (the back of the cabinets) and along the ceiling inside the cabinets.
In the bedroom I have two closets that are on the back of the motorhome and on one side. The back of these closets cover a large flat area, so I used 1/2 inch insulation sheets and placed on the inside of the walls (the back of the closets).
I also removed my outside TV (never used it) and placed sheet insulation in it's place. I also removed the exterior panel behind my residential refrigerator and put sheet insulation there also.
I just did this so don't know how much good it will do, but I think it will help to some degree.
Thanks,
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__________________
Tom
2016 Newmar Bay Star Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2DR 4WD Sahara, Automatic, Hard Top/Sunrider
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03-30-2023, 11:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,420
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When I rehabbed my 1995 Warrior class a 6 years ago I used 1/2” rigid polyisocyanurate insulation (aka “R-Board”) against the walls,ceiling and floor behind all the cabinets and other non exposed but accessible areas. Some inaccessible places I used expanding foam.
Made a big difference in climate control, especially during the summer months here in the hot and humid south. The air conditioning actually cycles now instead of having to run full blast all the time.
The foil face polyisocyanurate insulation will actually take latex paint, so I was able to paint over inside the cabinets.
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1995 Winnebago Warrior 23RC Class A
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03-30-2023, 11:23 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,132
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Yes.. just about every where.. look in back of refrigerator and I found 6in gap.. on both sides.. used fire resistance insulation and metal tape on burner side.. filled rest with fiberglass and eternabond tape.. also I have heated basement.. so all under there.. if you have class a.. look under hood.. under dash.. I insulated all that too.. then members post here to insulate the roof a/c units.. that is on my list.. used reflective insulation every where.. just remember to keep all pipes on warm side on rv..
Good luck and keep us posted
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2000 southwind storm, workhorse custom chassis with 7.4l vortec
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03-31-2023, 09:13 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 7,553
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Front windshield big convection draft. Old MHs had heavy double panel drapes. Cabinets over windshield often poorly insulated if pods contain entertainment equipment they are usually easy to remove. Skylight and vent insulated pillows. If only single pane windows, if possible the heat shrink film is amazing if that's an air gap at frames to glass. Owners mention insulated cover and or rug over steps on class A.
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95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
Aquahot, Generac Guardian7.5k
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03-31-2023, 09:56 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Vermont
Posts: 356
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Steps are the most easily missed. I had snow not melt on my steps when the rv was 65 degrees.
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Travis
2021 Coachmen Mirada 35es
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03-31-2023, 09:58 AM
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 26,324
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I've stuffed insulation in various open spaces where the factory didn't do a good job, e.g. in the front cap behind the overhead cabinets. That was a definite improvement up front. Also some Reflectix at the back of some cabinets that chilled or heated noticeably in cold or hot weather. Seemed to help a little.
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Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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03-31-2023, 10:31 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 6,465
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Gone from doing like others above. On my son's 1964 TT we stripped the inside all the way to studs. Then installed 1 1/2" foil backed rigid foam insulation and used spray foam in the smaller spaces. Had already used Reflectix on the windows. Night and day difference.
On RVs that had inside steps I added 3" rigid foam board to all exposed surfaces and spray foam in the tight spaces. Then added carpet to all the exposed surface of the steps on the inside. To make it simple to clean. I glued the carpet pieces to sheet metal sections and velcroed that to the existing step surfaces. Pull it out and wash it as needed.
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Fred & Denise (RVM157) New Mexico
2007 Excel Classic 30RSO & Coach House 272XL E450
2007 RAM 3500, Diesel, 6Spd Auto, SWD, 4x4, CC & LB
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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03-31-2023, 05:32 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 976
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If you are going to use expandable foam, get the minimal expanding stuff that is made to insulate around window and door frames. The regular expanding foam can expand with enough pressure to force things out of place. My son in law installed a new door and used the regular expanding foam. After is cured, it forced the door frame into the sides of the door.
__________________
2018 KZ 270thle
2015 Silverado.
2012 GL1800
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