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JimInAlabama · 02-01-2025, 08:35 PM

I've tried searching every way I know how and can't find the answer. They both have a regular chuck threaded onto the high pressure hose but no idea what threads. They both have preset/auto shutoff. Has anybody adapted a quick connect to be able to blow out the water lines?

I like that the ViAir EVC88P has battery clamps. The thing I like about Dewalt is that I have batteries already, don't like the fact that it uses lighter plug.

High Road Travelers · 02-01-2025, 09:01 PM

If either one has a pressure regulator on the air line they should be able to handle it fine. You may can buy a pressure regulator that will fit if they don't have one.
I have a regulator on mine and set it to 30 psi since I have a "continuous hot water heater" and it will not take much pressure.
Thanks,

NXR · 02-01-2025, 09:23 PM

Depends. I have a Viair 450P-RVS with their winterization kit. It will remove the majority of the water but I'd never use it for winterization because it doesn't have enough CFMs, cubic feet per minute of air movement.

The pressure isn't everything because the compressor needs to be able to sustain that pressure and my Viair will not. The pressure with all faucets closed is 30 PSI but open a faucet and it drops very low. It'll spurt water out but it never clears it all out. I get a fine mist forever. If I close the faucet and open it a burst of water comes out and then it goes back to a mist.

Ray

JimInAlabama · 02-01-2025, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NXR

Depends. I have a Viair 450P-RVS with their winterization kit. It will remove the majority of the water but I'd never use it for winterization because it doesn't have enough CFMs, cubic feet per minute of air movement.

The pressure isn't everything because the compressor needs to be able to sustain that pressure and my Viair will not. The pressure with all faucets closed is 30 PSI but open a faucet and it drops very low. It'll spurt water out but it never clears it all out. I get a fine mist forever. If I close the faucet and open it a burst of water comes out and then it goes back to a mist.

Ray

I have an older Husky compressor that's considered portable but not portable enough to take in the camper. This was our first winterization of our 5th wheel and used the Husky to blow out the lines but also used antifreeze. Actually I wonder why it's even necessary to blow out the lines, why not just siphon in the antifreeze??

**hamm2018** · 02-02-2025, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimInAlabama

I have an older Husky compressor that's considered portable but not portable enough to take in the camper. This was our first winterization of our 5th wheel and used the Husky to blow out the lines but also used antifreeze. Actually I wonder why it's even necessary to blow out the lines, why not just siphon in the antifreeze??

If you are using the anti-freeze, you do not need to blow out the lines prior. I never did blow out the lines, just used the anti-freeze.

Gravelette · 02-02-2025, 05:53 AM

The city water inlet may not be protected if you just suck in the pink stuff. There is a check valve but I don't know if it's actually subject to freezing damage.

MORSNO · 02-02-2025, 07:19 AM

Those small tankless compressors do not have enough air volume to blow out the lines, you need volume not pressure. And as others have said, there is no need to blow out the lines, just use a gallon or two of antifreeze and be done with it. Blowing out the lines does not get the water out of the pump and check valve assembly, you'll need antifreeze anyway.

SafariBen · 02-02-2025, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimInAlabama

... Actually I wonder why it's even necessary to blow out the lines, why not just siphon in the antifreeze??

That's one of the great RV debates. Some only blow out the lines, some blow out to use less antifreeze, some blow out to be extra sure the antifreeze is full strength.

Using a small compressor without a tank isn't as effective as a larger one OR one with a tank, but if you're using antifreeze after then it hardly matters.

IF you WANT to blow out better, you could rig up a tank with a valve to give surges of air, but that's getting to be the kind of thing an RVer would do...

twinboat · 02-02-2025, 07:25 AM

If that's what you have, get an auxiliary air tank to fill, they you'll have the volume of air needed.

Something like this.

glwinger · 02-02-2025, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gravelette

The city water inlet may not be protected if you just suck in the pink stuff. There is a check valve but I don't know if it's actually subject to freezing damage.

Simple, just press on the check valve when pumping the A/F. This is the last thing I do when winterizing. Just cover it with a towel first or you will get a pink shower.

glwinger · 02-02-2025, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

If that's what you have, get an auxiliary air tank to fill, they you'll have the volume of air needed.

Something like this.

The problem with that is you will have full tank pressure, probably 125PSI, initially going into the lines. The water system may not be able to handle that pressure.

And it will run out of air before the system is completely flushed. 5 gallons of air is not much.

Persistent · 02-02-2025, 09:03 AM

I just bought a Craftsmen 1 gallon with 0.8 CFM. The 0.8 CFM at 90 lb is insufficient. It only works from the 1 gallon tank. When that is gone, I must wait for it to re-pressurize.

My problem is it was the biggest one that would still fit in an available storage compartment to take it on the road. I still had to remove the rubber feet to get it in.

I just bought a new trailer. The manual insists the lines be blown out. RV antifreeze may be added after the blow out. The manual does not recommend just using antifreeze.

I never blew out my Kodiak Cub. I just used antifreeze. However, my new AS Trade Wind has a recirculating on-demand water heater with complex valving and additional pump.

I don't trust my own engineering skill to make an informed decision to eliminate the blow out. Risk and cost of failure is too high.

inthepines · 02-02-2025, 09:24 AM

My kobalt standup can barely do the job, it's 20 gallon.
I have to stop and let it catch up and since it isn't rated for constant duty it needs time to rest as well. I set my pressure to 35-40 psi.

my other compressor does a better job since it is constant duty rated and recharges way quicker. (only 4 gallon tank as well)

can they do it? if you have all day.

glwinger · 02-02-2025, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inthepines

My kobalt standup can barely do the job, it's 20 gallon.
I have to stop and let it catch up and since it isn't rated for constant duty it needs time to rest as well. I set my pressure to 35-40 psi.

my other compressor does a better job since it is constant duty rated and recharges way quicker. (only 4 gallon tank as well)

can they do it? if you have all day.

That's one of the problems with the oiless, vibrating type pumps. Recovery is very slow. The pump itself is not capable of producing enough cfm to quickly fill the tank. My old Craftsman 27 gallon dual cylinder compressor will provide almost constant 70 PSI at 6.0 cfm.