Community Forums

chunker · 01-07-2021, 10:55 AM

I'll add this in case someone didn't read all the responses about relieving pressure. Put on a kevlar chest protector because if you remove the drain plug/anode without doing so, it will fly out under significant pressure and hit you square in the sternum.

Old-Biscuit · 01-07-2021, 10:58 AM

Suburban Water Heater Panel Latch --- Metal one
https://www.camperid.com/jr-products...eid=1077394142

chunker · 01-07-2021, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Suburban Water Heater Panel Latch --- Metal one
https://www.camperid.com/jr-products...eid=1077394142

A few years ago I was looking at a new RV, don't remember now what it was, and the latch device was plastic. It broke off in my hand as I was looking at the the RV. Obviously didn't buy that.

reubenray · 01-07-2021, 11:34 AM

Thanks everyone - I have the metal latch ordered also. Hopefully there will be directions on how to install it.

nomad bull · 01-07-2021, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chunker

I'll add this in case someone didn't read all the responses about relieving pressure. Put on a kevlar chest protector because if you remove the drain plug/anode without doing so, it will fly out under significant pressure and hit you square in the sternum.

Under pressure the anode rod will fly about 10 feet. Don’t ask me how I know😉 I am glad I was not directly in front of it as mine is about forehead level. It did however blow out a lot of sediment.

Winemaker2 · 01-07-2021, 12:22 PM

The white build up is oxide of the aluminum or magnesium of the rod. Calcium will form on the heating element and often settle in the bottom of the tank. Clean & replace anode if less than half consumed. If more than half consumed replace.

Following from https://www.landmarkhw.com/resources...er-heater/2/29

"The chemical reaction for rusting begins by oxidation, which is when iron loses two of its electrons to the oxygen found in the tank. When you*place a magnesium or aluminum rod into water, this also occurs, just much faster. The bonds between the molecules of magnesium and aluminum give up their electrons faster than the bonds in steel or iron. Thus, when you place an aluminum or magnesium anode rod into an iron or steel tank of water, the oxygen in the equation takes the two electrons of the anode rod instead of the tank, as they gave them up quicker. This will rust the anode rod, but not the tank itself."

Old-Biscuit · 01-07-2021, 02:54 PM

Often, when anodes are removed from hot water tanks, they are covered in a white mineral. This is calcium carbonate, and often can be removed by brushing it down with a towel. Calcium carbonate can sometimes form a hard layer on the surface of the anode. While this will serve to protect the rod from corrosion, it may have a detrimental effect upon the surrounding tank.

cavie · 01-07-2021, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reubenray

I want to drain my water heater and looking for ideas on how to do this without getting soaking wet. I will have to use a crescent wrench being I don't have a socket this big. This means I will have to do small turns at a time. I am also concerned about the water running down the side of my motorhome.

On my last motorhome (Tiffin) the drain plug was much smaller (at least I think it was).

You own a Newmar and you can't afford the proper 6 point socket and a universal joint?? The Suburban is 1 1/16" Atwater is 15/16 and/or 7/8 (NYLON) depending on the model. When it stops draining was off the motor home.

reubenray · 01-07-2021, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

You own a Newmar and you can't afford the proper 6 point socket and a universal joint?? The Suburban is 1 1/16" Atwater is 15/16 and/or 7/8 (NYLON) depending on the model. When it stops draining was off the motor home.

Yes I can afford a 1 1/16" socket. I went through both of my socket sets and there was no an 1 1/16" socket.

mrboyer · 01-07-2021, 04:48 PM

Go to a big box store plumbing department. Usually, they sell a 3 part tool. Two parts are two different sizes which gives you 4 and a slide through rod for a handle. Maybe Harbor Frt has them also. You would probably only use once or twice a year. Doesn’t have to be SnapOn quality. I just ordered 25 of the nylon plugs, but I don’t think your water heater uses them. Atwood does. It is easier to replace then to have them leak.

Kluffinator · 01-07-2021, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Suburban uses an Anode Rod to protect the steel glass lined tank
Anode Rod Hex head is 1 1/16"
Stuff on Anode Rod is calcium build up...just wire brush it off
Rape threads then reinstall after draining so critters don't set up house

Atwood NO anode rod cause tank is aluminum
NYLON drain plug is either 15/16" or 7/8" hex head ====depends on VENDOR which one
No tape needed..install after draining

IF Electric was turned on/left on........new element needed cause they burn out within minutes of dry firing

Petcocks/Valves etc
OK for letting water out BUT sediment/scale/calcium are left behind as the petcocks/valves restrict flow due to SMALL opening

Best to use the OEM drain as designed

Some Low Point Drains will drain water heater
Some do not....depends on how the cold plumbing lines are installed as that is what the WH Tank would drain back thru

I like to do a 'Power Flush'
After turning power off, turning water off, opening faucet hot side, removing drain plug
I turn water back on full and let it BLAST out the WH drain hole
Cold inlet dip tube points downward so it really stirs up the stuff on bottom of tank and then gets forced out via the full water pressure
*Stay back until you turn water back off...it shoots out LOL

Hmm. I hadn’t thought about the small opening being a problem. But I imagine when I put about 40lbs of air in the system and give it a good blow it carries a lot of that out with it.

cavie · 01-08-2021, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

Hmm. I hadn’t thought about the small opening being a problem. But I imagine when I put about 40lbs of air in the system and give it a good blow it carries a lot of that out with it.

everything below the centerline of that drain will stay in the tank.

reubenray · 01-08-2021, 04:28 AM

My drain is down at the bottom. Once I took the drain/anode rod out I put water back on my motorhome and flushed the tank. I then rinsed the side of the motorhome off.

I have ordered new anode rods (2 pack), a heating element and a door latch. This should all come in early next week. Due to it being winter I will not refill the tank and test everything until the danger of freezing weather is over. I did put the old anode rode back in to keep critters out. I need to temporarily put my panel/door back on to keep the rain out.

Winemaker2 · 01-08-2021, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Often, when anodes are removed from hot water tanks, they are covered in a white mineral. This is calcium carbonate, and often can be removed by brushing it down with a towel. Calcium carbonate can sometimes form a hard layer on the surface of the anode. While this will serve to protect the rod from corrosion, it may have a detrimental effect upon the surrounding tank.

Can you post the chemical reaction that would cause the above to form?
These are often called by their proper name "sacrificial anode" for a reason. They are meant to "waste away" and protect the rest of the metal components in the WH by doing so. If it was simply a build up they would increase in size and not be functional as intended.
Calcium carbonate does form and often settle to the bottom of the WH but is a result of the heating. Similar to build up in coffee makers, tea kettles, etc that have no anodes.