Fresh Diesel vs Biodiesel

[skypilot_1]

Cummins (can't speak to others) okayed Biodiesel up to B20 for their engines a decade ago. How would anyone today be able to travel anywhere if they only used #2 diesel. The Feds mandated that the pumps didn't have to be ID as to percentage Bio if under 5%. One would not know exactly what the % is as 5% and under isn't stated on pump at all.
I've talked with fuel tanker drivers that stated they haul a different % of Biodiesel daily and it gets added to whatever is in the truck stop tanks. So you have a mixture , but less than B20 always. Thats why pump markings state "may contain up to 20 % Biodiesel"

And yes Im sure. The fleet bus shops added straight 30w engine oil to large capacity fuel tanks which makes it about a 4% mix. They buy in bulk so the cost is minimal.

[Itchytoe]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

Thank you SkyPilot_1 for answering one of my questions and sharing your concerns about today's fuel, especially if you own a pre-2005 coach with a Cummins ISC/ISL with a CAPS injection pump.

As for everyone else who likes to use the expression: "You are over thinking it." Well, that just sounds like a you do know the answer.

Okay, that makes it look like you're just looking for people that already agree with you to voice their agreement. It makes it look like you're not actually looking for answers. Maybe you really are just overthinking it.

So if there is no sticker on the Diesel pump indicating the percent of bio-diesel being sold, does that mean they are selling 5% bio-diesel or less?

It's very likely a safe assumption that a sticker would have been on the pump at some point in time if the diesel was partially or wholly bio-diesel. If there's no sticker, it's probably 5% or less.

And Wikipedia has a lot of information on the amount of energy/pound to compare and debate the pros and cons of bio-diesel use.

I got a little confused on the tax implications and/or profit motives of using bio-diesel, so if someone can sum that up I would be curious as to the motivations of the STATE and the Refineries vs what's good for your engine.

Don't put too much faith in Wikipedia. It's good for very basic information, but nothing beyond a sophomore level.
The state (governments) just want more money. They are all greedy and will tax anything they can. They don't care where it comes from, they just want it taxed, or banned. It's really that simple.
Refineries don't need to trick you, or lie to you, or any BS like that. They also just want your money. There is no motivation for them to be sneaky or deceptive in any way. They aren't run like most people think they are. It's not like a family owned pizza joint where just a few people make big decisions. Refineries literally have hundreds of people running them. And each oil company, like Conoco, Phillips66, Valero, Sunnoco, BP, etc., have dozens of refineries across the US and other countries. Not like Johny Conoco is sitting in a penthouse wondering how he can make more money.

I'm mostly concerned about lubricity. Or should I say the loss of lubricity due to ULSD fuels introduced in 2006. And Wikipedia says that Bio-diesel are suppose to have better lubricating properties, but less BTUs/pound.

Yep, Wikipedia got that one right. Bio-diesel does have better lubricity and less energy. The difference in lubricity isn't as extreme as you might have been lead to believe though. Your engine will run fine on ULSD. You don't need a bunch of additives, but if you insist on using one, go for it. Your diesel engine can use almost any oil as a fuel. It'll burn almost anything that you put in there as an additive.

The argument then becomes: If you get less MPG and have to burn more fuel, how then does bio-diesel benefit the user or our environment?

Bio-diesel isn't a game changer in terms of environmental friendliness. Electric vehicles also aren't the big game changer people think they are. Really, you've figured this one out yourself.

And since I am not a DEF user, I'm guessing you guys have your own concerns about bio-diesel. Is that right?

Nope. The SCR system doesn't care what kind of diesel you burn. It has no impact on DEF at all. Might clog your DPF faster, but the SCR should be fine.

[jimcumminsw]

As point out all diesel fuel sold in the US must meet the ASTM D6751 standard and the EPA mandate for diesel fuel part 80 title 40 subpart 1. This fuel will work in any diesel engine vehicle without issues.

I would be more worried about water and microbial contamination (bacteria and fungus) that can be found in diesel fuel than the difference between Bio-Fuel and N0.2 Diesel fuel! With its effects on your diesel engine!

I do treat both of my vehicles during the winter with POWER SERVICE Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost per the directions on the bottle.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

This information comes from an Onan Commercial Generator Shop and I think it makes sense.

1) Truck Stops are suppose to have better filtration vs. the local gas station and I believe there is some truth to that. In addition, Diesel has lots of organic matter in it and when diesel sits algae grows and water is introduced by rain and humid conditions. Both are not good for your engine.

