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Old 06-18-2020, 01:43 AM   #1
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How to change the propane filler valve

Hello!! I have a class A MH and I smell propane when I go into my RV garage, I have checked the lines and do not see a leak, I do hear pressure from the filler valve when I take the plastic cap off I think this might be the issue, also I have the valve close at all times while in storage. What is the safest way to remove this valve I still have about 1/2 tank of propane any help would be appreciated!! Thank You
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Old 06-18-2020, 05:05 AM   #2
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You need to empty the tank to replace the valve but they sell a emergency adaptor that gets screwed onto the leaking one.

Just make sure the person filling the tank doesn't take it with him after filling.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-18-2020, 08:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
You need to empty the tank to replace the valve but they sell a emergency adaptor that gets screwed onto the leaking one.

Just make sure the person filling the tank doesn't take it with him after filling.Attachment 290015
Good advice
I have had one on a 1150 gallon tank for 20 years or so

I put it on with LPG rated pipe dope and gently tightened the threads with channel locks
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Old 06-18-2020, 08:29 AM   #4
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I should add a good propane delivery company has an adapter on his truck in case of a leaking valve they can't poke and seat
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Old 06-18-2020, 02:41 PM   #5
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I keep one of these on my RV tank at all times after experiencing a fill situation where the fill nozzle got stuck and it took half an hour or so for the guys working there to get it loose from my coach. If that should happen again they could just unscrew the stacker valve.
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Old 06-18-2020, 04:02 PM   #6
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You can always try to spray some soapy water on it and see if it bubbles from the cap.

If you're sure its leaking from the cap then disregard the rest of this post.

I had a propane leak that I thought was the tank and it ended up being the gas valve regulator for the water heater. Shorty after I repaired that I had another leak from the gas valve regulator for the heater. It took some sniffing around to find out where the leak was coming from but each time I thought originally it was the propane tank.
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Old 06-19-2020, 01:49 AM   #7
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Hello Twinboat!! Thanks for the information can you tell me what the emergency adaptor is called?? I looked on line and could only find an extension. Do you happen to know the part number?? Thanks for the help!!!
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Old 06-19-2020, 04:02 AM   #8
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Hello Twinboat!! Thanks for the information can you tell me what the emergency adaptor is called?? I looked on line and could only find an extension. Do you happen to know the part number?? Thanks for the help!!!
Seen a expensive but here it is.
https://propanewarehouse.com/shop/pr...valve-adapter/
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Old 06-19-2020, 11:12 AM   #9
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Here is one for a bit less on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marshall-Ex...e/273822903832 Note they make 3 versions of this, a solid one, a swivel end, and one with a bleed valve I think. Model numbers are Marshall Excelisor ME570 (solid body, I think), ME572 (swivel end) , and ME574 (bleed vent valve)
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Old 06-20-2020, 02:43 AM   #10
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Hello again!

Thank You!! I appreciate all of your help!!

Have a great safe weekend!!!
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Old 06-21-2020, 02:34 PM   #11
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Just asking here. Are you sure it is propane? I looked for a couple of days for a leak and discovered that what I was smelling was a battery going bad
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Old 06-21-2020, 09:15 PM   #12
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I had my fill valve replaced by the LP company that fills my 1,000G tank at home. I think total cost was <$200.

Be advised, if your ASME tank was manufactured by Bruner Engineering, they were bought by Marshall Gas. The square adapter bolted onto the tank that the valve screws into is cast iron and not available. If it breaks/cracks, plan on having a new adapter made from steel at a machine shop, using the old one as a pattern.


