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rynegold · 09-04-2019, 11:45 AM

We have a 2013 Rockwood Ultralite. when we first got it, the fridge wouldn't work and I learned that the little "thermo" (something) that clips to the aluminum cooling blades must be in the upright position to work. I put it there, and it worked! for that trip. Now, a month later, we are gearing up for a small trip and, tried to power up the fridge w/no luck.
Here's what I can say for sure:

(1) the little temp probe thinge IS in the correct upright,high position.

(2) Fridge has power; inside light is on/ 110V (type?) plug in back is hot.

(3) Freezer is working

(4) both (there are only 2 that I can find) glass fuses in the back on the electrical board are good.

(5) the propane part of the equasion is working but; I'm not sure it's working properly. It comes on even w/the trailer plugged into home 110V.

(6) the fridge is set to the "on" / "automatic" position: gas is NOT on yet it is using gas! (apparently).

And alas, not fridge! :-(

Old-Biscuit · 09-04-2019, 12:01 PM

Model would be helpful..........

Just for clarification

Are you saying the 'propane flame' is lighting off with fridge in AUTO and AC available?
(5) the propane part of the equasion is working but; I'm not sure it's working properly. It comes on even w/the trailer plugged into home 110V.
(6) the fridge is set to the "on" / "automatic" position: gas is NOT on yet it is using gas! (apparently).

You stated freezer is cold but fridge isn't and temp probe is Upright???
Freezer cold/food compartment not is classic symptom of an obsructed/blocked cooling unit

But.....
Some basics first.
1) HOW long as fridge been ON?
can take 12+ hrs to effectively cool BOTH compartments down to correct temps
2)Any error codes...upper display panel lights flashing/indications of faults?
3) If fridge has been ON for 12 hrs plus then issue could be thermistor (temp probe in food compartment), circuit board, heat sources/ventilation etc

So need more details.

Dom · 09-04-2019, 12:29 PM

If what Biscuit proves out, you could remove probe from metal. Unit should run as much as possible, and if cooling system is good, should get too cold in fridge compartment

rynegold · 09-04-2019, 01:07 PM

"Are you saying the 'propane flame' is lighting off with fridge in AUTO and AC available?"
Well... I "think" so.... the steel "column" is hot; it's cycling on and off.... the propane that is. And the trailer is "plugged in" to home 110V. I'm at office right now but can look when I get home about the possible obstruction to the fridge part. Let me work on getting some pix up. I took some this morn w/the cover off of the back of the trailer.

Old-Biscuit · 09-04-2019, 01:16 PM

In AUTO propane should only come on when AC Power is lost

Propane cycling on/off........
How quickly is this cycling going on?
Propane should come ON when thermostat calls for heat (to start a cooling cycle) and then go OFF when thermostat temp has been statisfied.
Cycle could be 15-20 minutes ON---45-40 minutes off

Short cycling.......
On/then few minutes later back OFF then immediately back on..etc with controls in AUTO.
Lost of AC..controls swap to GAS.....Gas lights off then AC comes back on/controls swap back to AC/Gas goes off

OR Lost of AC....controls swap to Gas. Gas lights then goes out repeat.
That could be gas flame failure BUT you should get a 'CHECK' light on upper panel and gas doesn't try again until you reset fridge (turn off then back on)

Propane should NOT be coming on IF in AUTO and you have good steady AC Power to Outlet fridge power cord is plugged into and circuit board is not failing.

Obstruction.........
That is an internal blockage in cooling unit between freezer coil and food compartment coil
Allows freezer to be cooled down but not food compartment due to the obstruction INSIDE tubing

SO.......
1) If propane is coming on with controls in AUTO and AC Power Available........then you have AC Problems or Fridge Controls problems
2) IF propane is short cycling could be thermistor issue/thermostat issue/circuit board issue
3) Freezer cold/food compartment NOT...and fridge has been in service for at least 12 hrs could be controls/circuit board/cooling unit

Model and answers to questions.

rynegold · 09-04-2019, 04:28 PM

pics.... I'll get a model # tonite.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/190898...57710695297787

rynegold · 09-04-2019, 06:14 PM

Okay, problem solved... Actually it solved itself. I left this running this morning when I went to work, and tonight the refrigerator part is cold as is the freezer. This morn, I could see and feel the heat from the propane coming on and off, seemingly very short Cycles...) yet I had good constant hundred 110 power to the trailer. As in the famous line from Shakespeare in Love "T' is a mystery!"

rynegold · 09-04-2019, 06:16 PM

And much thanks for the timely replies! I'm amazed at the wealth of info/help on this website!

