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Old 11-09-2020, 10:24 PM   #1
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 3
Dometic classic 2820 not cooling

Hello everyone, I got a dometic rm2820 fridge 08 model I believe, thats not cooling, it's always been plugged in all summer long running on 110v, it quit at some point, this is 2nd time it has done this, first time I just turned the power off and back on and it fired back up, now it won't do anything, it will lite on lp and still nothing dont get cold I checked all fuses and breakers, is it junk or is there something else that keeps these from working? Thanks in advance
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Old 11-11-2020, 06:43 AM   #2
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,114
There are multiple reasons why a Dometic absorption refer would not work. It has 12 volt, 120 volt, and propane systems. It also has a sealed gas/liquid recirculating system.

The 12 volt system controls the device. If no power, then no cooling or lights regardless of propane or 120 volt choice. A dead house battery, blown fuse, or loose wire could interrupt 12 volt supply.

A bad control board may also show these symptoms. Lights may or may not work.

The sealed gas/liquid system may have leaked. Cooling will will not work. Lights will continue to work as before.

Hopefully Old Biscuit will be along to help you through the trouble shooting. He is the resident expert.
Paul Bristol
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Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:19 PM   #3
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Posts: 16,461
1st thing....
Inspect backside of cooling unit....burner area and under the absorber tank for ANY signs of 'yellowish' residue
IF you see any...STOP/Turn fridge OFF
Do NOT make the residue is toxic
Yellowish Residue means Cooling unit has LEAKED. Residue is the dried form of sodium chromate (rust inhibitor in coolant solution)
Fridge is toast...residue needs to be worked wet to clean it up/no air blowing/vacuuming etc. Wet --wear gloves/masks/eye protection

Cooling unit can have leaked w/o residue ....leak in tubing higher up in vapor section

To see if cooling unit is capable of functioning.
One test is to unplug the thermistor leads from lower circuit board
*Leads are at P2 --- 2 pin connector left side ---2 white leads
Unplug those leads...increase temp set point to '5'
W/O thermistor sensing the fridge controls will run continuously on whichever heat source you have selected (recommend AC if available)
Left fridge run at least 12 hrs then check temps in freezer and food compartment
IF--IF cooling unit is capable of functioning...freezer temps will be 10*F or lower and food compartment temps will be 36*FR or LOWER

Fridge gets cold..........replace thermistor
Snip-The-Tip is easy replacement. Simple rheostat control that you spice onto ends of thermistor leads in food compartment

IF fridge does not cool down then issue could be circuit board
To test '...
Valve out propane to fridge (gas valve has a 'shutoff'---small slotted screw below solenoid. Turn so slot is vertical)
Unplug the AC Power Cord from outlet
Unplug the Electric Element leads from lower circuit board (J7 & J8 Terminals)
Plug the Element leads directly into the outlet
This will energize the element at least 12 hrs will element ON continuously *Bypasses ALL controls)
Fridge will either get COLD or NOT
If it gets COLD....circuit board issue
If it does NOT...cooling unit is Bad...fridge is toast

*Note....cooling unit leak should cause overheating issue which would cause the high temp limit switch on stack to trip
If it tripped you would NOT have any DC to display or be able to operate on LP or AC

Visually inspect for yellowish residue
Unplug thermistor and test for cooling
Wire element lead directly to test for cooling

1 of those three should point you to problem
Is it time for YOUR Medication or Mine?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor & NUWA 5vr
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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cooling, dometic

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