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Old 06-14-2021, 12:13 PM   #113
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IMHO - RVs are not fancy enough. They should tell you what is wrong, where the noise is and how to fix it, what component is about to fail, and when you should leave your campsite to avoid the tornado that will arrive in 24 hours.

But then I'd like the RV to get me to and from when I can no longer drive. Maybe there will be an upgrade package by that time.
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Old 06-14-2021, 12:56 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
IMHO - RVs are not fancy enough. They should tell you what is wrong, where the noise is and how to fix it, what component is about to fail, and when you should leave your campsite to avoid the tornado that will arrive in 24 hours.

But then I'd like the RV to get me to and from when I can no longer drive. Maybe there will be an upgrade package by that time.
well said and I conquer
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:14 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by PKI View Post
IMHO - RVs are not fancy enough. They should tell you what is wrong, where the noise is and how to fix it, what component is about to fail, and when you should leave your campsite to avoid the tornado that will arrive in 24 hours.

But then I'd like the RV to get me to and from when I can no longer drive. Maybe there will be an upgrade package by that time.
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Old 06-14-2021, 04:02 PM   #116
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Was told that the battery might have to be disconnected to "reset" the computer if it got too annoying.
More than a few modern vehicles "complain" after the battery has been disconnected for a while. Like for major service or battery replacement. Upon reconnection the vehicle will demand that you roll various windows up and down so the computer can relearn their positions. So yeah, it's a thing. To me, a fairly ridiculous thing, but anyway.
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Old 06-17-2021, 09:34 PM   #117
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re: Dead Coach batteries and GEN: If you are in a Motorhome, most have a BOOST SWITCH, either at driver or coach door, (One owner, after 10+years, finally found his on side of driver's seat pedestal) and it works both ways, or you can even start main engine and it should start charging coach from Alternator? Give it 3-10-minutes to boost the coach, then Crank GEN? If it does NOT, THEN you have one or two bad solenoids... or bad coach batteries ... it happens... LUCK
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Old 06-17-2021, 09:43 PM   #118
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re: "Now it's my surprisingly well working old Dometic AC. Worked great, until it didn't. Narrowed it down to a circuit board which no longer exists anywhere. I'm a bit loathe to toss an otherwise great AC unit for another lacking one bit of electrical. So now I'm at trying to find a bad component on the board, paying someone else to do that, or trying to retrofit a board from a different model." Circuit boards should be interchangeable. (a few possible differences) 120v=IN, 120vac= OUT, THERMOSTAT Input; FREEZESTAT Input; MAYBE "TIME-DELAY" (for compressor protection)? Maybe separate Outputs for FAN vs Compressor? Guess maybe overlooking HEAT PUMP? ANY variation should be easy to rewire? LUCK P.S. btw, FEW YEARS BACK, my air would not kick on, removed circuit board, found 1-2 loose push-on, few suspicious like corrosion...tightened loose female wire ends w/ slight pinch of pliars, reinstalled all, been working fine since; Concluded loose + remove/ reinstall (scratching) restored proper electrical...
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Old 06-18-2021, 12:09 AM   #119
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Yes. It is Fancy...
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Old 06-18-2021, 06:29 AM   #120
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re: Dead Coach batteries and GEN: If you are in a Motorhome, most have a BOOST SWITCH, either at driver or coach door, (One owner, after 10+years, finally found his on side of driver's seat pedestal) and it works both ways, or you can even start main engine and it should start charging coach from Alternator? Give it 3-10-minutes to boost the coach, then Crank GEN? If it does NOT, THEN you have one or two bad solenoids... or bad coach batteries ... it happens... LUCK
Two comments.

First, although I am no expert on RV electrical systems, it seems to me that the BOOST switch is really for allowing the house battery to help the chassis battery, not the other way around. After all, if you have a good chassis battery and a dead house battery you can always start the engine and that will automatically add power to the house battery. No need for a BOOST switch. But the reverse is not true. Added to that, if you have Lithium batteries installed you likely also have either a BIM or a DC-DC Charger installed, and thus there may not be any way to power the chassis battery from the house battery as they will have removed the line going from the alternator to the house battery and thus the BIM or B2B connection is really only one way.

Second, although I have looked I can find no BOOST switch in our new Regency Ultra Brougham RV so if it is there hidden somewhere it is of little use to me.

As a result of all of this I now carry one of those car jump starters similar to this one. The actual one we bought apparently is no longer available on Amazon.
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Old 06-18-2021, 08:44 AM   #121
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Concluded loose + remove/ reinstall (scratching) restored proper electrical...
Thanks. It appears the transformer that puts out 24 volts...isn't. Found one I hope is a good substitute and it will be here next week. In the meantime as soon as I have a chance I am going to swap the circuit board for that of the rear AC and see what happens. And of course since I'm in there...refreshing the foam seals, cleaning the coils, straightening fins, checking the R22 charge, and even adding radiant barriers inside the covers to help fight sun load.
But with a full time job and two part time ones....
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Old 06-23-2021, 03:10 PM   #122
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Two comments.

First, although I am no expert on RV electrical systems, it seems to me that the BOOST switch is really for allowing the house battery to help the chassis battery, not the other way around. After all, if you have a good chassis battery and a dead house battery you can always start the engine and that will automatically add power to the house battery. No need for a BOOST switch. But the reverse is not true. ......
I keep a few beer caps in my driver's seat cup holder because the reverse is true.

Learning how something works does not help if your arms are not long enough.

The solenoid that connects the house and chassis batteries can be activated by the boost switch or automatically by the BIRD. When my coach was new to me I had to replace the BIRD to restore the automatic charging of house batteries while driving down the road.

Later on I was doing some trouble shooting hampered by short arms when I may have shorted out something trying to figure out why the BIRD had stopped working again. When it got cold enough to run the furnace, I found out what the something was.

Anyhow before I could figure out why the coach batteries were not automatically charging, I read on the this forum that a beer bottle cap holding the boost switch closed would replace the BIRD.

I have an old Onan generator that runs on propane and is hard to start when is cold and damp. I use starting fluid to keep from running down the battery.

Last year it was raining. So I started the diesel. Then I held the boost switch while starting the Onan. Did not have to go out in the rain.

The reverse is true.
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Old 06-23-2021, 03:14 PM   #123
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Old 06-24-2021, 12:12 PM   #124
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The solenoid that connects the house and chassis batteries can be activated by the boost switch or automatically by the BIRD.
Would you please explain what a BIRD is? Unless, of course, you are referring to one of those small feathered things that fly.
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Old 06-24-2021, 12:17 PM   #125
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Would you please explain what a BIRD is? Unless, of course, you are referring to one of those small feathered things that fly.


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Old 06-24-2021, 05:14 PM   #126
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