2) Bio-diesel blends may or may not be good for your engine, but there is no debate when it comes to bio-diesel causing trouble over time. So when fueling up, try to find a brand that does not use bio-diesel or one that say they do not have more than 5% bio-diesel. FYI... Bio basically means animal fat and/or vegetable oil.

3) B-20 has up to 20% bio-diesel and sometime you can't avoid buying it. We think it's ok to run bio-diesel, but be aware it gets "gummy" over time. So this is another reason to use diesel fuel additives.

==> We just recently changed from Lucas to Howe's, because we found our engine (and generator) runs smoother on Howe's, and Howe's is easier to put in your tank because it's very thin and pours out easily vs. Lucas which is thick and takes a while to get into your tank. (SO TRY HOWE's the next time you are at Walmart or a truck stop. We think you will like it!)

* All diesel gells-up in cold weather below 35F so don't be in a hurry; i.e., use your engine block heater before you start your engine when it's below 40F outside.

* Whenever you store your RV for a longer than 1 month, make sure you have a full tank and make sure you put a additive in it. We like Biocides and other owners have said "Star Tron" for diesel is good for long term storage, because it has enzymes that will eat your organic matter inside your fuel tank.

Side Note: We also ran some "Hot Shot" in our engine the other day and that stuff worked great! Our MPG is up and our engine is running smoother.

So while we were paying a lot of attention to filtration, we think everyone should pay a lot of attention to the percent of bio-diesel they are putting in their tank.

===
In Houston Area the Valero Stations had a 5% Bio-diesel sticker on the pump. However, all the other Stations we visited all had B-20 stickers.

Does anyone know what stations carry low Bio-Diesel fuels or are they all posting B-20 and there is nothing we can do. (Again, B-20 means "up to 20% bio-diesel.) To bad there is not a diesel test we can preform at the pump? ...Or is there?

There is so much misinformation in that I don't know where to begin, so I just call BS..

[NHRA225]

Good call Ray - I haven't seen Regular Diesel Fuel anywhere in Years.

[imnprsd]

You know, when I posted this thread it was to share information about the affects of bio-diesel used in our RV generators that either don't get run as often as they should or sit for a long time; and to beg questions so I can better understand what types of diesel fuels I was putting in my 2003 Cummins ISC-350HP engine with a CAPS injection system. (CAPS is a pre-2004 design that can fail prematurely due to ULSD fuel... so I was pleased to learn bio-diesel is suppose have better "lubricity" since they took some of the sulfur out of Diesel #2 back in 2006.)

So excuse me if I'm "over thinking it a bit" because I spent $9,000 replacing my CAPS pump and ECM in 2016 and I don't want to replace another one!!!

To clarify my source: I picked this information up from an Onan certified shop who's primary business is servicing commercial backup generators in the Houston area. And since every generator needs a fuel tank, and since these fuel tanks sit with fuel in them for long periods of time, their point was that higher percent bio-diesel fuel "gum-up" more over time vs. 5% or less bio diesel fuels. (BS?)

Knowing nothing about diesel fuels personally, but having traveled 30,000 miles over the last 4 years (from coast to coast), I was confused by the stickers on all those diesel pumps, which range from just saying Diesel #2, ULSD, 5% bio-diesel, B-10 and B-20.

...And because the diesel pump is often shared with gasoline pumps in local gas stations, we all can see "ethanol" stickers on the pump too. So for a while there I thought ethanol was being added to diesel. However, people corrected me on that.

...But wait! If you have not heard, Mobil & Exon are now marketing "Synergy Diesel" and other companies are experimenting with e-diesel that does include ethanol:

https://www.exxon.com/en/synergy-die...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

(BS...? Are they really putting ethanol in diesel or not?)

According to a Freightliner mechanic I was working with to install FASS fuel pump in my RV last month, he says they are seeing blown diesel engines coming into their shop due to these e-diesel fuels being pushed in corn-country states like Iowa and others. (Maybe this one is BS? Let's hope so.)

As for additives, I suppose we use these like some people take vitamins; i.e., if you believe they work then more power to you. (But maybe additives are BS?)

To summarize: I post this topic in an attempt to learn more about these subjects from our more knowledgeable (nay I say more) senior members. However, I must have stated my questions wrong and/or used incorrect language based on some responses. And while other members "get" where I am coming from and "contributed" something to the topic, thank you very much; clearly, other people sit in critique and say things like: "Maybe you are overthinking this..." or "...There is so much misinformation in that I don't know where to begin, so I just call BS."