Ray,IN · 09-04-2019, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rynegold

Okay, problem solved... Actually it solved itself. I left this running this morning when I went to work, and tonight the refrigerator part is cold as is the freezer. This morn, I could see and feel the heat from the propane coming on and off, seemingly very short Cycles...) yet I had good constant hundred 110 power to the trailer. As in the famous line from Shakespeare in Love "T' is a mystery!"

The only way that happens is if the frig controls are set to LP instead of auto.

rynegold · 09-04-2019, 07:03 PM

20190904_185032 | uploaded with Uploader for Flickr for Andr… | rynegold | Flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/19089828@N00/48679955823/in/dateposted/

Maybe I am missing something... To me, the instructions on the Panthers telling me by way of the picture that if the button is pushed in I am NOT on propane, am I wrong about this?

So the picture hosting service I just paid $40 to have for a year isn't letting me cut and paste photos here, suffice to say that I have the gas button pushed IN . And you can see it from that link above, although the picture on the fridge shows the button being "out " and I assumed that that means the gas is on. It's very confusing.

rynegold · 09-04-2019, 07:22 PM

So "if" I have the power button on, and the gas button pushed in... and the auto light is lit (amber-colored by the way)... That there should be NO HEAT at all in the rear of this refrigerator from the gas being used instead of elec.? In other words I should not be feeling anything hot at all? Because I am! I assume that it's gas, is it? Or would that cylindrical upright galvanized steel column be hot anyway? As seen to the right and my picture of the rear of the fridge?

Old-Biscuit · 09-04-2019, 10:06 PM

Turn Fridge ON by depressing the On/Off button DOWN
AUTO Mode is selected by depressing the AUTO/GAS Mode button DOWN
AUTO Light will come on

IF AC Power is available the fridge will heat using the AC Element
IF AC Power is NOT available the fridge will heat using GAS
When AC Power becomes available the fridge will swap back to AC (Priority heat source)

***AUTO Light will stay on regardless of electric or gas operation

Push AUTO/GAS Mode button UP and you have selected GAS Manually
AUTO Light will go out and fridge wiil heat on GAS ONLY (no swapping)

Your picture shows AUTO Light ON (Auto/GAS Mode button Down---Auto Mode)
So if propane is lighting off/cycling and cooling fridge down then AC is NOT Available

OR
Your upper control display board is faulty

OR your lower circuit board is NOT detecting AC Power to Element

Have you checked that the AC Outlet fridge AC Power Cord is plugged into ACTUALLY is working (Hot---120VAC)??
Plug a lamp/fan/drill motor/hair dryer etc into outlet and check that it works
IF it does.......then need to check the 5A Glass Fuse F2 (just above where the AC Power Cord connects to circuit board) that you have AC Voltage on both sides of Fuse
Got Voltage...then need to check if you have AC Voltage to the Element at the leads on circuit board

Propane should ONLY light off if NO AC Power is detected by circuit board
Propane Flame should be visible if you open burner shield

Electric Element GETS HOT....it generates heat that is used just like propane flame to boil the ammonia
'Stack' should feel warm on electric or propane

Ray,IN · 09-05-2019, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rynegold

20190904_185032 | uploaded with Uploader for Flickr for Andr… | rynegold | Flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/19089828@N00/48679955823/in/dateposted/

Maybe I am missing something... To me, the instructions on the Panthers telling me by way of the picture that if the button is pushed in I am NOT on propane, am I wrong about this?

So the picture hosting service I just paid $40 to have for a year isn't letting me cut and paste photos here, suffice to say that I have the gas button pushed IN . And you can see it from that link above, although the picture on the fridge shows the button being "out " and I assumed that that means the gas is on. It's very confusing.

With irv2.com you do not need a picture hosting service. Simply click "go advanced" look/scroll down underneath the reply box, where you see "manage attachments", click that and a new pop-up box appears. this has browse buttons, you may insert a picture into your post for each browse button. This allows you to browse your computer for the picture you want to include.
Once you locate the desired picture click on it, click "open", then "upload, That picture will be uploaded into your post.
There is a test forum here so you may experiment.