Camper or MH?

[FaithIsTruth]

Hi all, we are gearing up for a cross country trip followed by some extended winter camping up in the snow belt of the NW, just below Canada.

I am new to RV's in general, so I am hoping for some helpful info as to which would better service our needs.

For the camper, it would be towed by a 2012 GMC Yukon XL 1500 4x4 with a hitch rating of 5k (so no goosenecks or 5th wheels) She does have 260k on her, but she runs/looks/rides/drives like she's not a day over 125k. Still, my concerne there would be undue stress. To her credit, the fluids stay nice and clean.

I have found a few campers that claim to have a "polar package" or similar, I have also found ones with "Kodiac" and "Arctic fox" in the names, which, unless I am mistaken, are made for cold weather camping?

For the motorhomes (class A's specifically) I have not seen anything like that, but the ones I am looking at have heated holding tank bays and thermal pane windows.

This will be a family trip, so kiddo's are a factor. A camper would make camping easier, and a MH would make the trip easier. Everywhere that we will be stopping and staying will have full RV hookups, so the biggest unknown for me, is which would fare better camping in the snow (think 2-3 feet overnight commonly)?

Thanks in advance and God bless!

[Skip426]

True four season travel trailers are few and far between AND heavy .

Do you know the tow weight rating of your Yukon and is it 4 wheel drive ?

All weight in the vehicle has to be deducted from max tow weight ; as max tow is calculated with only the driver in the vehicle .

[SteveNSue]

We use to tent camp and migrated to camping cabins (no frill boxes with electricity). Set up and tear down, especially in bad weather, was difficult and shortened our drive time so the cabin seemed like a better option. The cabin had porches which we could set up cooking and the kids could play while we set up and cleaned up in the morning. The cabins that are offered these days are more hotel rooms and cost about the same.


Eventually, we migrated to a toy hauler which we converted into a camper but the tow exceeded out truck. Driving across Texas and Oklahoma in second gear at 4K rpm was a recipe for a breakdown. The kids are grown now so my wife and I have upgraded to a Sprinter Class C. It's made for driving and has enough room to be comfortable. A hotel room quality with campground prices.



I would encourage you to get a Class A while you have kids and then decide if a smaller vehicle would suite your desires and needs..

[FaithIsTruth]

Originally Posted by Skip426

True four season travel trailers are few and far between AND heavy .

Do you know the tow weight rating of your Yukon and is it 4 wheel drive ?

All weight in the vehicle has to be deducted from max tow weight ; as max tow is calculated with only the driver in the vehicle .

The hitch rating for the Yukon is 5k, and yes, it is a 4x4

[Gary RVRoamer]

I have found a few campers that claim to have a "polar package" or similar, I have also found ones with "Kodiac" and "Arctic fox" in the names, which, unless I am mistaken, are made for cold weather camping?

Names and labels are 99% marketing blather, so don't make any assumptions about that. Some may be a bit better than others but few are intended for more than just a few chilly nights. Sometimes, the availability of an "arctic" or "polar" option simply means they left the insulation out of the base model to get a cheaper price, so the package simply adds in what was left out in the first place. The higher priced models do better simply because they put more money into their construction.


Class A motorhomes generally have what the polar packages would have added anyway, but again the higher-end models do substantially better than entry level.

[Gary RVRoamer]

You are talking a 5000 (or less) lb trailer vs a much larger & heavier motorhome. Not even close as a comparison. You need to look around online or at RV dealers to see what you can get that is under 5000 lbs GVWR and with enough beds and room for your family. I think you are in for a reality check!


Nor are any in that size/weight range in any way suitable for camping in winter snow. And peaking of that, where are you going to find full hook-up campsites in the winter, especially in regions where there is 2-3 feet of snowfall?

[NXR]

Originally Posted by FaithIsTruth

The hitch rating for the Yukon is 5k, and yes, it is a 4x4

The hitch rating really has no bearing on how much a vehicle can safely tow. It just establishes an upper limit. Reality can be a whole lot less.

The wheelbase, the payload, the curb weight, the GVWR, each axle's GAWR, how much weight is actually on each axle, and the GCWR all factor in.

Some of those numbers will be on a sticker inside the driver door frame. The more of the actual numbers you can post the more accurate the comments here will be.

From this site: https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2012-GM...l_Drive/specs/

You have 1,462 pounds of payload. That number assumes there is NOTHING and NOBODY in the vehicle AND there are no options over the base model.

