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Old 04-15-2006, 05:28 PM   #15
Join Date: Jul 2003
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I have a 27 foot class C, so my job is easier than most, but in 7 years it still looks like it is on the showroom floor! And we use it a lot, having slept 750 nights in it in 7 1/2 years!

I use sealant glaze for the sides, which is super easy to apply and easier to buff off. I have never had to polish the sides.

On the front and back end, I need to do things differently. I think this is because the air stream is harder on waxes and sealants on the end as opposed to the sides. Up until now, I always used a hard non-abrasive carnauba, and a polishing with an orbital polisher when needed (maybe every third year). I got tired of waxing and so now I am experimenting to see how long a sealant will last, and maybe accepting several sealant applications.

On the front, because of the (recent apparent) increase in bugs, I use sealant on the cabover (because after every trip I have to remove bugs which also removes wax), so it gets a new coat every trip. On the hood I use a specially-made carnauba wax from Malm's. It lasts a full year (or better - I just redo it every year). Again sometimes the front needs polishing, but I use only the finest grit polish I can buy.

It takes longer to describe than to do. I normally do the rig in less than 2 hours total.

Happy Trails

Gus Weber
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Old 04-15-2006, 07:50 PM   #16
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I just did my 37' coach... I used Protect All. Great stuff - a little goes along way. I use to take 2 days the old way... Now about 3 hrs. Use micro fiber clothes.
AKA - Oemy
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:09 PM   #17
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We keep our's in garage when not in use, Wash 3 or 4 time's a year and use protect-all on side's and back once a year, do front after ever wash and rain-x windshield. Also purchased a 12 ft extention paint roller pole to put wash brush on, makes washing a lot easier. Got pole at lowe's
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Old 04-19-2006, 07:16 PM   #18
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I use Nu Finish and I am doing it tomorrow it goes on and off easy. You can get it at Wal Mart. It is made for fiberglass as well as cars.
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Old 04-23-2006, 05:15 AM   #19
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I also use Nu Finish and am pleased with the results. I try to do the unit twice a year, spring & fall. It's a lot of work but as previously mentioned, put the radio on and enjoy a few cold ones it is a labour or love.
2006 Itasca Suncruiser 38T
W24 Chassis.
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Old 04-24-2006, 03:34 PM   #20
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I use Protectal on the coach and the truck; takes about 8 hrs to do a thourough wash and wax with it....does glass as well!

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Old 04-28-2006, 03:45 AM   #21
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It is a job, but when done looks mighty fine! We us ProtectAll a couple times of year. I have used Gel Gloss and like that too. I do use Gel Gloss in the shower. sinks and stove top...really gives a nice new shine.
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Old 04-28-2006, 11:28 AM   #22
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A New(er) Product:

Turtle Wax "Ice"...

Goes on clear, stays clear, no white, powdery
junk left behind (down in the cracks)...

We have white, gel-coat, and you need to compound it first, maybe a 3-ft square area.
Go back right away and seal it with the Ice
Sealant. You can do a part now and a part later.

Try it--you'll like it.
Steady Eddie/1999 KSCA 3357/P12 Chassis/454 Vortec L-21

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Old 03-11-2007, 12:33 PM   #23
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Took a while but I just took your advice. Turtle "ICE" is great stuff, especially for us dinosaurs with decals. You can wipe right over them and NO WHITE

Did get a lecture from one of the kids on prep, knuckled under and used a Clay Bar (buy the kit at Auto Zone < 15 bucks) on the hard just a little time consuming but much nicer results. Also the "Detailer" that came with the Clay Bar is great on the front between washes/waxes.

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Old 03-13-2007, 05:27 PM   #24
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When I first started tech school ,way back The instructer told us that before you buy a vehicle you should take it to a car wash and manualy scrub it down this is done so you look the car over as you scrub it The same can be said for a hand wax or a machine buff job Now when I wash my camper (30 footer) I use an automotive wash and wax product they work pretty well and don't require any buffing It does look better if you dri it as you rince so it doesn't waterspot

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Old 03-15-2007, 06:54 AM   #25
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I used Adams polish and butter wax on my toad. I used a Porter Cable buffer. Result was awesome!

As soon as my concrete pad gets done (starts on Monday the 19th) and I get my coach home, I intend to clay bar it and then use the Adams Butter Wax. As Adams says - "The color will POP" - and it does!!

I have been a huge fan of Zaino for years, and depending on how long the Adams lasts, I may consider changing from the Zaino paint sealant on a permanent basis.
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:27 PM   #26
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I do the MH about 4 times a year, always while we are camping, one section at a time. The front gets done about 8 times a year....we drive a lot. I'm presently using Meguire's NXT. It does a good job. Until now I have done it all by hand, but my shoulders are wearing out I've clayed the cargo doors but need to get the rest done.

Gordon wrote;<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I have been a huge fan of Zaino for years </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I use Zaino on our toad, and have contemplated using it on the MH. But I think I'm going to try Gordon's method. Buy a Porter Cable, the pads and try Adams Wax. At the worst, my shoulders won't hurt .
Tom, Patty, Hannah "The Big Dog" and Abby Kat, Indianapolis, Indiana 2000 Alpine 36' FDS 72232, 2005 Blue Bird M450 LXI Our Photos
"We live out in our old van. Travel all across this land. Drive until the city lights dissolve into a country sky, just me and you - hand in hand." Zac Brown Band
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