How do answers like these help the rest of become more educated or learn more about the subject at hand?

So after NOT getting the help from our senior members with all those campfire credits under their name, I turned to google and came across this website, aka "Diesel Fuel For Dummies."

https://www.dummies.com/home-garden/...-diesel-fuels/

Here's what they say, but it too may be BS? You decide:

No. 2 diesel is fuel that has a sulfur level no higher than 15 ppm. It is used primarily in motor vehicle diesel engines for on-highway use. (ULSD fuel was introduced back in 2006.)

Standard diesel fuel (sometimes called diesel oil) comes in two grades: Diesel #1 (or 1-D) and Diesel #2 (or 2-D).

The higher the cetane number, the more volatile the fuel. ... Diesel #1 flows more easily than Diesel #2, so it's more efficient at lower temperatures.

All diesel automakers specify Diesel #2 for normal driving conditions.

Truckers use Diesel #2 to carry heavy loads for long distances at sustained speeds because it’s less volatile than Diesel #1 and provides greater fuel economy.

So riddle me this:

Q1) If I have a choice, would you use B-20 or B-5 diesel #2?

Q2) I'm reading more about fuel lines in pre-2006 model being replaced. ...Something about ULSD fuels introduced in 2006 that older fuel lines were not compatible with. If this is true, why is that?

Q3) If Diesel #1 is thinner and more volatile then Diesel #2, in the colder states, do they tell you when they switch blends?

Q4) Does Diesel #1 give more power or better MPG?

Q5) Do fuel additives damage fuel lines in older systems?

Q6) I found that comment about adding motor oil to the fuel to be very interesting. I suppose that means it's okay to burn extra quarts of oil in our tank. Has anyone done this or is everyone doing this and I'm the last to know about it? ...Does any one burn old engine oil in their tank?

That doesn't sound right, but maybe that's what the fuel filter is for? ...Or maybe people are adding old oil to the last tank fill up before they change their fuel filters? ...Just curious!

Q7) Has anyone been running Mobil/Exon "Synergy Fuel" and what can you share? (Better MPG? Engine trouble? No change?)

Their claim: "The next time you fill up your diesel car or truck, make sure to try the diesel fuel that helps improve mileage and deliver more power."

Many thanks for clearing up my confusion of running different types of diesel fuel in your engine or generator.

And just so you know: I found this Rislone additive quiets the generator so I like using it more than Lucas. 10-20% by volume (~10oz/oil change)... The regular Rislone, not the "high mileage" version.

[ASU777]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

...so I can better understand what types of diesel fuels I was putting in my 2003 Cummins ISC-350HP engine with a CAPS injection system.

This is something I just started thinking about too since I have yet to put any diesel in my newly acquired 8.3L ISC 350 engine with CAPS. Mine is from 2002 and I believe is considered the "pre-2002 EPA" designation that Cummins refers to when they say to only use up to 5% bio-diesel.

Since I have limited choices where to fuel up due to size, my plan is to check the websites of the truck stop chains (and/or fuel card discount) for the best price and the bio-diesel percentage posted on the website. If I can easily pick between B20 at a Loves or B10 at a Flying J, I'll go for the B10 unless the price is significantly higher.

In addition, I'll be using Optilube XPD year round and Power Service Clear Diesel when storing fuel for awhile or periodically as they recommend. I'll also keep some Power Service Biocide on-hand although I don't know how to verify I have an algae problem that would warrant using it. I assume I'll find a test strip or kit. I have no idea if any of this will make a difference.

Otherwise, I have accepted that everything is going to fail on this age of a motorhome for one reason or another. The fuel lines will probably deteriorate no matter what kind of diesel or additives I buy.

[NevadaNick]

While #1 dsl flows more easily at cold temps, it is not more efficient. It has less btu than #2 and will make less power.

[Ray,IN]

imnprsd, I did not mean that comment to you, but rather at that Onan shop you quoted. BTW Onan generator engines, " Depending on the year and model, a Cummins Onan QD generator may be equipped with either an Isuzu or a Kubota water-cooled diesel engine," . Cummins does not make these engines.
I could continue for several paragraphs about what that shop told you, but that would be redundant, as all the information is available on the net.



As to lubricity, bio-diesel provides the more lubricity than any other product, and it is the cheapest additive.
Source: https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76...y-results.html
It is interesting to note, all products/additives below #13 performed worse than no additives whatsoever/raw diesel fuel.


