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12-15-2022, 09:21 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 76
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HELP! Need quick opinions on winterizing and freeze damage?
I have a couple campers coming up at auction tomorrow. I have to make some decisions. It is very much complicated by not being able to test the rigs at all PLUS I have verified they have not been winterized!!!
Now, I do believe my current rig I bought about this time, was not winterized, I got in a life matter and it just at in my drive until Spring. It ran perfect and still to this day.
But I wanted to get both good and bad experiences with this. It is 100% certain these have been subjected to very cold temps already. I have seen freeze do some very odd things. Sort of like lightning. I am SO friggin frustrated that only $15 would have helped me bid more. But there is always an idiot in the bidding war....and he will likely escape with no drama....it's just my luck in life....
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12-15-2022, 09:43 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 937
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Of course, no one could tell you if either rig will have freeze damage. So many variables and not enough information. Only safe assumption is there will be some issues that will cost something.
I bought a new demo model class c 20 years ago in wintertime. It was supposed to be winterized. Well, somewhat. They left the faucets shut off and drained the lines while overlooking the sink drains. I got to replace the freeze broken faucets and p-traps. Not too bad.
The really bad comes in if a waterline splits in a wall. Can happen, hope not. Some RV's are better insulated than others and may hold the warmth of the day better into the night. If you know one of the units you're considering is more insulated, maybe favor it. It's a dice roll.
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12-15-2022, 09:56 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 76
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I guess I am not asking IF there will be freeze damage, just asking for experiences as Code2 provided. Yeah, I am thinking like worst case scenario. Plus one has washer/dryer. I am thinking WH tank, traps, etc. On one of them I realized the damn fresh water tank was not even drained so I grabbed tools and just did it.
Both rigs have PEX, which can handle a lot. I am more looking at fittings and hard to reach areas where the drama could happen.
As far as insulated rigs, these have not been used in months, no heat or anything. Wildwest BS, but auctioneers will dazzle the less informed. I am just trying to see how bad this could be here..
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12-15-2022, 10:10 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 937
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It takes a lot longer for a container of water to freeze. Like the water heater tank or holding tanks. Lines, fixtures and traps will freeze first.
If the RV sits unused in the daytime sun, it can become fairly warm inside if windows and vents are shut. That is where insulation comes in. How long that warmth lasts overnite.
If you have access to these rigs, see if they will let you open the low point drains and leave all faucets turned on. Maybe even pour some pink stuff in the sink and shower drains. Only takes a quart each.
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12-15-2022, 10:28 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by code2e
It takes a lot longer for a container of water to freeze. Like the water heater tank or holding tanks. Lines, fixtures and traps will freeze first.
If the RV sits unused in the daytime sun, it can become fairly warm inside if windows and vents are shut. That is where insulation comes in. How long that warmth lasts overnite.
If you have access to these rigs, see if they will let you open the low point drains and leave all faucets turned on. Maybe even pour some pink stuff in the sink and shower drains. Only takes a quart each.
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yeah, think -5F temps coming next week with highs not above freezing. 100% certain they are going to freeze up good.
I already had access to them and yes, I open ever faucet I could find and did what I could. I could not get the plugs out of the HW tanks without more effort. To be honest, damaged traps are about the least of my concern. I am thinking appliances and water lines that are impossible to reach.
but somehow I have escaped all this so far with my own rigs, knowing full well they were froze good enough the ****** valve no worky and black tank was trying to plug up.
My hope is if I buy one, I will race my azz over there tomorrow and get the IV started asap. Our weather is about to get serious cold so I won't have time to waste.
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12-16-2022, 07:16 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,569
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What are the units you are considering?. Some brands might be better at resisting freeze than others.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastline
I have a couple campers coming up at auction tomorrow. I have to make some decisions. It is very much complicated by not being able to test the rigs at all PLUS I have verified they have not been winterized!!!
Now, I do believe my current rig I bought about this time, was not winterized, I got in a life matter and it just at in my drive until Spring. It ran perfect and still to this day.
But I wanted to get both good and bad experiences with this. It is 100% certain these have been subjected to very cold temps already. I have seen freeze do some very odd things. Sort of like lightning. I am SO friggin frustrated that only $15 would have helped me bid more. But there is always an idiot in the bidding war....and he will likely escape with no drama....it's just my luck in life.... 
