Garage extension

[teamnash-rv]

Folks,

We are looking to extend the length on our garage from 32 to 37 or 40'. I'd like input on the process we should use to extend the garage? Architect followed by structural engineer to come up with the plans?

We are in the market for a longer RV and hence need the additional length.

Let me know if additional clarification is needed.

Thanks,
Rich

[Clomok]

Edited: Glenn below pretty much summed it up

[Glenn and Kathy]

Don't see that to be a big problem, any qualified builder should be able come up with a plan. Pour new floor tied to the old floor with drilled rebar connection and continue structure of garage to match current construction, assuming the current structure is solid and meets code. Also assuming you are adding to length not width.

Glenn

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by Clomok

I’ve seen them done for 1-2’, but adding 5-8 feet sounds like a bad idea, weight, trailer structure a stability will be thrown way off. What’s the reasoning for a extension vs getting a new trailer th fit your needs

He's talking about the S&B garage not a toy hauler.

[Clomok]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

He's talking about the S&B garage not a toy hauler.

/facepalm...Ahh haha that’s what I get for quickly reading...yea, it’s easy enough to do

[carl.swoyer]

Originally Posted by teamnash-rv

Folks,



We are looking to extend the length on our garage from 32 to 37 or 40'. I'd like input on the process we should use to extend the garage? Architect followed by structural engineer to come up with the plans?



We are in the market for a longer RV and hence need the additional length.



Let me know if additional clarification is needed.



Thanks,

Rich

What is the existing garage?
What does it look like.
If it's a slab and metal building then you can cut/remove panels and open the rear. From there you can change the length .

[2002guy]

Add as much as you can these r/vs tend to get bigger as you go along you probably don't want to do it again for your next rig.

[RKins]

You definitely need to add 5-10 feet to the worse case you could buy - say 45 ft. Then allow for towbar, maybe you have a surge brake on the towbar that adds another foot - I have a spare tire carrier on my hitch +2 ft, you want to be able to walk behind the rig and check the oil, etc.

[teamnash-rv]

Thanks everyone for your responses.

Since I have a hip roof I think extending will be a little more complicated.

Here are a couple of images.





Let me know if the images do not show up.

Current garage length is 32.5'

I suspect I'll need a building permit from the county which will likely require an engineering firm to signoff.

Regards,
Rich

[redhooker]

Hip vs gabled end not a ton of difference in overall cost. You likely need more than an engineer sign off- here locally we would need:
Site surveys, 2 copies stamped of existing and 2 copies stamped of proposed
2 stamped blueprints
2 stamped roof engineering (from truss supplier)
All building department application forms
Notice of commencement
List of licensed subs if used (just the big ones-electrical, plumbers, roofing)

The truss company can engineer the additional area as a stub out with new hip end and the tie-in to existing can be conventional framed or engineered to be installed over existing. They will need the floorplan print and existing roof pitch and soffit overhang.

Anyways, not much difference with your hip roof but I have a feeling that if you are asking advice here you really need to speak to a local builder as doing this the right way has a ton of other details I could not address here. Good luck and talk to at least 3 different contractors.

[teamnash-rv]

Originally Posted by redhooker

Hip vs gabled end not a ton of difference in overall cost. You likely need more than an engineer sign off- here locally we would need:
Site surveys, 2 copies stamped of existing and 2 copies stamped of proposed
2 stamped blueprints
2 stamped roof engineering (from truss supplier)
All building department application forms
Notice of commencement
List of licensed subs if used (just the big ones-electrical, plumbers, roofing)

The truss company can engineer the additional area as a stub out with new hip end and the tie-in to existing can be conventional framed or engineered to be installed over existing. They will need the floorplan print and existing roof pitch and soffit overhang.

Anyways, not much difference with your hip roof but I have a feeling that if you are asking advice here you really need to speak to a local builder as doing this the right way has a ton of other details I could not address here. Good luck and talk to at least 3 different contractors.

Thanks for your recommendations. I do need to talk to several local builders to educate myself on what needs to done to formulate a plan.

rich

[Dav L]

Dependent on codes and your existing home...any decent framer (non architect, non engineer) can do that kind of work. The trusses would need to be engineered (if trusses are used).

I would lean first on engineer and then take that input to the architect if the architect isn't already an engineer as well. This is if the current structure is complicated which most are not.

Was considering expanding my pole barn for RV, which is even easier than expanding a house garage (less finish work, less structure complexity). Backed out as not sure how long I'll keep the S&B. The next one will have a kick butt barn...

[ThePowells]

We are getting ready to extend ours by 55 feet. We currently have zero.