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Old 02-18-2021, 02:04 AM   #29
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Great ideas, thank you!
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Old 02-18-2021, 01:20 PM   #30
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Start at the source to start getting things thawed near pump and feed line. Most likely not froze everywhere yet. Use light bulbs, small heaters, or a hair dryer. Plastic lines take a while longer than copper to thaw out.
It takes a long time to freeze insulated HW tank solid where the ice will expand. Posters shouldn't just tell you it's screwed just because there may be a short line froze stopping flow. I have an old house with crawl. I can usually tell just by touching a copper pipe if it's froze. Once just grabbing the pipe was enough to warm up ice and thaw it. When helping others with recent frozen pipes I always find cold draft in affected area first and start there.
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Old 02-25-2021, 02:55 PM   #31
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two neighbors had their pipes and drains freeze
One was an airstream
The other was a 5th wheel

both rented industrial kerosene area heaters
The had them outside blowing heat below their rigs
The air steam said it thawed all his stuff in a half hour
The 5th wheel had it blowing for several hours before it thawed it all out
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Old 02-25-2021, 03:40 PM   #32
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Miss Breezy if you know where the tank is on the coach is there a storage compartment next to it? you might be able to access the line possibly. in mobile home setup we put heat tape on the supply lines that are exposed. Again if you can access that area go buy some heat tape and wrap the line. they all have a thermostat that comes on when the temp is below 32. that would at least keep your supply line working and if you put it next to your pump it should keep the pump from freezing.
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Old 02-25-2021, 04:01 PM   #33
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Miss Breezy, I am currently living in my motor home in MA. Weíve had a relatively mild winter but have had some very cold nights. I run my tank heaters, keep my inside heat at about 70, run my hot water tank on propane and open the under sink cabinets. I have an area in the rear drivers side corner, under the shower and by my water pump and near the inlet to the fresh tank that seems to be vulnerable to the cold. I woke up one morning to no water. I placed a heater in the shower and had water about 3 hours later. Since then, on very cold nights, I have put a small electric heater in the storage bay beside that area to manage the temperature on nights below 30. There is a wall between the compartment and the water pump but it seems to be warm enough to make a difference. The heater has an automatic shut off if it tips. I place it on a patio stone and turn it on low heat and medium fan. It has worked perfectly. I have isolated the heater and keep anything combustible in another area. I know I should knock on wood. My hot water tank has worked perfectly. I spoke with one of the guys at the dealer who explained my water system to me. It appears my water lines are enclosed as is my fresh tank and that one spot is the only area thatís been questionable. Even with my black and gray tank heaters, my outlet drain has frozen twice so Iíve had to use a heat tape to be able to dump. It hasnít been easy every day but itís been doable. My husband died a year after we bought this motor home. Itís not the one I wanted and Iíve grumbled at him a few times this winter, but weíre still on speaking terms. ;-). Best of luck to you!
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Old 02-25-2021, 04:47 PM   #34
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Goodness!

A full-timer since '12. Live where temps can get down to, then stay around 20 degrees. With this in mind...

Can't imagine an RV with the heat on that would ever have a freeze up issue, WITHIN the coach. As with most larger parks like this one I'm settled into, not difficult to hear about problems that are unique to the area. Freezing being one. Never heard once about one of my neighbors springing a leak, who did the following.

With some rigs offering their water connection within an unprotected cabinet, combined with an unprotected water outlet the park provides, all but bet my life it's here you must focus your attention. All to follow assumes you're at a park as am I...

You should have, at a minimum, the 120 volt outlet that you can plug "heat tape" into. As well, wrapping any lines with heat tape, within the unprotected cabinet is required. Some use methods like a heat bulb under a covering, but I can't escape my fear of the fire potential. Near zero danger with heat tape.

This offered, there can be deep freezes that will overcome the heat tape. Impacting you of course, by no water coming out. If the RV carry's water, turning on the pump, helps! And, if that deep freeze lasts for days, best to check that cabinet plumbing for bulges.

Closing with deep appreciation for those willing to share their knowledge. But...

The only benefit from "letting the water run", is that it might buy you a bit of time before the outside supply outlet freezes up. I submit, please don't waste water believing it will stop most freezing of water!! When the pipes underground freeze, when the outside unprotected feed line freezes, all faucets could be running full blast & water coming to a stop it will.

