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Old 11-08-2020, 09:30 AM   #1
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Beware Camco Water Heater Tank Rinser

I bought one of these to clean my hot Water tank. Five seconds after I started, the long tube blew off inside the water heater where it now permanently resides. I don't know what this means for the future of the water heater but would advise others to use extreme caution in using this poorly designed and manufactured device. Chuck
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Old 11-08-2020, 02:14 PM   #2
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Wow that sounds frustrating, thanks for the tip.

Have you tried filling the tank with water and then removing the plug, maybe if you do that a few times it will come out. If not you may consider getting one if those endoscopes and maybe you can get to it with some kind of grabber thingy.
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Old 11-08-2020, 02:49 PM   #3
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Had one of those Camco Water Filler that you attach to your hose then stick down into gravity port to fill fresh water tank Second time I used it the Tube blew off.....been inside my fresh water tank since 2008 Plastic tube inside your Water Heater????
I can see several issues:
Getting hung up on one of the Dip Tubes
Banging around breaking one of the DIP Tubes
Getting stuck in drain hole and blocking draining of tank

If Suburban ....easy to remove the electric element and give you larger hole to retrieve it from
Same if Atwood ...access not as easy due to element being installed from backside of tank Either way....I would remove it

CAMCO......CHEAP, JUNK and I refuse to purchase anything from CAMCO

HINT: To flush water heater
Turn water supply off
Relieve System Pressure...open faucet hotside
Remove drain plug
Turn Water Supply ON...FULL Stand back and let it BLAST out the drain hole
*Cold inlet dip tube points downward and will stir up sediment on bottom of tank
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Old 11-08-2020, 02:57 PM   #4
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I totally agree. Camco is mostly junk.
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Old 11-08-2020, 02:57 PM   #5
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Thatís sucks, as mentioned you can try a long fingered grabber. Used mine time when I drop a nut or bolt that my fingers or arms canít reach.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-24...396H/206264355
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Old 11-08-2020, 03:02 PM   #6
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That’s sucks, as mentioned you can try a long fingered grabber. Used mine time when I drop a nut or bolt that my fingers or arms can’t reach.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-24...396H/206264355

If Atwood drain hole is only 1/2" opening...may be too small to use grabber and pull tube out

Suburban has 3/4" drain hole and MIGHT be able to use grabber

Personally I would remove element ...1" Opening

Plastic....Suburban WH it could get stuck between combustion/exhaust 'U' tube which is STACKED on top of each other.
Plastic up against combustion/exhaust 'U' Tube can melt
Less chance with Atwood due to diagonal 'U' Tube...
Water temps could reach 170*/180*F if T-STAT fails which could make that cheap plastic very soft/pliable (heck 130*/140*F might also...don't know temp rating of that cheap plastic)

Remove it...be done with it....why leave it to cause problems
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Old 11-08-2020, 03:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Wilf View Post
Thatís sucks, as mentioned you can try a long fingered grabber. Used mine time when I drop a nut or bolt that my fingers or arms canít reach.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-24...396H/206264355
You beat me to it. I have had one in my toolbox most of my life. I also have several types of magnetic picker-uppers for the steel stuff.
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Old 11-08-2020, 05:41 PM   #8
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That's an easy one, the grabber will get it in no time, mine has saved me a bunch of times. I've even started small nuts with it. Take out the T&P valve, it's another opening to work from.
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Old 11-09-2020, 07:34 AM   #9
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Another vote for the grabber! I couldn't get by without that thingy!
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Old 11-09-2020, 08:02 AM   #10
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Funny.. I just bought 1 of those things. I guess I'll have to test it out before I use it.
Old Biscuit's method should work well, too. but since I've already drained the lines I'll try it next time.
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Old 11-09-2020, 12:47 PM   #11
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That's an easy one, the grabber will get it in no time, mine has saved me a bunch of times. I've even started small nuts with it. Take out the T&P valve, it's another opening to work from.
Well, hopefully. Just went out and looked at my 6 gallon Atwood and see that the drain and the t/p valve holes are both 1/2 inch. On top of that, the drain on mine is angled up which would probably make things even more difficult.

The tube went in so it'll come out,,, but spotting it and getting it lined up might be the fun part. If it doesn't work out to be easy, then I'd think one of those spring loaded grabbers and an endoscope might be the solution.
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Old 11-09-2020, 12:53 PM   #12
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Well, hopefully. Just went out and looked at my 6 gallon Atwood and see that the drain and the t/p valve holes are both 1/2 inch. On top of that, the drain on mine is angled up which would probably make things even more difficult.

The tube went in so it'll come out,,, but spotting it and getting it lined up might be the fun part. If it doesn't work out to be easy, then I'd think one of those spring loaded grabbers and an endoscope might be the solution.

Good luck 'fishing' thru those small openings

Unfortunate Atwood installed the element on backside...that is a 1" opening
If you have a combo gas/electric model
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:28 PM   #13
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Maybe because mine is so old, I have used it for at least 15 years without any problems. But maybe mine wasnít manufactured non-USA.
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:44 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by chuckbear View Post
I bought one of these to clean my hot Water tank. Five seconds after I started, the long tube blew off inside the water heater where it now permanently resides. I don't know what this means for the future of the water heater but would advise others to use extreme caution in using this poorly designed and manufactured device. Chuck
Sorry but I chuckled.

Might fill it with cold water and unscrew the nut and see it it flushes out.
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