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lascar · 06-18-2016, 05:51 PM

I'm sure some of you have these trailers, and maybe some are experts in ramp door repair. I have a 2006 Olympic 20 foot Cargo Mate and I can't adjust the door springs to where I can open and close the door.
We have rewound each of the two springs about ten turns each. The cables are winding as they should. Now it is hard to open the first foot or two, and it does not go all the way down, it stops a few inches from the ground, but goes down easily when stepped on, Then I can not lift it up to close it. I am an old guy, but I need to use the trailer. Any and all help will be appreciated.

Ray,IN · 06-19-2016, 09:22 PM

Have you oiled the crude hinges at the bottom? They are (on mine) nothing more than black pipe welded to trailer frame, and 5/8" steel rod on the door bottom. They get dirt in them and rust from exposure to water.

TQ60 · 06-20-2016, 07:23 PM

Sounds like a torsion spring or cable like that of a garage door.

Use a string or open door and measure distance of cable if it has a lift cable.

Close door and observe action of all moving parts.

If a lift cable the axle and spring may be binding.

Also the axle needs to be able to rotate enough times to fully wind up the cable as well as let out enough for the door to open fully.

Take the string and wrap it arround the cable room to see how many turns it takes.

Now prop up door then release spring tension then clean and oil everything that moves then re tension spring by winding same amount of turns required to lift door.

It could be the springs have lost tension or dirty or ???

NHRA225 · 06-20-2016, 07:46 PM

Be extremely careful adjusting those springs, the tension is calculated by the weight of the door to number of turns.
The door must be open during the adjusting process.
Again Be very careful and have a helper with you. My trailer door is an easy 500 lbs and as I remember it has 5 turns on the springs. You might also consider taking the trailer to someone who sells them for the adjustment.

TQ60 · 06-21-2016, 07:37 AM

I was slipping before...

Have you been able to contact the manufacturer to ask them?

If like an overhead door system the manufacturer should have a specific number of turns required to set tension.

One turn too much the door may not fully open and 1/2 turn not enough and it may be hard to lift.

Dirt in the coils prevents proper slipping making it not have as much power.

Confirm how to test spring powee as they could be tired or defective

Ray,IN · 06-21-2016, 09:15 PM

I once installed torsion spring garage doors for a 2nd job, my cargo trailer ramp-door is very similar. First clean everything and oil where required. I once found a rock binding my door hinges.
The list of thing required to change tension on the springs are: a wrench to fit the square-headed set screw, two steel bars 14-16" long to fit the holes in the spring winding head, a bright-colored marker to make a straight line on the springs when completely unwound/relaxed (although you shouldn't need to do that-it should already be there), sturdy footstool so you can be at a comfortable height.
Both cables should be the same length, and the cable drums in good shape, and aligned so the notch in the drum for the cable ends are in the same position when the cable is hand-tight. If both cables are not the same length it will never be right.
The marker line turns into dots marking each complete wind of the spring.
The number of turns for a new installation is different from tightening old used springs, so only add one revolution at a time, then test the door movement.
You use both steel rods to wind the spring. First, insert one rod, loosen the set screw while holding fast to the rod with the other hand. When the screw is loose you'll feel the tension and know which direction to turn the spring end. Tighten using the first rod until you can get the 2nd rod in the next hole, continue tightening until you can remove the first rod, repeat until you count one complete revolution, hold tension with one hand, tighten set screw with wrench until it bites into the rod a bit. Gently remove tension with your hand on the rod until you can remove the rod.
Do the other spring the same way. Then test the door. You may need to add or remove only 1/2 turn to get the tension correct.
If I was not clear, or you'd feel better with confirmation; installation instructions for a torsion spring garage door are online.

B Dubya · 06-21-2016, 09:20 PM

Those are time bombs for the novice. I wouldn't even mess with it. Take it to someone with the knowledge. Not to sound tooooooo doom and gloom, but these things have killed folks messing with them.

lascar · 06-25-2016, 04:21 PM

The hinges on the ramp door were the problem all along. They were rusted. I plan to put some zerk fittings in to keep them lubricated. Right now, we have drilled a couple of holes to squirt oil into the joint.
Thanks to all for the help!

Tha_Rooster · 06-26-2016, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B Dubya

Those are time bombs for the novice. I wouldn't even mess with it. Take it to someone with the knowledge. Not to sound tooooooo doom and gloom, but these things have killed folks messing with them.

If you have ever heard a spring break you would be extra careful .

Ray,IN · 06-29-2016, 09:02 PM

I'm glad you got it fixed! I would not grease the hinges, grease and road dirt combine to form a crude grinding compound. Better to rinse off with a hose then re-oil.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster

If you have ever heard a spring break you would be extra careful .

I've been winding and experienced/ heard a torsion spring break. Noisy, but doesn't go anywhere or hurt you, as it is captured by both end inserts on the hollow tube.
I've also had a tension spring break, now that can hurt a fellow.

TQ60 · 06-30-2016, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

I'm glad you got it fixed! I would not grease the hinges, grease and road dirt combine to form a crude grinding compound. Better to rinse off with a hose then re-oil.

I've been winding and experienced/ heard a torsion spring break. Noisy, but doesn't go anywhere or hurt you, as it is captured by both end inserts on the hollow tube.
I've also had a tension spring break, now that can hurt a fellow.

If you want to grease it and due to proximity to road dirt we suggest visiting a cat service center.

They have a grease for the crawler tracks that Is the nastiest stuff you will ever come across.

It is immune to water and most detergents and is designed to stay in place in the tracks as they go in dirt and mud.

It is a high moly base compound and is about 7 bucks or so for a cartridge.

We used it to paint our ground systems as the copper theft was an issue and when they touched anything painted with this stuff they left it alone as it does not wipe off.

It will stay in place in your hinges.