Fuel additive

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Dagwood

Ray what I did not see in that report was the score for additized diesel fuel. If the lubicity additive has been put in at the refinery why add anything?

When you research diesel fuel quality in Europe and compare their fuel standards to North American standards you quickly become aware North America has the lowest standards, barely the minimum required by diesel engine manufacturers. Diesel fuel additives are not added until after the fuel arrives at the terminal, not until after it has exited the pipelines. This is because those additives will coat the pipeline walls and the following product will become "contaminated". This means human error can interject itself by someone forgetting to add the additives.
I found all this information on the internet.
The most common and cheapest diesel fuel additive to replace lubricity is bio-diesel, usually B2 (2%), although it is usually not stated as such.
Until my primitive research this past weekend I did not use additives, per engine manufacturers recommendations. That research changed my mind and I will now use commercial additives.

[Triker56]

Opti-Lub summer Blend 1 oz to 24-25 gal.
It came in 4th place in the Test. And is the cheapest per gal. to add.

[FreeByrd]

I have run Amsoil in my '03 Dually Duramax and 2 Harleys for over 8 years but when it came to Diesel Fuel Lubricity in the face of this blind study that I shortcut on the 4th reply in this thread, I had to change from the Amsoil Diesel Concentrate which I had used for several years (@ $2.85/34 Gal. tank) to the Opti-Lube summer blend (@ $0.88/34 Gal tank). I would be using 2% Bio-Diesel, as the study shows, but rarely can even find it in our travels.
Have been pulling a 20,000 lb. 3 axle KZ Escalade Toyhauler for 3 years "Full Timing" and still swear by Amsoil products. . . . just not the cost or lubricating effectiveness of their Diesel Concentrate's lubricity when it produced a 9+% larger wear scar in testing and costs another $2/tank.
It, like many of the other Additives in the study which I use, do a fine job stabilizing fuel, cleaning injectors and increasing cetane.

[hooverbill]

The OP asked about a fuel additive for storing his fuel, that has nothing to do with lubrication. He needs a biocide to kill the algae that will grow in the water that gets into the fuel. Here is a good one: VALVTECT BioGuard Fuel Micro-Biocide at West Marine

[MegaRoadie]

Just a thought here...had a 1981 Peugeot Turbo Diesel, over nearly 20 years and 485,000 miles the ONLY additive I ever used was the cheapest Auto Transmission Fluid I could buy. Was told by Peugeot Factory Rep that ATF has an extremely aggressive biocide/algaecide as it is designed to stay in tranny for multiple years and prohibit any growth. It also "burns" at higher temp than standard #1 or #2 Diesel fuel and as such lubes and cleans fuel injectors and exhaust valves. After 485,000 miles I gave the Peugeot to my oldest son as a wedding gift for his new bride to drive as it was built like a tank and extremely safe when the "worst" came upon you. They operated the olde gal for another 120,000 miles and when he sold it the first person that test drove it bought it for $4,000.00 !

Having had that experience I continued to use the ATF in my 93 C/K 3500 SRW-4WD Chevy 6.5 Turbo Diesel. Ran like a new one for 165,000 miles, I believe it helped me get 11.5 to 16 MPG towing an 18,000 GVW KA 5er.

Most diesel manufacturers will tell you straight up that additives are unnecessary so long as you follow common sense rules... keep tank full, use reputable high volume turnover stations and avoid fueling when the delivery truck is in the lot, change the darned filters as recommended, and use recommended filters !

Long-term storage would be the only situation that would bring concern, but then 8 oz of ATF per 30 gallons diesel will stop cold any growth in the tank.

Enjoy the diesel, keep tank filled and stay on the road !!!

[bluepill]

Just a note on ATF use. While it may be OK in Pre-2007 engines (I can't say either way), It may not be compatible with ULSD specs. Just the same way that leaded gas isn't compatible with cayalyst-equipped vehicles. I'd err on the side of caution - a DPF exhaust is thousands of dollars to replace.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by hooverbill

The OP asked about a fuel additive for storing his fuel, that has nothing to do with lubrication. He needs a biocide to kill the algae that will grow in the water that gets into the fuel. Here is a good one: VALVTECT BioGuard Fuel Micro-Biocide at West Marine

As I think I explained in a previous reply. Algae will not be an issue if you keep the tank full in cold or rapidly changing temperatures. Only buy fuel from high-volume stations that use a water filter on the hose/pump. Algae only grows at the line where water and diesel fuel meet, no other place. Keep water/moisture out and you keep algae growth out. If you must use a biocide in diesel fuel to kill algae, you failed to do one of those steps.

[Cat320]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

As I think I explained in a previous reply. Algae will not be an issue if you keep the tank full in cold or rapidly changing temperatures. Only buy fuel from high-volume stations that use a water filter on the hose/pump. Algae only grows at the line where water and diesel fuel meet, no other place. Keep water/moisture out and you keep algae growth out. If you must use a biocide in diesel fuel to kill algae, you failed to do one of those steps.

Going to have to disagree with you on this one. A lot depends on where the vehicle will be stored. I have a boat with a diesel...sits out uncovered on a lake 24/7/365. All the diesel owners top the tank, add a stabilizer and use a biocide. Even with the tank full, seven months of storage is a gamble without a biocide and stabilizer. Only takes a small space for condensation to form. If the truck is inside, might be okay, if outside, I'd use a biocide to CYA.