Electric dump valves

[mfire1339]

Do your homework? How far would you have to crawl to use your supplied manual wrench when that valve fails?




Mike

[Dutch Star Don]

On mine, I just lean into the wet bay and turn the allen wrench on the drain. In six years and hundreds of drain open/close operations, it only failed once when I hadn't used it in awhile. I turned the wrench, drain opened and everything went back to normal operation. Pretty simple stuff.

[Doug F]

So I think I really need these.... at 84 it is really hard to kneel, open the valves, get up start the flush line....
What are my options? New Gemini 23tw
Doug

[Cat320]

Originally Posted by docj

On my vintage Beaver, the handles for the tanks pull directly on the valves. No cables involved. I know that newer Beaver models had electric valves. My question is simply--why? It doesn't make sense to me to automate something that works well. Automation simply introduces something else that can fail. JMO

My sentiments exactly. As for lubricating the dump handles:

- Empty the tanks and turn the T handle so the top of T is horizontal.
- Drill a small hole just above where the rod goes into the tank.
- Put the little red rod on the end of your lube spray can, and insert it into the hole.
- Put a couple of shots in the hole, pump rod in and out, leave it out and repeat. Close tank.
- Secure a small screw in the screw hole....easy to lube again when time.
- Repeat for other tank.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by docj

On my vintage Beaver, the handles for the tanks pull directly on the valves. No cables involved. I know that newer Beaver models had electric valves. My question is simply--why? It doesn't make sense to me to automate something that works well. Automation simply introduces something else that can fail. JMO

I feel the same about many items on newer MH's

[Dutch Star Don]

Yep......when people don't have or aren't willing to try new technology, they immediately criticize it. I don't have it, so no one else must need it! That type of response literally stymies the exchange of ideas on here. The OP was looking for options, not just what you decide is the only way to do it.

[DKRITTER]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Yep......when people don't have or aren't willing to try new technology, they immediately criticize it. I don't have it, so no one else must need it! That type of response literally stymies the exchange of ideas on here. The OP was looking for options, not just what you decide is the only way to do it.

Sometimes you just want to ask if they are using a horse and covered wagon.

[1010]

Originally Posted by Doug F

So I think I really need these.... at 84 it is really hard to kneel, open the valves, get up start the flush line....
What are my options? New Gemini 23tw
Doug

I am the OP on this thread, the valves after two years became so difficult to open and close so in my opinion going to electric valves seemed a viable option since I had to replace the original valves anyway. By “difficult” I mean it was like a foot against the trailer and pull with both hands difficult. I did not have this problem with my two prior trailers. Since the valves were covered under the extended warranty the out of pocket cost seemed worth it. I like the electric valves, I still manually open and close the main septic drain.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Originally Posted by 1010

I am the OP on this thread, the valves after two years became so difficult to open and close so in my opinion going to electric valves seemed a viable option since I had to replace the original valves anyway. By “difficult” I mean it was like a foot against the trailer and pull with both hands difficult. I did not have this problem with my two prior trailers. Since the valves were covered under the extended warranty the out of pocket cost seemed worth it. I like the electric valves, I still manually open and close the main septic drain.

That's certainly not a normal situation, though it is recommended to lubricate the valve shaft annually. And there are some commercial products that claim to provide internal lubrication of the valve slide. TST & Thetford sell an additive to the tank for that, and

this fellow

claims plain old vegetable oil works.

If the valve gets that hard to move in a year or two, I have to wonder whether the electric valve is going to survive either.

[KenZ71]

Have to wonder if the easier option would be a Macerator and Bluetooth switch

For the switch Amazon linky
https://a.co/d/86Ofzrq

[1010]

KenZ71, Maybe I am thinking of something different but I did use a macerator on a previous trailer, it broke everything down to go through a 3/4” hose. I still had to open the valves manually so I am not sure how that solves the issue we are discussing.
Gary, yes not normal but without appearing to whine, I seem to attract the not so normal. I tried lubing the metal rods, didn’t work, since the underbelly is sealed not much I could do except use recommended methods and products to help lube the seals, didn’t work. I forget the cable lengths, maybe 6’ and they were looped in circles on top of each with various scrap pieces on the belly pan. Had the cables been cut the appropriate lengths maybe I would not have had this issue, but I decided on the electric and have had no problems and like I said the cost was minimal since the manual valves were replaced by the warranty. If an electric valves fails, or a manual valve fails I am in the same unhappy situation.

[hamm2018]

Originally Posted by 1010

I am the OP on this thread, the valves after two years became so difficult to open and close so in my opinion going to electric valves seemed a viable option since I had to replace the original valves anyway. By “difficult” I mean it was like a foot against the trailer and pull with both hands difficult. I did not have this problem with my two prior trailers. Since the valves were covered under the extended warranty the out of pocket cost seemed worth it. I like the electric valves, I still manually open and close the main septic drain.

Which electric valve did you install? I am seriously considering installing electric valves but have not decided which make to get. Thought about it a couple years ago, but didn't because of the cost, and had to have something else repaired. So, this fell down the list of items.

[Dutch Star Don]

I bought this one. I liked that they offered a second switch that was prewired so you could open and close from either switch. The second switch is inside my half bath. If you connect your sewer hose when you arrive and open your grey tank, you can simply dump the black by operating the inside switch. Otherwise, operate it from the wet bay with a single switch.

https://drainmaster.com/rv/pro-serie...c-waste-valves

[znt1186]

Originally Posted by Cat320

My sentiments exactly. As for lubricating the dump handles:

- Empty the tanks and turn the T handle so the top of T is horizontal.
- Drill a small hole just above where the rod goes into the tank.
- Put the little red rod on the end of your lube spray can, and insert it into the hole.
- Put a couple of shots in the hole, pump rod in and out, leave it out and repeat. Close tank.
- Secure a small screw in the screw hole....easy to lube again when time.
- Repeat for other tank.

Mine already had the holes and screws installed by the previous owner, but were a little hard to open and close. I used silicone plumber's grease forced into the holes and worked them a few times., Now my 6 yr. old grandson can operate them. Or I do it with two fingers when he is not around. It is waterproof btw.