The wheelbase is supposed to be 130" or 10' 10". A good rule of thumb is that the first 10' (120") of wheelbase gives you 20' of trailer length. Each additional 4" of wheelbase gives you one foot of extra trailer length. So you're looking at (roughly) a 22' trailer length maximum.

That link claims the towing capacity s 7,800 lbs so I'm also wondering why yours only has a 5,000 lb hitch.

Too many unknowns so far to give you any good advice other than "small and light".

Also, the word "Arctic Pak" is a marketing term. It usually means there are some small electric heaters to try and keep the tanks from freezing but not the piping or the people inside.

Almost none, if even any, have "thermo pane" windows in the sense of the windows used in a house. Those usually are "dual pane" windows with just air between the panes, not an inert gas. They help keep condensation down and reduce noise but the added R factor is supposed to be less than R2.

That amount of snow on the roof can cause structural damage depending on how wet it is. Those temps are going to burn a LOT of propane as well. A camper's propane tank might last a couple of nights. A motorhome's propane tank might last a week.

As Gary said, it's reality check time. Good for you for thinking to ask before you bought. That could have turned out...poorly.

Ray

[jimcumminsw]

My question to you is have you checked out campgrounds that would be opened in the winter? Especially ones that will see 2 to 3 Ft of snow overnight as you have stated.

Most if not all of the campgrounds in the Northern part of the US are usually closed in the winter months. Some might close in mid-OCT and others by Nov 1 and then reopen in early April or mid-April.
Just saying.

Now since this will be your first RV/MH I would look for a slightly used model that will fit your needs and try this out first. You or your family may decide this is not what you want to do in the first place.

We have been RVing since the 70's and have all sorts of different models of trailers. My neighbor who had never camped had listen to myself and my wife on how we loved RVING and traveling all over the US.

My neighbor went out and bought a brand-new Tiffin Class C motorhome, never asking for my advice. His was a MB model with a diesel engine plus a diesel generator and solar panels for the motorhome and the ability to tow his new car he also purchased for his needs. Paid will north of $150K for his motorhome as equipped.

After one year he sold the MH because it was too much work camping for him. It was just him and his wife and they never really traveled anywhere. Just stayed local near his home.

I tow a mi-size 5th wheel a Cedar Creek that has heated tanks a 40,000 BTU furnace plus an electric fireplace 15,000 BTU's. The trailer walls have an R-value of 9, the floors and celling have an R-value of 38.

We have camped in 25F, and above temps, water hose is disconnected from outside spigot, Tank heaters are on, and we would have the furnace plus the fireplace and an on board portable electric heater running to keep the trailer around 65F in the daytime temps.

Just saying.

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by FaithIsTruth

Hi all, we are gearing up for a cross country trip followed by some extended winter camping up in the snow belt of the NW, just below Canada.

I am new to RV's in general, so I am hoping for some helpful info as to which would better service our needs.

For the camper, it would be towed by a 2012 GMC Yukon XL 1500 4x4 with a hitch rating of 5k (so no goosenecks or 5th wheels) She does have 260k on her, but she runs/looks/rides/drives like she's not a day over 125k. Still, my concerne there would be undue stress. To her credit, the fluids stay nice and clean.

I have found a few campers that claim to have a "polar package" or similar, I have also found ones with "Kodiac" and "Arctic fox" in the names, which, unless I am mistaken, are made for cold weather camping?

For the motorhomes (class A's specifically) I have not seen anything like that, but the ones I am looking at have heated holding tank bays and thermal pane windows.

This will be a family trip, so kiddo's are a factor. A camper would make camping easier, and a MH would make the trip easier. Everywhere that we will be stopping and staying will have full RV hookups, so the biggest unknown for me, is which would fare better camping in the snow (think 2-3 feet overnight commonly)?

Thanks in advance and God bless!

Please read all the responses here. This is a very intense proposal for you and family (you never said the total and ages of kids) Camping in snow 2-3 feet says you may NOT find anywhere that’s a full service location. No matter what style, brand, make of RV you think you want…..they are NOT 4 season alternatives to a real house when you mention your camping in the snow. Huge problems for you will be staying warm enough (huge propane and electricity consumption) water and waste….keeping these from freezing.

RVing needs a lot of homework to do different things for different people.

