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Old 08-26-2020, 11:25 PM   #1
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Flooring replacement?

A fine evening to you all.

After a long year, my wife and I have decided to do a makeover of the 5er we have had for the last 10 years.

One thing we both agree on is the carpet has to go. We've watched a number of Youtubers who have shown us the gotchas of doing the floors.

My question is self stick or adhesive for the vinyl floor?

Remove the old factory Vinyl or go over it?

My slide is dragging and I'm working on remediating that before I put the floor in - I would go thicker, but I just don't have the clearance between the bottom of the slide and the flooring.

I am also looking at where to purchase the self stick (if that's suggested) locally (e.g. Home Depot or Lowes? )

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-27-2020, 01:13 AM   #2
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Having done the same thing on a towable I owned my recommendation is to go with the good stuff like Armstrong so you only have to do it once having found this out the hard way.
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Old 08-27-2020, 10:59 AM   #3
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Hi Josh! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined us!

I would not trust the self-stick for that application. We used the 12" premium vinyl tiles laid in a diamond pattern. Be aware that the surface underneath needs to be perfectly smooth or the imperfection will eventually show through the new tile!

Look at post #75 in this thread.


Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:04 PM   #4
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We replaced ours with VillaStone, a marble dust and resin tile 18Ē square. The floor store that sold the materials to me recommended installing with outdoor carpet mastic. The mastic is made to stand up to below freezing to above 140 in the sun. It stays flexible as does the tile. It is laid just like ceramic tile with space to grout with a vinyl and sand base. The tile and grout comes in several colors. Ours has been installed for 8 years trouble free.
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:10 PM   #5
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Why do you want a peel and stick? Why not use a vinyl plank and float it. I have done two MH's and both are holding up fine. I have also used it in condos that we own and is holding up well to tourist renters that can be very hard on it.
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:30 PM   #6
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Look at click lock vinyl planks; not recommend self sticky ones.
Clean the floor, and remove existing vinyl sheet if any. Generally a bare and smooth plywood floor should be good, or use a underlayment if not.
A dab of glue underneath works best, or it could shift while in motion.

Check big box stores and Lumber Liquidators.

I did this years ago, for your reference. I wish I could have found a better color plank back then. (Note: the hosting server tinypic.com went south it took some of my photos with it.)
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Old 08-27-2020, 07:15 PM   #7
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First Let me thank all of you for taking the time to reply - with thoughtful answers.

All the online youtubers say that interlocking floating floors are not as good - hence my question.
I saw another video where they suggested self sticking on the bottom and side, but my search has been in vain to find it.

@Happycampers - I don't have the clearance between the bottom of my slide and the existing floor (existing vinyl removed). We liked the tile idea, but it's really not in the cards.
I have lifted the slide up as much as I can and I can probably squeeze in 3/16" or possibly 1/4" - but I need to address the sag in my slide in first.

@Mr.boyer - thanks for the tip on the outdoor mastic. good call. the RV is stored below freezing in the winter and that will be a problem.

@GMC and Countryfit - so you both recommend the click lock with a few dabs of glue here and there to keep it together?

I was concerned that the floor would shift in an RV - especially with one edge up against the slide. if just a dab of adhesive is all I need, the I may go that route. I like the look of the locking floors but was concerned it wasn't going to hold up.

Again thanks for the life experiences!

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Old 08-28-2020, 08:50 AM   #8
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We were considering Pergo or similar plank flooring. After reading through their web sites have found that they all do not recommend putting their products in an RV. After talking to a couple sales reps, it isn't the flex/movement problem but temperature extremes in many areas. In our case, we may see 95-100F in the summer but winter, might see negative 10-20F. For us, it's either more but better quality carpet or sheet vinyl.

What I'm saying is that you need to do your homework first with manufacturers then use the best product for your needs.
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Old 08-28-2020, 10:27 AM   #9
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Ranked from best to worst:

Engineered wood planks urethane glued down
Vinyl planks glued down
Solid sheet vinyl glued down
Peel and Stick tiles (don't waste your time).
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Old 08-29-2020, 08:39 AM   #10
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Most, all (?), vinyl plank products cannot handle the temperature extremes. Read the specs carefully or you may really regret the results.
Still looking for the ideal Newmar DP!
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Old 09-07-2020, 09:25 PM   #11
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Thanks again so much!
After looking the various products, it seems dw has selected https://www.lowes.com/pd/ProCore-16-...ing/1000389559

as per product of choice. it's all vinyl 3.2mm thick and it's a reasonable price.

I was going to use an outdoor carpet mastic - here and there allowing it to float a little bit and allow for some thermal expansion.

we're still in the gutting phase - removing the old carpet and the bajillion staples is an exercise in patience (though, i may have come up with a better way - pull the carpet and use a cutoff wheel to abrate the staples flush with the wood - works wonders I might add just don't dig into the plywood).

while it does get cold here in denver (it could get down to below zero - it does routinely get above 100 in storage.

What I can't do is use a thicker product because of my slide (which is a whole other problem). for right now, we're focusing on the upper area and will get to the main area after we put the thing back together.

I'm hoping this will work out -

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Old 09-07-2020, 09:46 PM   #12
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I have successfully put click-edged LVP into cabins and RV's here in Minnesota for years. I've had no problems.

But then we only get temp swings from 120 (in a sun-heated RV) to maybe -30.

If I had a place on Mars, with REAL temperature swings, I don't think I'd use LVP.


1993 Rockwood 28' Class C - Ford E-350 7.5L
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Old 09-07-2020, 09:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Weissmand View Post
Pay attention to the instructions concerning gaps. Don't glue it down. You can fill in the gaps with a bead of silicone caulk if you like - it'll contract and expand easily while keeping edges down.

1993 Rockwood 28' Class C - Ford E-350 7.5L
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Old 09-07-2020, 10:26 PM   #14
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Great advice Bobby -

Would you use underlayment or just put it down on the plywood directly?
I have a couple of areas (laundry shoot) that I will need to adhere it to the floor, but not to much else.

the main part of the RV is easier in the sense it's all one level.
In the area under the bed, it's stepped under the bed twice, and along the perimeter walls - the main support steel beams are a different height of the floor under the bed.

good thing is the vertical surfaces will be clad with maple luan (1/4" thick) and she's going to paint that. I'm only responsible for the horizontal surfaces. Of course, this is all subject to change with the wind by the Decorator (DW!)

Thanks again!
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