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06-27-2011, 12:29 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Hammond, IN
Posts: 353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edj
Back when I was using 30 amp for my trailer, I made an electrical hookup that tested the CG power before plugging my rig in. I started with a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter plug. Then plugged in the tester you referenced into the adapter. That told me if the plug was wired correctly. Then I removed the tester and used a AC meter to test the voltage. Most of the time everything is OK, but every once in a while, somebody has replaced the outlet and screwed up the wiring.
For over/under voltage and a secondary wiring check, I have a surge protector installed in the trailer.
It is a little more complicated testing the wiring on the 50 amp circuits. But, on my HitchHiker, the 50 amp surge protector will catch any problems.
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I just thought this would help those not familiar with the use of meters or are uncomfortable sticking things in electrical outlets...
__________________
1982 CrossCountry - NW Indiana
Ford Electrician
Built WITHOUT your tax dollars!!
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06-27-2011, 07:28 AM
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#16
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 28,511
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I have a little different take on this. BucksMom said the GFI was tripping and that is rarely a problem with the campground supply. A GFI is a safety device that detects a problem in the load side of the circuit, in other words in the RV that is plugged into the GFI outlet. I'll bet that plugging the RV into any other GFI outlet would havethe same result. BucksMom needs to get the RV checked out and the electrical problem resolved. The likely culprits are a defective heater element in the fridge or an improperly wired converter/charger (neutral and ground bonded together).
That said, it is unwise to use a no-ground plug to bypass a tripping GFI. That merely covers up a problem that could be serious.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is now West Palm Beach, FL
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06-27-2011, 07:40 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,159
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I would not get a warm fuzzy from checking with a meter before I hooked and all was ok. The electical supply can and will change as more hook up to the electric ,the voltage will drop. One of these Progressive Industries
will check several things about the power before it will allow the power to the coach and then will continually check the power and if the power is not in specs it will cut it off to the coach. I can be a pain nut it will protect you coach for power issues.
__________________
John and Pam
NKK 16073L
2015 London Aire
2015 GMC Seirra
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06-27-2011, 07:46 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: McKinney, TX...For Now
Posts: 253
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06-28-2011, 02:09 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Hammond, IN
Posts: 353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer
I have a little different take on this. BucksMom said the GFI was tripping and that is rarely a problem with the campground supply. A GFI is a safety device that detects a problem in the load side of the circuit, in other words in the RV that is plugged into the GFI outlet. I'll bet that plugging the RV into any other GFI outlet would havethe same result. BucksMom needs to get the RV checked out and the electrical problem resolved. The likely culprits are a defective heater element in the fridge or an improperly wired converter/charger (neutral and ground bonded together).
That said, it is unwise to use a no-ground plug to bypass a tripping GFI. That merely covers up a problem that could be serious.
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Unless I misunderstood the OP, when she hooked up elsewhere, "Everything ran beautifully".. Doesn't sound like her MH is at fault...
__________________
1982 CrossCountry - NW Indiana
Ford Electrician
Built WITHOUT your tax dollars!!
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06-28-2011, 06:55 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 32,253
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FWIW, removing the ground prong from a plug is a prohibited, per NEC. I would make a written report to the property manager. This sounds like the CG has their neutral and ground tied together at some point.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;GS Life member,FMCA " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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06-28-2011, 08:50 PM
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#21
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 28,511
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She did not say if she plugged into a GFCI outlet elsewhere - the problem would not show up on a standard outlet.
The GFCI on the power post won't trip if something upstream from it in the campground has the neutral and ground shorted - the problem has to be downstream from the GFCI. That pretty much leaves only the RV.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is now West Palm Beach, FL
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06-29-2011, 07:01 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickO
I think "surge protector" has been used as a generic term to reference devices which really provide a much more comprehensive set of features than simply protecting against surges. These include low voltage.
rick
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Ditto, most folks we know refer to them that way. We use the pictured EMS PT50C which makes all the necessary checks and then monitors voltage 24x7.
