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09-02-2018, 09:01 AM
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#15
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,563
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The only reason to brake hard and release is to allow the brakes time to cool when they must be used for a long, hard stop. Like down a mile long 6% grade. I hope your normal stops are much less severe, i.e. you both look well ahead and plan your stops to be slow and smooth. That makes coasting plus light and steady braking the preferred and most effective technique.
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Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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09-02-2018, 09:04 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Rigby, Idaho
Posts: 3,902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21
Normal conditions - smooth steady pressure. Pretend you have a bowl of goldfish on the dashboard.
Slick road conditions - smooth steady, avoid braking while in a curve or turn.
Long steep descents - allow engine to do majority of braking. If needed, hard stabs to quickly lower speed, then off the brakes to allow them to cool. Continuous riding of brakes will overheat them, followed by complete lose of brakes.
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two
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Cheers,
TonyMac
2006 Monaco Safari Cheetah 40PMT
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09-02-2018, 11:27 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Pelham (Birmingham) AL
Posts: 400
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The "right" style is a limo stop. You get on the brakes enough to slow you down, as as you slow you continuously remove pressure from the brake pedal. As you come to a complete stop you will have almost no pressure on the pedal. This kind of stop removes any "shock rebound" where the front dives and the rear end raises, and then jerks back to the normal at-rest condition.
Once you get this down pat, stops will be completely smooth without any jostling of any kind. Of course, in some situations this is impossible. But the further you "look ahead" the less likely an emergency/panic stop will be required/used. Instead of a glass of champagne or something, think about a saucer of milk, almost full. Don't spill it.
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Bob Hyatt
2018 Tiffin Allegro 32SA
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09-02-2018, 02:40 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 3,009
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Good advice from Jake21 and Bob Hyatt.
Becoming a good driver involves a lot more than knowing the best techniques for braking. It really requires developing the situational awareness to recognize what and when to apply the proper techniques.
I learned how to fly an airplane smoothly as an air ambulance pilot, an executive charter pilot and later as an airline pilot. The key was always to "be(think) ahead of the aircraft."
I learned how to drive smoothly as a limo driver during the times I was on furlough from my airline and needed to keep food on the table and a roof over our heads.
I made a game with myself of trying to make it so the passengers in the limo couldn't tell when we started or stopped moving. A light foot on the accelerator was the key when starting to move.
While moving look well down the road looking for other vehicles entering the road who might roll through a stop sign or might fail to stop when turning "right on red" in front of you. Also important is paying attention to the traffic lights. When you're driving ahead of your vehicle you learn to read the lights. For example, if you're a long way from a light when it turns green and you see it, as you should, you can anticipate it might be a "stale green" about to turn red as you approach it. A good driver will be prepared and not be caught by surprise if it turns red.
I hope y'all get the idea.
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2005 Monaco Knight 40PLQ; Cummins 8.3L ISC330, Pacbrake, Allison 3000, Roadmaster RR8R, ScanGauge D, 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750(Geezer Glide) on a Versahaul carrier pulling a 2013 Kia Soul+; 2.0L, 6 speed Sport shifter(great car) on an American Car Dolly(great dolly.)
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09-02-2018, 09:45 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21
Normal conditions - smooth steady pressure. Pretend you have a bowl of goldfish on the dashboard.
Slick road conditions - smooth steady, avoid braking while in a curve or turn.
Long steep descents - allow engine to do majority of braking. If needed, hard stabs to quickly lower speed, then off the brakes to allow them to cool. Continuous riding of brakes will overheat them, followed by complete lose of brakes.
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looks like someone has studied the cdl manual. on a long grade i pick my speed, let it get 10 mph over and then brake for about 5 seconds however hard it needs to be to get back below my picked speed. also called snub braking.
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