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Old 07-04-2021, 04:10 PM   #1
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Question Did a long extension cord really kill my freon?

I am in my first year if TT ownership (2006 Fleetwood Wilderness) and am still learning all the dos, don'ts, and what the previous owner failed to take care (e.g., 36 gallons of black tank draining). I've solved all but 3 of my problems, the worst of which is my rooftop AC not blowing cold. While we've parked "Reputa" in our driveway, we have plugged into our 200amp house power vis a 50 ft. extension cord. For about three weeks in May and June, we ran the AC in Reputa without a problem - air was nice and cold, place chilled up quickly and well. Then, one 90-degree day when the traveling RV mechanic was here, the air just never got cold. Mechanic said it was bc inside air was too hot so try it on a cooler day. Tried that night as well as the morning after a 59-degree night: still no cold air. Then I called an RV repair shop in NH and he told me I probably killed the freon by using a long cord; said I should test it at the campsite I was going to while plugged into shore power directly. That didnt work either. :(

So, my question is why would a long cord burn the freon as opposed to the motor? (When I once plugged a power washer into a long cord I burned out the motor). Is there really no option but to replace the whole AC unit? I've heard that I can't get the freon recharged bc it's a closed system. Finally, if I do end up having to get a new unit, does anyone have insight into what kind I should get? Reputa is in good shape, but I don't think she's worth investing new tech into because of her age.

Thank you!!
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:29 PM   #2
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Using a long cord won’t do anything to the freon. What it will do is burn up the compressor motor, just like the pressure washer motor. So when you try to run your AC, listen for the compressor kicking on? is it coming on or is just the fan running? That’s what you need to determine.

As for being a sealed system, yes it is and almost no AC guy will go to the trouble of charging an RV AC. But it can be done by a competent AC tech who doesn’t mind working a bit and doing small jobs - admittedly a rare combination.

Since 99.999% of AC techs won’t work on it, whether it’s to recharge it or replaced the compressor (also possible but rarely done) you’ll probably have to replace it, which isn’t a big deal (although they are heavy and getting them to the roof is a chore) and something you can do yourself. Probably around $600 for a new unit, but it will be more efficient and possibly an upgrade, depending on what you have now.

A couple comments on the information in your post:
1. You have a 200amp service but you probably plugged in to a 15amp outlet. Maybe 20 but that’s it.

2. It doesn’t matter what the inside and outside air temp is - a working air conditioned will still make cool air, but not necessarily enough to cool the inside of the trailer. If you can get 20 degrees difference on a hot day with one AC unit on a trailer you’re doing good. (Do you only have one AC?) Obviously if the unit is working, you’ll have colder air when the outside temp is lower, but that’s not really a useful test.

3.The RV shop guy (Not Big Moose was it?) was clearly not an AC tech but was on the right track with the possibility of the long cord providing insufficient power and burning out the unit - the compressor, not the freon charge, but yes that will do it on an unprotected electrical system.

4. Voltage drop occurs due to a combination of wire size and cord length. Look at the shore cord that came with the unit. That gauge wire, and that length, is generally what you need to supply enough power to run the AC. If you want to extend, you have to use heavier wire to compensate for voltage drop, and you have to be plugged in to a proper power source - probably 30amp for your trailer.

The wire to the outlet you plugged your extension cord in to in your house is probably (hopefully) 12ga but could be 14, and also might be a long way from your panel which means you are starting out with less than the 15-20 amps that outlet is meant to supply.
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:56 PM   #3
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A long extension cord killing the Freon.....That service tech has to be a moron. Follow the lead of the above post and find another Rv tech.

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Old 07-04-2021, 06:35 PM   #4
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Agree with both posts, above. Check operation of compressor before thinking of replacement.

Note also, if you do need a new unit, be sure one is available. There is a definite product shortage for A/C units and has been for several months. Just be prepared.
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Old 07-04-2021, 06:35 PM   #5
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As long as the extension cord is a large enough gauge wire it would not hurt the AC
A small cord does have voltage drop. Check the outlet you are plugged into and see what voltage you have, it may be low to start with.

The fact that you ran the AC unit for 3 weeks tells me the extension cord may not have been a problem.
The AC unit is ~14 years old, it may have been it's time!
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Old 07-04-2021, 06:39 PM   #6
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Its still possable that you blew a start capacitor and not the compressor.

