Community Forums

boatman10 · 07-25-2018, 01:23 PM

i have a 24' workhorse class a......I've done absolutely everything I can to make it drive stably and it does real well in no or low wind conditions.....1000% better than when I bought it.

tire pressures right, aligned to Brasil's cheat sheet [the most improvement was this....], safe-t-steer, correct ride height, new springs in front, shocks, tight steering box, all tight links, new bell crank...EVERYTHING

but its still somewhat tiring to drive.......I understand its a light, square box going down the road.......heavier class a's I'm sure track better.

I've never drove a class c......do they track better per the somewhat less-square leading profile?

comparison #2-------also I'm thinking the engine being out front behind a firewall in a class c must be better for less heat transfer.......my 8.1L puts ALOT of heat in the cab....both the dash air and roof [13.5KBTU]air are in top operating shape......just sitting in the sun on a 100 degree day, the roof air can cool it down to 65 degrees! no problem!!

but driving [60mph] down the road the engine heat, road n tire heat are such that 85deg is the best it will do [both ACs running] in the front of the MH.

I have put extra insulation all around the engine area and there are NO firewall air leaks.

So do short gasser class c's have these two issues also?

genesimmons · 07-25-2018, 02:21 PM

Just go look at class c that you like and test drive them and see how they compare

nothermark · 07-25-2018, 02:32 PM

C's are not as bad because you sit a bit lower and possibly farther back from the front axle. Both of those things decrease how much the driver moves in relation to box sway.

C's have some issues with heat from the doghouse that can be addressed with added insulation. They also can have a less desirable seating position. You have to try them. I don't have a problem but some folks do.

grumpy0374 · 07-25-2018, 05:37 PM

Many Ford E-450 need a front alignment, preferably using aftermarket adjustable camber bushings. As the cut a way comes from the factory, it ok. But then add a long, heavy box on the back, and suddenly the front end becomes loose and "squirilly". Also, the OE steering stabalizer leaves something to be desired. Both easily remedied.
Seat position and comfort is relative to the person. Other than having to raise our seats, we find them ok.
Heat from the doghouse can be a problem, but can easily be taken care of with some extra insulation. Did that to ours years ago, and no problem now.
Have driven some 30-32 footer class a to test drive, and our E-450 based 28 foot class c is much easier to drive. Have driven it across the US and earlier this year drove thru Mo, Ks, Ok, Tx, thru some hellacious winds, and always felt in control.
As posted, just pick out a model that you may be interested in and test drive it. Having driven/owned a class a you should be able to make a determination of what works for you.
Grumpy

Isaac-1 · 07-25-2018, 10:16 PM

I note that you do not have a Track Bar, this is probably the number one suspension modification that people list as improving performance in cross winds. I can't say though from first hand experience as my 28 ft 2002 P32 Safari Trek already had one installed when I bought it. In the case of my coach after also adding rear Sumo Springs and Koni FSD shocks I find it reasonably comfortable to drive in cross winds up to about 20 mph, over 20 mph and I try to limit my daily driving distance due to fatigue, over 30 and I find a place to pull off the road immediately.

p.s. mine has a 178 inch wheel base, I suspect yours is on the 154 inch P32 chassis

boatman10 · 07-27-2018, 05:33 AM

i appreciate your reply.

thats about what i experience, ok to 20mph wind, jumpy to 30 n a handful over 30.

i have done experiments with passing semi's and the rear is very stable...it's definitely the front that has issues with wind, the worst being a quartering headwind.

having such a relatively short rear overhang and with the info from my experiments, i do not think a track bar will help much.

i guess its just the nature of the beast....a "light" short rig with the same front area to the wind as a heavier longer rig.

now the engine heat factor has to be different in a class c both on cab heat when running and residual heat after stopping...since they have an engine and road and tire heat on the other side of a firewall instead of a floor n doghouse AROUND all that heat........really only an issue for me tho above 90 degrees and going INTO the sun [coming thru windshield]....white towels on the dash really help the sun thru windshield deal.

i guess all i can do is EVEN MORE insulation around the motor area......wire up the twin 16" AC condensor fans so i can turn them on for 30 mins AFTER i stop.

Also i will try a temporary duct to bring all the cool air from the roof AC forward.....it'd be just in the summer n collapsible n easily removed.

Any other ideas from anyone appreciated.

Teamfoxy · 07-29-2018, 07:10 AM

We have never driven a Class A, but my wife could not reach the pedals in most of the ones we looked at. She has no problem driving the Ford E350. We find that the dashboard AC cools the entire coach pretty well even in the 90 degree weather we had a few weeks ago.
I do not notice any heat from the doghouse on the driver's side, but it does get warm on the passenger side and its hard not to have your legs touch it. Not so bad that I feel compelled to do anything about it.
We bought it used and the previous owner probably took care of the steering issues. There is a steering damper on it, and we do not have any drifting issues that other people mention. I'm 6 feet tall and am OK with the leg room.