Community Forums

kctrading · 09-24-2020, 12:23 PM

I have heard that floating floors can get gaps in between the planks from expansion from the going from cold to hot. Also we live in our RV full-time so there will be a lot of foot traffic.

Saw one guy on YouTube use the Roberts 2057 clear adhesive so as to slow down this process... it still will give but not as much as the adhesive is not permanent but flexable (tile is applied after it has dried and the glue is tacky).

Note: Underlayment is pre-attached to the plank flooring.

Pros: Because it is tacky tile can still be pulled up and reapplied. It would also make it easier to fix a damaged tile in the future as it could be cut out without disturbing the other tiles.

Cons: ?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficM...6X36/312650275

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-...57-1/100144842

Appreciate any feedback on this. Someone who's been there done that would be great to hear from : )

Today we are prepping and leveling the floor... hope to install the tiles tomorrow : )

Airboss68 · 09-24-2020, 12:44 PM

Quote:

I have heard that floating floors can get gaps in between the planks from expansion from the going from cold to hot. Also we live in our RV full-time so there will be a lot of foot traffic.

The entire floor should expand and contract at the same rate, thus should not create gaps if left floating.

Gluing down a floating floor, in my opinion is asking for humps and bumps as well as gaps when it expands and contracts no matter how pliable or elastic the glue.

I just finished replacing my carpet with a floating floor. Left it floating and left a 1/4" gap around the perimeter for expansion.

We too live in our unit full time. Time will tell which is the right option bu the purpose of "floating is to avoid the problems associated with expansion and contraction.

Bob_C · 09-24-2020, 02:25 PM

You can use a moulding to cover up the 1/4" gaps......

arcaguy · 09-24-2020, 02:45 PM

I have floating snap together vinyl in 6 apartments. I installed it about 3 years ago and have not had any issues to date for the floors that I installed. One I had a contractor install has some separation issues but I'm certain it was due to improper installation. In my experience don't leave to much of a gap at the edges and you must use some type of shoe molding or quarter round on the edges as that is what keeps the floor down. As long as your joints are tight when you put the flooring down I think you will be fine. You also need to make sure that your floor is completely smooth. The slightest imperfection will show up in the flooring in short order. Good luck.

TMyers17 · 09-24-2020, 02:56 PM

Problems arise when there is extreme temperature changes where campers are stored during the winter and hot summers. Most manufacturers will have a temperature variance listed on the box.

If you are full timing, you’ll be fine since you are controlling the temperature.

Don’t use any adhesive. Floating floors should float.

kctrading · 09-25-2020, 06:05 PM

Ok, so no glue will be used. I've got it prepped ready to install. No staples, filled in the low spots, etc.

No where do I start and what pattern do I use? We stack all the lookalike planks in 5 piles and there are inside the rv at room temp (90f)

One friend said to start at the front left corner behind the drivers seat....we want to run it from front to back put not sure on the pattern.

Thanks guys!

MSchu · 09-25-2020, 07:06 PM

A random pattern would be best, when you cut the last piece in a run you use it as the first piece in the next run. If the seams end up too close cut the starter piece shorter or use a new piece. If you try to do a fancy pattern, you would end up with a lot of waste from the cuts.
If you can wait until its cooler, it might be better. If you install at 90 degrees the floor will shrink a lot when its 0 degrees out.

kctrading · 09-25-2020, 08:19 PM

Good to know. Were installing it tomorrow...I'll leave the AC on

Bobby F · 09-25-2020, 08:26 PM

Leave the 1/4" gap around the outside as per the directions, and then fill that gap in with a thick bead of clear silicone. It will seal against wet stuff getting in under the flooring, and it will be elastic enough to take up expansion (while also exerting a force compressing the flooring so as to avoid gaps forming in the interior.)

capnqball · 09-25-2020, 08:46 PM

You should measure the width of your floor to ensure you don't end up with the last row ending in a sliver of a full piece (speaking of widthwise). Split the difference between the first row and the last row. Do these measurements to check also where the bathroom (for instance, as I don't know your floor plan) comes into play. You may have to juggle some widths. Pre measurements can save some headache later.

TMyers17 · 09-25-2020, 09:16 PM

Start with a whole piece and finish that run to the wall. The piece you cut off the end of the first row will start the second row and so on. This will keep a random pattern and keep your waste down. The floor will want to move around so cut some 1/4” spacers and put them at the walls.

As a rule, we don’t let joints hit closer than 6” from the run next to it.

Airboss68 · 09-26-2020, 11:40 AM

You have already done the hardest and most important part, preparation.

Pattern and starting point ar individual decisions.

Now measure, measure, measure, and take your time.

All of the above make good points, I think those quoted below are really cogent.

Quote:

Leave the 1/4" gap around the outside as per the directions, and then fill that gap in with a thick bead of clear silicone. It will seal against wet stuff getting in under the flooring, and it will be elastic enough to take up expansion (while also exerting a force compressing the flooring so as to avoid gaps forming in the interior.)

If you can wait until its cooler, it might be better. If you install at 90 degrees the floor will shrink a lot when its 0 degrees out.

You should measure the width of your floor to ensure you don't end up with the last row ending in a sliver of a full piece (speaking of widthwise). Split the difference between the first row and the last row. Do these measurements to check also where the bathroom (for instance, as I don't know your floor plan) comes into play. You may have to juggle some widths. Pre measurements can save some headache later.

Good look and when done we want pictures.

Bowtie Jim · 09-26-2020, 12:50 PM

I was going to use vinyl plank flooring in my TT to replace the original linoleum.
I decided not to because of the huge temperature swing here in Minnesota. Inside a closed up TT on a 90° day it could easily be 115+ . Just the opposite in winter could be -30°. I was afraid I'd open the door on a 90° day and see the flooring all buckled.
I used some cheap laminate flooring and left a 3/8" gap around the perimeter. It's survived the summer so I'm happy.

shootist · 09-26-2020, 06:21 PM

I glue them down in my rentals, but so cal has moderate temp swings and the concrete slabs really moderate the floor temp. Love them glued down, totally waterproof, no slapping noise when you walk on them. Not sure about how they would act in a motorhome but with some of the slightly expanding glues they use for hardwood on slabs I don't think you could ever get them up.