Check that before you toss the whole unit.
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Old 07-04-2021, 08:52 PM   #7
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Is it trying to start the compressor do you hear a hum and any power draw . It will try 3 times and lock out until shut off and restarted. A new run and start cap and it's ptcr is where to start. Look for burnt spade connectors as well.
A hard start capacitor may get you many more years as well. Supco SPP 5 or 6.
Google some vids to find replace start cap. Read Uf # on caps buy a replacements online .
Slim chance but you might find a HVAC guy that does it on the side to diagnose and swap a set of caps and clean coil for you. Ask around if someone has a guy local.
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:00 PM   #8
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I run my motorhome on a 50ft cord every time it's plugged in at my house and use the one a/c unit. This 50ft cord is plugged into the 20ft rv cord via an adapter. I have done this on multiple trailers and motorhomes. Never an issue.

On the refrigerant question- this will not hurt it.
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:06 PM   #9
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I agree with changing out the start capacitor that's a cheap fix. Also look for any burnt connections.
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:34 PM   #10
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The electricity never touches the freon, so no, the power didn't ruin the chemical. What people are saying about wire gauge and length though is very important. You might notice an end of that 50' extension cord feels warm to the touch. That's an indication that you're running a dangerously undersized power cable. For a 20amp travel trailer I had, I used a 14ga, 12' extension cord. If I popped the supply breaker (which I occasionally did), I always had a coffee-cup-warm end on the extension cord from the overload.

I've looked for 50' extension cords in 12ga. They're over a dollar a foot, so they aren't real common. I'll bet yours is 16ga. Good for a weedeater used 15 minutes in an hour, but not so good to power an entire bus, continuously.

I've just been tinkering with my AC (Dometic.) Something that I didn't know going into the problem is that there are two capacitors on my system, one to start the fan and one to run both the fan and the refrigeration. Yours may be similar. If it is, the RUN cap is a dual outlet design. Mine is a 20/10, or 20+10, depending on who wrote the label. It provides one level of jolt to the fan (10MFD) and has a separate set of lugs to connect to the condenser (20MFD). Mine was shorted.

I'm thinking that if you've got one of these dual-run caps it could be shorted, causing the problem. They're relatively cheap, and they live under the big rooftop lid. Installing is a simple matter of KILLING POWER TO THE UNIT, taking the top and a hatch cover off (5/16 nut driver and a phillips), and removing the wires from the capacitor. Mine had 6 wires. Take a picture to be sure you get everyone back home safely. Then use a wire toothbrush and contact cleaner to buff up the wire ends, reconnect to the new cap, and test.

Except for climbing onto the roof, the operation takes less than two beers. While you've got the lid off, clean out the radiator fins (there are several running feet of fins) and the other crud and debris that has collected in the unit, look for indications of leaking and other future problems, and replace the filter. More beer may be required. Then, if the goddess pities all fools like she did me, you're good to go, but better than before, since you got all that smelly stuff out of the airflow, and unclogged fins pass more and colder air.
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Old 07-05-2021, 05:10 PM   #11
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I agree with small/long extension cords causing problems with motors and capacitors but over time, refrigerants can leak from dried o-rings or vibration cracks. If you can’t find anyone else to repair it, see if your local technical college has an hvac program and if the students need practice. May get your a/c repaired cheap and give them valuable experience.
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Old 07-05-2021, 05:21 PM   #12
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Sometimes the compressors go bad. There’s no reason for it. They just go. We had two brand new units go out within a week of each other. No extension cord. No bad power. On the hook both times just sitting there. Turned out that unit had a run of bad compressors. Got new ones under warranty and they ran until we sold it. There’s no boogeyman in the wiring. Stuff happens. If it’s the compressor, move on. They”re sealed and no one will work on them. When we got our new units, the OEM told us to trash the old ones.
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Old 07-05-2021, 05:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBCook View Post
Then I called an RV repair shop in NH and he told me I probably killed the freon by using a long cord...
That may qualify as one of the most stupid "technical diagnosis" ever provided by a (supposed) RV repair professional. It's sad that someone can set himself up as a service technician without having the necessary training..
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Old 07-05-2021, 06:33 PM   #14
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It's already been explained how and why an ordinary extension cord is not suitable for powering a large-draw appliance.
Fool around with this wire size calculator and your extension cord details to see why low voltage burns out the compressor motor. https://www.electricaltechnology.org...alculator.html
Industry-wide standard voltage allowances is 120VAC + or - 10%. Outside those parameters induction motors are slowly ruined with each start-up. It's kinda like someone hitting you on the shoulder, once hurts but many times later your shoulder is disabled.
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