Bob
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2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E
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06-29-2011, 07:33 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Somewhere in the woods in Belfair, WA, WA
Posts: 1,250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_N_Terry
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I like the idea of the portable unit, but how does one keep this thing from developing leg and walking off ??!
__________________
Life rocks when your house rolls
Senior Chief & the Cheese Queen
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06-29-2011, 07:41 AM
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#24
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
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I prefer to call them EMS systems versus Surge Guard's.
A true surge guard provides for only one single function, itwill absorb an electrical surge into the internal MOV's.
An EMS system usually offers multiple functions such as the ever popular Progressive EMS which checks the power pedestal for a variety of faults before transferring power to the coach and provides for surge protection. A similar system built by TRC offers other functions besides surge protection. Another EMS system is the Intellitec EMS which when the coach is hooked to anything other than 50 amp service, 30, 20, 15, it will determine how many amps are available to use and will shed device's inside the coach that are usually used less frequently thereby not going over the total number of amps provided by the shore power. This EMS system does NOT provide any surge protection.
Then there are voltage boosters and autoformers that do not check any electrical functions of the power coming from the pedestal to the coach. However, they will take any low voltage situation that is present at the pedestal and increase it by using an internal transformer such that it will allow you to run appliances and other devices inside the coach. Others that do not have this device will most likely end up ruining some of their sensitive equipment and not even know it until much later. Or if they happen to have one of the previously mentioned Progressive or TRC EMS systems, it will shut off power to the coach. In that respect, they will be protected and not ruin any devices but will be without power until it is above the threshold once again. If you happen to be in extremely hot weather with both A/C's running and this situation happens which is most likely when everyone has their A/C's running and drawing a lot of power, it will make the difference between staying cool or baking in the hot sun without power.
If I happen to be assigned a site where the power pedestal is crap and causes problems detected by my Progressive EMS, I will always ask for a different site. It's my coach and my home electrical systems. If they can't provide one for me, then it's off to somewhere else.
Only my opinion.
Dr4Film ----- Richard.
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06-29-2011, 12:16 PM
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#25
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 28,511
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Quote:
but how does one keep this thing from developing leg and walking off ??!
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That metal thingie around the cable is for a padlock and chain. Just what you chain it too may take some creative thinking, though.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is now West Palm Beach, FL
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06-30-2011, 07:25 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Nor'easters Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 446
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Gary Et Al,
To prevent a mysterious disappearance of a portable surge protector, can the surge protector be plugged directly into the RV in the electrical compartment and then the 50 amp cord plugged into the device? Then the compartment can be locked with the device tucked away inside?
Faith
__________________
Faith and Bob, Bitsy the Papillon and Bosco the Chi-weenie....RIP Truffles
2005 Revolution LE - 2008 Honda CRV Toad
Northern Massachusetts and the rest of the Country.
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06-30-2011, 07:37 AM
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#27
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Administrator in Memoriam
Newmar Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's Spartan Chassis
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 25,898
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Most 50amp cords are hard wired, but if yours is not, you could do as you ask.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fansill
Gary Et Al,
To prevent a mysterious disappearance of a portable surge protector, can the surge protector be plugged directly into the RV in the electrical compartment and then the 50 amp cord plugged into the device? Then the compartment can be locked with the device tucked away inside?
Faith
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__________________
Adios, Dirk - '84 Real Lite Truck Camper, '86 Wilderness Cimarron TT, previously 4 years as a fulltimer in a '07 DSDP

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06-30-2011, 09:01 AM
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#28
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, Arizona
Posts: 10,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fansill
Gary Et Al,
To prevent a mysterious disappearance of a portable surge protector, can the surge protector be plugged directly into the RV in the electrical compartment and then the 50 amp cord plugged into the device? Then the compartment can be locked with the device tucked away inside?
Faith
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You can buy a version of the surge protector designed to be hard wired and mounted in your electrical bay. This is what we did and it's out of sight and out of mind.
Rick
__________________
Rick, Nancy, Peanut & Lola our Westie Dogs & Bailey the Sheltie.
2007 Itasca Ellipse 40FD
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