As to your injection pump failure, there are a multitude of other reasons for injection pump failure, partially-clogged fuel filters is IMO the main one.You already know that story.

[Itchytoe]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

So riddle me this:

Q1) If I have a choice, would you use B-20 or B-5 diesel #2?

Go with #2.

Q2) I'm reading more about fuel lines in pre-2006 model being replaced. ...Something about ULSD fuels introduced in 2006 that older fuel lines were not compatible with. If this is true, why is that?

Diesel soaks into certain rubbers and makes them expand. That's a problem if your fuel lines are made of that rubber for obvious reasons. IIRC, that was one of the issues with older fuel lines. There could have been more, but my first diesel was a 2008, so I have admittedly very little experience with that particular issue.

Q3) If Diesel #1 is thinner and more volatile then Diesel #2, in the colder states, do they tell you when they switch blends?

No, and they don't switch from #2 to #1 diesel. Winter diesel is just made a little differently so that it gels at a lower temperature.

A similar process happens with gasoline too. IIRC the percentage of butane changes between summer and winter blends for a similar reason.

Q4) Does Diesel #1 give more power or better MPG?

Nope, #2 has a higher energy density, so it will yield both more power and better fuel economy.

Q5) Do fuel additives damage fuel lines in older systems?

No

Q6) I found that comment about adding motor oil to the fuel to be very interesting. I suppose that means it's okay to burn extra quarts of oil in our tank. Has anyone done this or is everyone doing this and I'm the last to know about it? ...Does any one burn old engine oil in their tank?

That doesn't sound right, but maybe that's what the fuel filter is for? ...Or maybe people are adding old oil to the last tank fill up before they change their fuel filters? ...Just curious!

No, nobody burns old engine oil in their tank. Old engine oil is not clean and shouldn't be run through your fuel system. I strongly recommend against burning old engine oil in your diesel fuel tank. It would clog your filters extremely fast, and can result in metal shavings being forced through the injectors, and many other catastrophic conditions. Just don't do it.

New, clean engine oil is possible as an additive, but you don't want a 50/50 mix or anything remotely close to that. It's not the right viscosity and won't flow correctly, but your engine will burn it. It will also increase the lubricity of your fuel. Crankcase oil has really high lubricity. It would end up being a really expensive additive though.

Diesels are called "oil burners" for a reason. When they "run away", they are burning their crankcase oil. Honestly, they will burn any oil you can get your hands on and get into the cylinders.

Q7) Has anyone been running Mobil/Exon "Synergy Fuel" and what can you share?

Their claim: "The next time you fill up your diesel car or truck, make sure to try the diesel fuel that helps improve mileage and deliver more power."(Better MPG? Engine trouble? No change?)

That's just marketing. Everyone wants to stand out and be special. Eh, I work in oil refineries for a living. They're all the same. The odds of there being anything truly unique or special about this "Synergy Fuel" is extremely low.
I've stopped at Exxon/Mobil before and used their diesel. I don't recall any differences. I don't often fill there because they are typically more expensive than other places.

And just so you know: I found this Rislone additive quiets the generator so I like using it more than Lucas. 10-20% by volume (~10oz/oil change)... The regular Rislone, not the "high mileage" version.

So you're talking about crankcase oil, not about diesel fuel, right? That's a whole different can of worms. Just remember that a quiet engine isn't necessarily a better running engine. It might sound better to you, but that doesn't mean it's better for the engine.

[imnprsd]

Thank you Ray and Ichytoe! I learned a lot by your replies.

I also think +90% of RV drivers on the road don't know what you guys just shared with the rest of us!

For example, I just assumed Diesel #1 was just another name for Winter Diesel, but with a little more effort researching this subject I now know Winter Diesel is a mixture of Diesel #1 & #2... and because paraffin (a type of wax) has been removed from the chemical mix. The absence of this chemical allows it to remain in liquid form during the winter months.

...That's not me talking. Check this website out if you want to "Understand The Differences In Diesel Fuel Grades":

Understanding The Differences Between Diesel Fuel Grades

Partial Summary of what is said in this report:

Diesel fuels are rated No. 1, 2 or 4 with No. 1 and No. 2 used most often in cars and trucks and No. 4 in locomotive engines. Marine diesel fuels are identified by letter designation such as DMA or DMX.

* Thank for emphasizing that you should NOT put old motor oil in your fuel tank. That did not sound right to me, so forget I mentioned it.