[202235f]

That sounds like an awesome trip for you and your family. However, it also promises to be challenging. Arm yourself with a lot of research coupled with carefully planned starter rv trips.
Even under the most favorable conditions your Yukon probably isn't the right match for a cross country trip towing anything. With 260,000 miles on it, the chance for a major breakdown is probably pretty high. Even if it's in excellent condition it's on borrowed time. Your trip would certainly bring you and your Family to sparsely populated areas. Not a good position to be in.
Rent a couple of rv's for short close to home trips. Try a TT and a motorhome. With everyone involved in the planned trip. Take notes, pictures or film with your phone camera. Practical experience doing it should help you narrow your search.
If this trip is a dream that you have shared with your family, do it. The memories you make will last you and your family a lifetime. You'll find answers to some of the questions posed by others. Careful research planning and practice is your friend.
Good luck and please keep us posted!

[Jay D.]

Originally Posted by 202235f

That sounds like an awesome trip for you and your family. However, it also promises to be challenging. Arm yourself with a lot of research coupled with carefully planned starter rv trips.
Even under the most favorable conditions your Yukon probably isn't the right match for a cross country trip towing anything. With 260,000 miles on it, the chance for a major breakdown is probably pretty high. Even if it's in excellent condition it's on borrowed time. Your trip would certainly bring you and your Family to sparsely populated areas. Not a good position to be in.
Rent a couple of rv's for short close to home trips. Try a TT and a motorhome. With everyone involved in the planned trip. Take notes, pictures or film with your phone camera. Practical experience doing it should help you narrow your search.
If this trip is a dream that you have shared with your family, do it. The memories you make will last you and your family a lifetime. You'll find answers to some of the questions posed by others. Careful research planning and practice is your friend.
Good luck and please keep us posted!

best thought of the day!!!!
Jay D.

[twogypsies]

You previous posts stated you'll have 5 children with you. That's what you want to zero in as to what RV you should be looking at. How are you going to sleep 7 people? A small travel trailer won't do it... at least it won't give anyone any privacy or place to put their things.

You should not be looking at something with single pane windows for winters in northern Idaho (I believe Idaho was mentioned in previous posts). You'll be sopping up water constantly with 7 people and cooking and showers and it will run down the inside of your walls. We've had both single pane and double pane and there's a big difference in condensation on walls, ceiling, closets, mattress against a wall and general warmth. It was just the 2 of us and we didn't winter in cold climate.

Personally, I think you should re-think your plan of living in an RV in winter for an extended time with 7 people.

https://www.lamesarv.com/blog/lifest...age-in-your-rv

[followingsea]

I have to agree that this is a plan that will not work. There is a joke letter about moving to God's country with it ending with the writer declaring a few months later arriving at a new God's country where it does not snow.

The whole idea of having an RV is going where it is nice in the summer and nice in the winter. Find a better plan.

[Marine359]

Totally agree 100% with @twogypsies.
Your TV isn’t stout enough to tow a trailer big enough for your family. A herd that size would need a 30ft trailer or fifth wheel and at least a 3/4 ton truck. And as previously mentioned, a true 4 season trailer is truly heavy.

That leave the motorhome option.
We’ve winter camped with both a motorhome and a 3-season trailer. Not much difference in ability to stay warm when you have hookups. The winter camping tactics stay the same. Key is to keep plumbing from freezing by keeping warm air or heating mats under the floor, and warm air circulating to lower cabinets. Dual pane windows help, but our 3-season didn’t have that. The rig should be well insulated with foam of 1.5” thick or greater. In either case, small ceramic heaters are great at supplementing furnace heat. With motorhome, you need to provide some heat for the wet bay. Although we’ve camped with hookups and boondocked in winter, we didn’t like it too much. If you’ll be below freezing for a week or more, you’ve got to worry about replenishing fresh water, because you’ll freeze up is you leave hose connected to fresh water inlet unless you use a heated hose. Waste tank must be kept defrosted, or you’ll overflow them. And you’ve got to make a lot of propane refill runs to Teactor Supply because below freezing, you can use over 3 gallons per day. But the biggest hassle is staying dry. When you use propane heat, you create condensation, and even more of it with more people, when you cook, and when you shower. Unless you use a dehumidifier, the moisture will build up and become a real problem. We didn’t have a dehumidifier, so, we had to open roof vent and use fans to vent out the wet air, or turn on the air conditioner, nether of which were pleasant.