Draining Water Heater?

[beenthere]

on my Alfa there is a T in line with hose next to heater and extended down enough to see when look under coach with valve, so i just turn the valve.. my atwood uses plastic plug so no need to inspect rod.. would be easy to install if its not stock like mine

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Winemaker2

Can you post the chemical reaction that would cause the above to form?
These are often called by their proper name "sacrificial anode" for a reason. They are meant to "waste away" and protect the rest of the metal components in the WH by doing so. If it was simply a build up they would increase in size and not be functional as intended.
Calcium carbonate does form and often settle to the bottom of the WH but is a result of the heating. Similar to build up in coffee makers, tea kettles, etc that have no anodes.

Happens with aluminum anode rods.
Aluminum doesn't deteriorate as quickly as the magnesium in hard water but when hard water is heated the calcium carbonate will plate out on the aluminum rods and elements
Calcium Carbonate will build up and make removal difficult, it will also reduce the aluminum rods ability to 'sacrifice'
**Suburban OEM is a magnesium rod cause they 'sacrifice' quicker then the aluminum but can react with microbes in water source and create 'sulfur smell' (hydrogen sulfides)

Aluminum rod with calcium carbonate deposits


Same rod after brushing and cleaning with vinegar

[hartlenb]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

I like to do a 'Power Flush'
After turning power off, turning water off, opening faucet hot side, removing drain plug
I turn water back on full and let it BLAST out the WH drain hole
Cold inlet dip tube points downward so it really stirs up the stuff on bottom of tank and then gets forced out via the full water pressure
*Stay back until you turn water back off...it shoots out LOL

When you say turn water back on, do you mean connect to city water or run from tank with pump? Do you leave faucets open?

Thanks for the tip

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by hartlenb

When you say turn water back on, do you mean connect to city water or run from tank with pump? Do you leave faucets open?

Thanks for the tip

I use the pump cause I always use the pump.....but could do the same using the city water as source wouldn't matter
And YES I close the faucets so full flow/pressure is going into water heater and out the drain hole

[Kluffinator]

Originally Posted by cavie

everything below the centerline of that drain will stay in the tank.

I might test that theory next time I drain by capturing the water in a bucket and see what settles out.

I’ll also remove the petcock and examine the inside of the tank with my horoscope.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

I’ll also remove the petcock and examine the inside of the tank with my horoscope.

Is that the Pisces or Leo model?

Borescope?

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

I might test that theory next time I drain by capturing the water in a bucket and see what settles out.

I’ll also remove the petcock and examine the inside of the tank with my horoscope.

Suburban water heater tanks have the Lowest Drain Location and MOST of what is in the tank will drain out...especially if you power flush


Atwood water heater tanks drain location is higher and drain hole is smaller...power flush

[US1]

Looking at that pic of the Atwood WH, appears there is no way to fully drain it do to the high drain location. Assuming the water left in it will either have to evaporate (leaving a scale behind??) and when it freezes the ice will expand upwards no problem do to the open space and cylindrical design.

Why would Atwood not install the drain on the bottom?

[edge68474]

Another source for door clip.
nwrvsupply.com
They are out of Eugene Oregon. I broke and had to replace mine. Simple fix.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by US1

Looking at that pic of the Atwood WH, appears there is no way to fully drain it do to the high drain location. Assuming the water left in it will either have to evaporate (leaving a scale behind??) and when it freezes the ice will expand upwards no problem do to the open space and cylindrical design.

Why would Atwood not install the drain on the bottom?

Due to drain hole being installed on the side wall of the cylinder (2 halves welded together) vs on the end cap like Suburban
Any lower and it would be below/under the drawn pan

That is WHY I Power Flush my Atwood when draining it so cold inlet dip tube that points downward Stirs up the crud and helps blow it out

[Chuck&Pam]

Originally Posted by Capt Steve

You can use a large "X" style lug wrench. I can't remember the exact size for the drain on the water heater but one of the four socket heads on the lug wrench will fit it.

Nice! Another one of those nuggets we get only on this forum. Thanks for that one Capt Steve.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Capt Steve

You can use a large "X" style lug wrench. I can't remember the exact size for the drain on the water heater but one of the four socket heads on the lug wrench will fit it.

Suburban Anode rod Hex Head is 1 1/16" ---- 3/4" NPT

Atwood NYLON Hex Head is 15/16" or 7/8" (depends on vendor/mfg)
1/2" NPT

[Kluffinator]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Is that the Pisces or Leo model?



Borescope?

I hate autocorrect.
That’s funny.

[Jim Langley]

Originally Posted by reubenray

IK -- I ordered the heating element also.

This simple job has turned into one step forward and two steps backward. The clip on the water heater door broke off.

How and where can I get this replacement?

You can purchase the door latch from Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/Atwood-9260...PKBMEGTG3JQ2S4