That LP company would not pump out my tank, saying they had nowhere to put it; since it could be contaminated they could not pump it into their storage tank.
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Old 06-22-2020, 01:56 AM   #13
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Hello!! I'm pretty sure is not a bad battery I just replaced all of my 6 batteries last month!! But thanks for the advise!!
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Old 06-30-2020, 01:24 AM   #14
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FWIW - mine is a Brunner Eng 18.7 gallon chassis mounted tank, manufactured in 1990. Got it filled at a Flying J on our way from Texas to Floribama back in February after the place we usually fill in Terrell wouldn't fill becuase of surface rust on the tank.
So, next day, stopped by a Home Depot and picked up some Loctite rust convertor and white paint. Went to the RV park we spent the night in, masked off the labels, valves and other critical areas, cleaned and reprinted.
As we left the RV park and continued on the journey to Floribama, we stopped at a Flying J to get propane. My not knowing any better, they put 17 gallons of propane in the tank (80% of 18.7 is 15 gallons). So, when we get to Floribama, I could smell propane.
So I go to turn the propane service valve off and liquid propane splatters out of the valve between the bonnet and stem. Then once fully closed, I still smell propane. So I mixed up some soap and water - and sprayed on the service valve, the bleed vent, gauge level and fill ports. And noted very minor leakage at the service valve.

We still needed lp in order to cook meals and heat water for dish washing, so I went ahead and fully opened the service valve when lp was needed. And again, splattering and leaking of liquid lp while fully opening and backseating the service valve, with minor leakage (vapor only only detectable using soapy bubbles) with the valve fully backseated open.
I also noted a newly installed 2-stage Camco regulator had lp leakage at the inlet port where the POL fitting screwed in. It looked like a casting failure as a very fine crack could be seen.
Service valve is a REGO 9106CO.

After a lot of Internet searching, researching and contact with REGO and debating the merits of just retrofitting a new tank into the motorhome (which had its own set of challenges due to readily/economically available 12"x42" replacement tank) I finally figured out that REGO sold a retrofit bonnet and stem assembly that would fix the issue of liquid propane leakage when opening or closing the service valve. Only problem was, I had to get the tank empty to replace the old one.

So, when we got back from Floribama a week later, I parked the RV in the driveway, opened the lp service valve and let the refrigerator run on lp to brn off lp.

I also sent pictures and a short video of the leaky regulator to Camco - and they overnighted me a new one - sending it to the RV part we were stating at in Floribama. I was able to change that out while there.

Last week, i checked lp in the tank - and none there (between the refrigerator usage and the slight leaks I had) and ordered a replacement stem and bonnet kit. Just today, I removed and totally rebuilt lp gas train from the POL as it connects to the service valve, to the regulator, safety cut-off solenoid, and a tee that i added which feeds either the original coach lp system or lp quick connect that can be used for our fire pit or a BBQ grill (if we had one or get one).

FWIW - I've not had good success with getting a good seal using the yellow Teflon tape. On the last rebuild of the gas train, i used the white pipe dope sealant (with Teflon) from Lowes when i last rebuilt the gas train. But that sealant doesn't set up like I'm used to (I used to do a lot of HVAC up unites out 20 years ago, and RectorSeal was always my favorite - but never saw it at Lowes or Home Depot until today). The RectorSeal to use comes in a yellow tube with a big red "5" in the label. This is what I used to use in my HVAC days and it's great stuff - not to mention it "sets-up" as well.

Once everything was assembled, I went back out to our favorite propane place in Terrell - and they couldn't get any lp into the tank. Never had this issue before. They couldn't figure it out and had no suggestions to offer as to why.
I noted that procedurally, they first turned on the pump, then connected their filler hose/nozzle to my tank, then opened the valve on the nozzle. So I left with an empty tank, trying to figure out what was wrong. As the wife and I were driving back thru Forney, we remembered an lp place there and stopped in. He hooked up and loaded 5 gallons without issue.
Procedurally, all he did differently was leave his lp pump off, hooked up his filler hose/nozzle, opened the nozzle valve, went back to his pump and turned it on, then opend a flow valve to begin the flow of lp - only AFTER I heard a knock like sound coming from the tank in my motorhome.

I know lp filing systems are full of safeties. My suspicion is - since my tank was empty (due to the bonnet/stem changeout mentioned above) that there may have been an open flow safety device blocking lp flow while I was at the first fillers location and that it wouldn't reset because he was turning the lp flow on/off at the nozzle, and not at the pump. That knock I heard sounded exactly like what a gas valve sounds like when it opens. And the 2nd filler procedure kept the safety in the nozzle from tripping like I suspect it was at the 1st filler.

So now, all is good!

Sorry for the long post - but I feel the experience gained here will be of help to a future newbie or novice to their lp system woes.
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