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01-17-2018, 05:22 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
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Thanks Jay, I'm just looking at my 3-0 AWG battery cables, and the shunt and the shut sure looks inadequate.
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
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01-18-2018, 06:48 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet
Thanks Jay, I'm just looking at my 3-0 AWG battery cables, and the shunt and the shut sure looks inadequate.
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There are 500A shunts available; see the one at this link.
You might want to consider buying a Trimetric, Victron or Magnum battery monitor and shunt, rather than the less-expensive ones.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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01-18-2018, 07:10 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
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We don't dry camp much and I just wanted a cheap battery monitor to let me know current usage on the rare occasion we do dry camp. I had a Victron monitor on my boat on which we anchored out a lot. It's a good monitor and served it's purpose well, but not cheap.
Below is a picture of the shunt next to a battery cable (3-0 AWG) in my coach.
The 2 little bars running between the two terminals on the shunt must pass the same current as the cable.
I might post this picture on a new thread to get a wider audience and see what they think as to the shuts suitability.
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
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01-18-2018, 10:20 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
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I just found out the same unit comes with a 300 amp shunt. The 300 amp shunt looks the same but with 4 small bars between the terminals instead of 2.
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
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01-18-2018, 01:30 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 124
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Yes, that is a very stark comparison. My cables are much smaller. The 300 amp capability should serve you better. In my case, I was primarily concerned with my 1K Watt continuous duty inverter as a limit.
__________________
Jay: Retired - Home Base: NEOhio
MH: 1998 Winnebago Chieftan 36WL-P - Freightliner XC, Cummins 5.9L 24V ISB
Toad: Chevy Cruze via Dolly
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01-19-2018, 06:28 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Central Vermont
Posts: 1,485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet
I just found out the same unit comes with a 300 amp shunt. The 300 amp shunt looks the same but with 4 small bars between the terminals instead of 2.
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Where did you find it?
__________________
2015 F350 XLT PSD CCSB SRW, Andersen Ultimate hitch
'12 Cougar High Country 299RKS, Mor/Ryde Pinbox
1/77 Armor Bn, 5th Mech, I Corps
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01-19-2018, 06:39 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Central Vermont
Posts: 1,485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1
There are 500A shunts available; see the one at this link.
You might want to consider buying a Trimetric, Victron or Magnum battery monitor and shunt, rather than the less-expensive ones.
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I've considered a Trimetric for years, but the price has held me back. Maybe for the next unit. Meanwhile the cheap ones have my attention for my 7 year old fiver.
__________________
2015 F350 XLT PSD CCSB SRW, Andersen Ultimate hitch
'12 Cougar High Country 299RKS, Mor/Ryde Pinbox
1/77 Armor Bn, 5th Mech, I Corps
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01-19-2018, 07:14 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
Where did you find it?
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
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01-19-2018, 07:27 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet
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Your RV will never draw more than 50 amps will it?
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01-19-2018, 06:02 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentB
Your RV will never draw more than 50 amps will it?
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Well the inverter is protected by a 300 amp fuse, so I'm assuming it does.
2 things to consider, a 50 amp camp ground power pole is really providing 100 amps of AC current, 50 amps at L1 and 50 amps at L2 for a total of 100 amps and 12000 watts.
Also we are talking about DC current. It only takes 3600 watts to get to 300 amps when using 12 volt DC. Many microwave's use 1800 watts when running, half way to the 300 amp fuse.
At least as I understand it.
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
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01-26-2018, 01:51 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvjackson
The DROK includes the shunt. I selected the 100A unit to be able to account for the power consumption of my smallish inverter.
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Jay, I'm having some trouble getting my DROK unit to work. I ordered the 300 amp shunt. I connected the shunt with the terminal that has a small black wire connected to it, I connected this terminal to the battery. I connected the other terminal with a small red wire attached to the load.
I then connected a wire with 12v positive to the red wire on the pig tail supplied with the unit that plugs into the display. I connected another 12v positive wire to the Vn+ terminal on the shunt. I connected the USB cable supplied with the unit to the shunt and the display.
The display works but I get 0 readings on everything. I disconnected the Vn+ wire and the display still works but no values except 0. If I disconnect the 12v going to the display, the display blanks.
Any help on getting this working is much appreciated.
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
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01-26-2018, 02:49 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet
I then connected a wire with 12v positive to the red wire on the pig tail supplied with the unit that plugs into the display.
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Everything makes sense to me except the above statement, as, the USB connection supplies 5v and ground to the display from the shunt, and, 12v should only be connected to Vn+.
Maybe I'm missing/misunderstanding something.
__________________
Jay: Retired - Home Base: NEOhio
MH: 1998 Winnebago Chieftan 36WL-P - Freightliner XC, Cummins 5.9L 24V ISB
Toad: Chevy Cruze via Dolly
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01-27-2018, 03:14 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
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Thanks Jay, I hooked it up as you said and it appears the unit is not getting data from the shunt.
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
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01-27-2018, 09:19 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet
Jay, I'm having some trouble getting my DROK unit to work. I ordered the 300 amp shunt. I connected the shunt with the terminal that has a small black wire connected to it, I connected this terminal to the battery. I connected the other terminal with a small red wire attached to the load.
I then connected a wire with 12v positive to the red wire on the pig tail supplied with the unit that plugs into the display. I connected another 12v positive wire to the Vn+ terminal on the shunt. I connected the USB cable supplied with the unit to the shunt and the display.
The display works but I get 0 readings on everything. I disconnected the Vn+ wire and the display still works but no values except 0. If I disconnect the 12v going to the display, the display blanks.
Any help on getting this working is much appreciated.
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Unless I'm missing it, you didn't mention what you did with your negative cables. You should attach the negative cable from your RV to the large stud on the opposite end of the shunt away from the end with all the small screws. Then you have to supply another large cable to run from the other large stud to the negative post on your battery. (I hope I'm explaining this clearly enough.) Did you do that? I also found that the usb connection to the shunt is rather loose. Sometimes moving the cable slightly will cause the numbers to appear/disappear.
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