* ...But if you owned a Cummins ISC with a CAPS injection pump, would you run a gallon of cheap, clean 30W motor oil in a 100-gallon tank for added lubrication or would you use an additive or nothing at all?

CLARIFICATION: Yes... I like to use Rislone in a generator oil and I do not put Rislone in my diesel fuel tank. Sorry for mixing-up the subject matter. This thread was originally about diesel fuel and what my generator mechanic said so I slipped Rislone into my comments since I use it in my generator.

...Itchytoe: Your reply comment was: "It might sound better to you, but that doesn't mean it's better for the engine."

This is an interesting point. I always assumed a quieter running engine meant less friction, but maybe that's not the case? Please let us know why you think an additive that may quiet an engine is not ??? for your engine? I also just assumed sound a function of friction? So less sound means less friction, but I'm just guessing! What's the real story?

FYI, my Onan 7.5 Quiet Diesel Generator has a Kabota engine block, if that matters; but are you saying the sound of a Diesel engine is suppose to "slap" and worse "knock" at idle? ...I'm not a diesel motorhead and I have always been bothered by my ISC knock/slap at idle. And sometimes the tone changes! Why is that?

Note: My ISC runs great otherwise. I also I adjusted my valves at 75,000 miles ...and only found the exhaust valves on the outer end of the adjustment range, but still within tolerance. However, I did adjust back to the center of the tolerance range and my engine ran a little smoother at idle.

As for my generator it seems "happy" after I add Rislone. But you (Ichytoe) sound like you would not do that? Why?

Note: I don't run Rislone in my Cummins ISC-350 engine oil, but I did use to run Lucas until I recently switched to HyperLube.


Note: In my ISC Hyperlube almost eliminated my oil burn, which also was within Cummins guidelines before I added HyperLube, but now my ISC only burns a quart every 3,000 miles. So I'm a fan.

Anyway, FYI, I'm moving away from the Lucas brand. In fact, I also switched to using Howe's in my diesel fuel tank, because it's easier to poor; and I was tired of Lucas fuel additives because they are so thick.

LET'S TALK ABOUT FUEL ADDITIVES:

* Who likes Marvel Mystery Oil for a fuel additive and why? ...Or why you should not use this stuff?

* Who uses SeaFoam in their fuel tank; or a as a fuel filter primer when they change their fuel filters? ...Or why you should never use SeaFoam?

Note: I don't use either, but some people seem to like these two products. And I want to know why?

[NevadaNick]

Winter fuel is not always #2 mixed with #1. There are a lot of stations that treat the fuel with additives in the winter and some mix #1 and #2. Where it is extremely cold you would be best advised to run straight #1.

[Ray,IN]

imnprsd, what do you thing about that fuel additive ISO testing results? Motor oil is not formulated to burn, only 2-cycle oil is designed to burn.

Originally Posted by NevadaNick

Winter fuel is not always #2 mixed with #1. There are a lot of stations that treat the fuel with additives in the winter and some mix #1 and #2. Where it is extremely cold you would be best advised to run straight #1.

Or, a 5-1 mixture of #2 diesel and kerosene in sub-zero weather. The downside is, kerosene is not road-taxed, the pump usually has a very short hose to prevent filling a vehicle, requiring one to fill a 5G can, then pour that into the diesel fuel tank.(out of sight of others)

[Itchytoe]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

For example, I just assumed Diesel #1 was just another name for Winter Diesel, but with a little more effort researching this subject I now know Winter Diesel is a mixture of Diesel #1 & #2... and because paraffin (a type of wax) has been removed from the chemical mix. The absence of this chemical allows it to remain in liquid form during the winter months.

Fuels are chemical cocktails, not single chemicals. Water, for example, is 100% H2O. Gasoline, however, doesn't have a chemical composition like that. It's a blend of napthas, olefins and paraffins basically. Basically a bunch of hydrocarbons with between 4 and 12 carbon atoms per molecule.
Diesel is similar. It's a mixture of hydrocarbons. It's a heavier mixture though. It has hydrocarbons between 10 and 25 carbon atoms per molecule. That's why there's more energy in diesel than in gasoline, but also why it's harder to burn.
The paraffins in diesel are some of the bigger molecules. They give diesel a lot of it's energy density. When they switch to winter blends, they don't remove all of the paraffins. They just adjust the ratios to lower the gelling point. Kinda like the anti-freeze in your radiator. You don't want pure anti-freeze, or pure water. You can adjust the ratio from 50/50 to 60/40 and it changes the freezing point of the mixture.