You see, I live in a high desert where water is indeed a precious commodity. A view I carry clear across the country & back. Always seems shameful, when wasted.
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Old 02-25-2021, 04:54 PM   #35
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Miss Breezy --

Glad to know your "freeze-up" problem is solved! When you have a chance, please create a "signature block" such as mine below that shows the year, manufacturer and model of your RV. With that information the many great forum members can provide better, more precise help.

Also for cold weather use of your RV in an RV park/resort, don't be afraid of using a heat traced, insulated water hose connected to the park's utility post. Camco makes a heated water hose but it is expensive --> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Tas...b452dc2dea97cc

Or a DIY heated water hose can be made for a much cheaper price. For a 25 foot long water hose, purchase a 30 foot, flat, wrap on heat cable such as this one --> https://www.amazon.com/WRAP-Pipe-Hea.../dp/B0002YWMM8 Lay the heat cable parallel to the hose and secure to the hose with high temperature electrical tape (secure about every 1-foot). Then insulate the hose/heat cable with 3/4" gray foam pipe insulation. The "extra" five feet of heat cable is attached to the water faucet and pipe on the utility post (if none exists). I learned this DIY method from contract construction managers working for my on major capital projects. My DIY heated water hose served me well for two years in the Texas Panhandle when winter night time temps dropped a low as -15 F. I never filled my fresh water tank during those two years that was in a 30 foot travel trailer I previously owned.


Mr. Google actually found a blog showing the DIY steps of making a heated water hose --> https://accidentalsnowbirds.com/diy-...ed-water-hose/

Hope this helps!
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Old 02-25-2021, 08:08 PM   #36
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I am getting into this conversation late. Many towns have a tool rental store. Go rent a salamander heater and blow the heat under your RV. I don't think it will take long to thaw everything out. Hopefully the damage isn't already done.
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Old 02-26-2021, 02:22 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonnaMP View Post
Miss Breezy, I am currently living in my motor home in MA. My husband died a year after we bought this motor home. It’s not the one I wanted and I’ve grumbled at him a few times this winter, but we’re still on speaking terms. ;-). Best of luck to you!
There is nothing I can add to your response to Miss Breezy as far as constructive advise in handling the circumstance of frozen plumbing, what I would like to know is what long distance service do you have! LOL nicely phrase.

I take that back, the one piece of advise that I have is for those that camp in cold weather go buy two remote thermometers, mount them as close to your sensitive to temperature areas and mount the receiving units as you would an important device. Track your indoor/outdoor temps during extreme weather events and then you’ll be able to anticipate a problem before it becomes a major one like freezing up an AquaHot unit.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:51 PM   #38
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I've found a Hair Dryer helpful in thawing my dump valves when in Mina Nv. for one night..78* in Death Valley the next day..
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Old 02-27-2021, 04:06 AM   #39
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As for my long distance service, I talk to him the old fashioned way. I just have to be confident he hears me, especially when I’m grumbling. �� Good advice about the thermometers. Thank you. This site is very special for others being so willing to be helpful and thoughtful.
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Old 02-27-2021, 04:12 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by stuccosteve View Post
There is nothing I can add to your response to Miss Breezy as far as constructive advise in handling the circumstance of frozen plumbing, what I would like to know is what long distance service do you have! LOL nicely phrase.

I take that back, the one piece of advise that I have is for those that camp in cold weather go buy two remote thermometers, mount them as close to your sensitive to temperature areas and mount the receiving units as you would an important device. Track your indoor/outdoor temps during extreme weather events and then youíll be able to anticipate a problem before it becomes a major one like freezing up an AquaHot unit.
I just use the old fashioned method of communication, sometimes louder than others. 😉 Thank you for the thermometer suggestion. Great idea. The helpful suggestions from others on this site is what makes it a great one!
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Old 02-27-2021, 01:05 PM   #41
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Buy small ceramic heater, set at lowest setting (50degrees)
And put one in the wet bay and one in the basement near
Middle if possible

You may have to fish an AC extension cord into the wet bay
Via the WD or that cabinet. You can also just plug the wet bay
Heater into the electric post outside, wrap a towel around it where
It comes throught, to get the heat loss down.
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Old 02-27-2021, 03:26 PM   #42
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Always keep at least one hair dryer so you can put gentle heat right where you might need it,
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