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__________________
George Schweikle Lexington, KY
2005 Safari (Monaco)Trek 28RB2, Workhorse W20, 8.1, Allison 1000 5 spd, UltraPower engine & tranny, Track bars & sway bars, KONI FSD, FMCA 190830, Safari Int'l. chapter. 1999 Safari Trek 2830, 1995 Safari Trek 2430, 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, 1976 Midas Mini
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12-17-2022, 07:40 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 28,553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastline
I guess I am not asking IF there will be freeze damage, just asking for experiences as Code2 provided. Yeah, I am thinking like worst case scenario. Plus one has washer/dryer. I am thinking WH tank, traps, etc. On one of them I realized the damn fresh water tank was not even drained so I grabbed tools and just did it.
Both rigs have PEX, which can handle a lot. I am more looking at fittings and hard to reach areas where the drama could happen.
As far as insulated rigs, these have not been used in months, no heat or anything. Wildwest BS, but auctioneers will dazzle the less informed. I am just trying to see how bad this could be here..
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Yes PEX will stand some freezing water, BUT, the fitting will not be so forgiving.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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12-17-2022, 09:15 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 76
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Mission complete. Winterized just in time but not without damage. Damn toilet valve was spraying, could see ice in the clear water filter housing, and pump took work to get it going finally without damage.
I have zero clue how to winterize a front load washer but I did what I could with the toilet drama and limited time. I started a wash cycle with "'warm" water, hoping it would pop both values for a bit, then opened the bottom filter unit and I did get some red antifreeze there. Probably not the best winterize on this but I wasted time just trying to make the damn washer do something. I know my LGs and I just put them in service mode and force what mode I want.
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12-17-2022, 09:53 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 336
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It looks like folks have addressed the potential issues with freezing and I realize that you probably don't have time for most of the items on this list with the new rigs, but I've used it with good success when purchasing a used RV.
The list is meant for a pre-delivery check list, but works well for a reminder to check things when buying used.
Master pre delivery inspection.pdf
__________________
2021 Ram 3500 HO CC LB 4WD Tradehorn
2017 Arctic Fox 25W
HAM guy (Ke7FIX), Retired Robotics Technician, USAF DAV
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12-17-2022, 10:11 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastline
Mission complete. Winterized just in time but not without damage. Damn toilet valve was spraying, could see ice in the clear water filter housing, and pump took work to get it going finally without damage.
I have zero clue how to winterize a front load washer but I did what I could with the toilet drama and limited time. I started a wash cycle with "'warm" water, hoping it would pop both values for a bit, then opened the bottom filter unit and I did get some red antifreeze there. Probably not the best winterize on this but I wasted time just trying to make the damn washer do something. I know my LGs and I just put them in service mode and force what mode I want.
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Glad for not too much freeze damage. I am sorry for not thinking of the toilet water valve. May have helped to hold the flush down for a bit, allow the line to drain out like a faucet.
Only thing I know about the washer would be to remove the flex lines and leave the faucets open to drain out. Shouldn't be much water in the washer itself.
Hope you are happy with the coach.
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12-17-2022, 10:20 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 714
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Expected Value probable cost
thinking back to a model for estimating probabilities from PERT back in the 70's
Expected cost = ((least likely cost x1)+(most likely case cost x4)+(worst case cost x1))/6
It by no means will be exact or accurate but its better than a pure guess
e.g. Expected cost =(($500 x1)+($1000 x4)+($2000 x1))/6=$1084
I'm assuming coach damage only not motorhome engine damage
You plug in your best guess numbers.
This is my suggestion
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12-20-2022, 06:18 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 7,544
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Well there are lines to the washer dryer and trap. I use pink . First open lower right lint trap on a towel. Cycle hot the cold to make sure both valves work move timer to before spin and pump /push out into the trap. I'll do it twice. First to get out old water ,than pump out undiluted pink. Usually go through about 1/2 gal just to be safe. The discharge hose , lint trap and drain trap probable need a quart for sure.
Watch the floor below to make sure no leaks. My rubber hose gaskets leaked once. Next time I pulled on the door while locked and door leaked on me.
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