* ...But if you owned a Cummins ISC with a CAPS injection pump, would you run a gallon of cheap, clean 30W motor oil in a 100-gallon tank for added lubrication or would you use an additive or nothing at all?

I would mostly likely run nothing at all, but if I did use an additive, it would be Power Service's Diesel Kleen. Grey for summer and white for winter.

...Itchytoe: Your reply comment was: "It might sound better to you, but that doesn't mean it's better for the engine."

This is an interesting point. I always assumed a quieter running engine meant less friction, but maybe that's not the case? Please let us know why you think an additive that may quiet an engine is not ??? for your engine? I also just assumed sound a function of friction? So less sound means less friction, but I'm just guessing! What's the real story?

Crankcase oil lubricates and removes heat. It isn't just lubrication contrary to popular belief. In order to move heat around, you have to have enough flow. Oil travels in a big loop basically. It is pumped to the hot parts then falls down to the sump and gets pumped up again. A thin oil is best at moving heat, but not as great at staying where it's pumped to protect things. A thick oil is great at staying put, but not so great at removing heat. Your engine oil has to do both.
A common trick to quiet down a noisy engine is to use an oil that has a higher viscosity. (10W40 instead of the factory recommended 0-30) Unfortunately, it just masks problems while making them worse. It can produce hot spots that can basically turn the oil into varnish. Once that happens, heat transfer rates drop and it gets hotter, making the problem worse again, and the loop continues. But the higher weight oil does make it quieter.

FYI, my Onan 7.5 Quiet Diesel Generator has a Kabota engine block, if that matters; but are you saying the sound of a Diesel engine is suppose to "slap" and worse "knock" at idle? ...I'm not a diesel motorhead and I have always been bothered by my ISC knock/slap at idle. And sometimes the tone changes! Why is that?

Load! Plain and simple. Diesel engines make different noises at different RPMs under different loads and air-to-fuel ratios. Want it as quiet as possible? Give it as much air as you can with a moderate load under steady RPM. She'll purr like a kitten all day long. Want some funny knocks and taps and slaps? Give it barely enough air and rev it without load. It'll sound like you dropped a bag of rocks.

My last few trucks have been diesel. Different engines, but they all make funny noises with different throttle inputs. Sometimes I find myself adjusting my speed and throttle position just to change the tone of the engine. Slow down as you approach a red light with your foot off the throttle, then get on it and accelerate from 20 mph and you'll hear all kinds of clacking and clanging for a second. Once the turbo spools up and she can breathe again, and the engine revs enough to get a load and you're accelerating again, it'll be nice and smooth sounding. If you give it just a little fuel while slowing down (not enough to accelerate, just a little) it'll make a totally different noise until it can get the air and load it wants. Diesels need to work. They aren't happy at an idle.

As for my generator it seems "happy" after I add Rislone. But you (Ichytoe) sound like you would not do that? Why?

I wouldn't worry about a diesel engine making a little noise at an idle. If it does it at 1500 RPM under load, then you might want to have a mechanic look at it. At an idle, it shouldn't be excessive, but I don't expect it to idle like a gasoline engine. They just don't work the same way.
If you're happy with your Rislone stuff, don't let me rain on your parade. Go ahead and use it.

Note: In my ISC Hyperlube almost eliminated my oil burn, which also was within Cummins guidelines before I added HyperLube, but now my ISC only burns a quart every 3,000 miles. So I'm a fan.

Anyway, FYI, I'm moving away from the Lucas brand. In fact, I also switched to using Howe's in my diesel fuel tank, because it's easier to poor; and I was tired of Lucas fuel additives because they are so thick.

I've never been a fan of Lucas's additives. Then again, I've never used an additive regularly. If that HyperLube stuff is helping, by all means keep using it.

* Who uses SeaFoam in their fuel tank; or a as a fuel filter primer when they change their fuel filters? ...Or why you should never use SeaFoam?

Note: I don't use either, but some people seem to like these two products. And I want to know why?

I've used SeaFoam before in gasoline vehicles. Didn't really notice a difference in the fuel tank or in the crankcase. I did the thing where you suck it into the intake to clean out injectors. It seemed to help a bit at the time, but I can't say it wasn't just the placebo effect. I was young and not exactly the brightest bulb in the pack at the time. I doubt I'll be using it again.