If you were building home RV storage building from scratch....

[3miles]

Thank you all for taking the time and effort to post your thoughts. I have read through the thread about 10 times and keep picking up new ideas that will likely put me 3 times over my budget but hey, I'm in the brainstorming phase so a guy can dream can't he? I appreciate all of you.


This next statement will frustrate those of you in the '45 footer' group but here goes.....I held a class A CDL for 30 years and occasionally pulled a 53' detach trailer with 12' wide loads and while I have the ability to move the big stuff I no longer have the desire.


It will be my wife and I traveling so over 90% of the time only 2 of us in the camper and we want the option of staying in the national parks and use the tight space length restricted campgrounds. I truly think my wish list is going to top out at around 32' 5th wheel or similar sized class C.


I can hear the "size matters" crowd screaming, "DON'T do it. You'll regret it. Go big while you have the chance." I hear you loud and clear. -))


I was doing some driving today and noticed a building design that looks pretty nice. I know it's likely not the most efficient way to build but it would be a nice way to gain height on the RV portion and still keep the overall building height down so it looks a little more 'residential' in style and doesn't look out of place. A 40x50 with 16 walls might not look very attractive.


What do you think of this one? Maybe build an RV bay 16x36 or 16x40 with 12x????? door. (I have no problem backing anything highway legal through a 12' door.) Then turn the roof line, lower the wall and build a nice garage shop area to the side.

[cataska]

Originally Posted by PKI

Why is a 12 ft door not enough? The coach is not going to be wider than 8.5 ft plus 2 ft for mirror extension. That is 10.5 ft wide. That is a 9 inch clearance on both sides.

Understand that if the approach is not straight, door needs more width to allow the turn. Understand that if the slides can't be retracted while inside, you can't get out. Understand that it's hard to see inside a dark building. Understand that you need access for other types of stuff to get into the building.

Is the 14ft recommendation just a safety factor or is it really needed? Why?

Take my word after you install the 12' wide you will see yes you can do it with a 12' but it is a squeeze in and out.

[153stars]

We have a few all steel buildings at work that have ridge vents that pull open and lock with sash chains. They cover about 1/3 to 1/2 of ridge , the roof have a shallow pitch I'm sure they would work better on a steeper one. Those buildings stay pretty cool without fans.

[SLOweather]

First of all, my thanks to the OP for posing the question. I am also in the thinking process for building a motorhome garage at the home I just purchased in Illinois (my divorce home ).


Second, thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I'm going to copy and paste the ones relevant to me into a Word doc to save for next year when I want to build.


Third, appreciation to RVpioneer for bringing some reality back into the conversation. Like every other forum I have been on, we are all good at spending other people's money.



For my case, my property has an existing 40 x 33 steel shed with a 10' door, and a gravel floor. That footprint is plenty big to store my 31' Sunstar, my Kawasaki Mule, and a tractor. I'm thinking of demoing the existing building, and rebuilding on the same basic footprint. There is water and power already there. I would insulate it and heat it, mostly just warm enough to keep from having to winterize the motorhome.


The house septic system is not currently conducive to dumping, so, as noted, while the trench is open for gas, I'd add a sewer lateral, and some extra conduits. I always add conduits in an open trench. PVC is cheap. Trenching and backfilling, not so much.


No need for a bathroom. The house already has 3, and the moho has one. I can see adding a mezzanine later if needed, over the Mule/Tractor parking, and some parts storage and a workbench.The house already has a 350 sq ft workshop.


Mainly, I want to keep the Sunstar inside away from sun damage, hail damage, rodents, and warm enough to not winterize.

[Mr Lars]

As others have check local bldg codes, I would include a service pit, if allowed, you may be required to install a ventilation system for the pit.

[PKI]

Originally Posted by SLOweather

-- snip -- warm enough to not winterize.

Consideration - stuff breaks/fails - so if the temps get below 20 degrees for multiple days at a time in your area, at least blow the majority of the water out of the RV's plumbing systems. It's inexpensive insurance against what could be some costly repairs.

[Ray,IN]

I built a 60'X40'X 15' pole barn with ridge skylight. One walk-in door and a 20'X14' sliding door. (No RV sold will be higher than 13' 6") A 4" thick fiberglass-re-enforced concrete floor with rebar and wire embedded.
This is large enough for any RV sold that we might consider purchasing. I built a 20'x10' loft for DW's yard decorations and Christmas decorations.
I have plenty of room for my workshop, my 1932 Chevrolet Confederat BA, my pickup and yard tools. That leaves room for my farm tractor or a farm implement, should I need to repair something.


IMO bigger might be wasted space, but if built too small I'd always have regrets.
We used to own a 40' 5er and a CC, LB Chevy dually, I had room to park the rig (hooked up) inside and shut the door.(barely)

[kenwyatt]

My 2 cents worth, put in a 24X50 slab with a carport that i will add walls later. Ran 70 amps out and set a sub-panel. And water. The sewer dump is a great ideal and may do that later. When a door goes in it will not be less then 14x14. Have a 45 ft “bumper to bumper “ with 4 slides. This give me plenty of work space around it and I can put it to 1 side and with the proper prep remove a slide if required. Not cheap but all work done except the slab and initial carport will be done by me over time. The slab and carport was paid for by a ins claim due to a tag blowout that was repaired by me for less then $400. Slab and carport was $16,800.

[nvs4602]

Mine is 30 x 60. I went with 14 ft walls and scissor truss for added height inside. So I could still have a loft in the back for storage. And still have an 8ft ceiling under it for my work shop. So my work shop is 16x30x8 and so is the storage above it. I think the peak inside is close to 18ft. Because I can walk on top of our class c without bending over. Plus I have a 2 post 10000lb extra wide extra tall car lift.

My next building will have in floor heat an apartment for us to live in and full hookup for motorhome. We don't need a big house anymore and this would be a great way to down size so we can travel more.

I agree with the others on a 14ft door. I also had a 1 inch step put in so the garage door closes 1inch below the floor level to keep water from coming in under door.

[Isaac-1]

What climate you live in would go a long way in some of the decisions you might make. I store my coach in a shed with roll up door on the family cattle ranch in Louisiana so think summer time highs most days in the 90's occasionally over 100, though with high humidity, and winter lows rarely much below freezing at least not in the daytime, with all time record lows around 12F, and most years the lows barely reach into the upper 20's.


The shed I use is half of a subdivided 40x60 metal shed, so my space is 40 ft long (really 38 to the support beams) and 30 (28) ft wide with the 12x12 roll up door offset about 8 ft right of center. I find this length minimally comfortable for my coach which measures in just under 30 ft bumper to bumper, though I do have a 4ft wide warehouse pallet rack storage rack on the wall in front of the coach, and along the left side (wider space). This allows me just enough room to comfortably walk around 3 sides of the coach (front and sides) without rolling the door up. At a minimum plan on length of coach +6 feet for access with roll up door down. Also at least 4-5 ft on each side is minimum for accessing cargo bays, and walking past with cargo doors are open, doing work in the electrical or wet bay, etc.


As to features I wish I had, and that I have retrofitted,



1# lots of lights, and mount them on the side walls about 7-8 feet up, I don't care how well lit the roof is, but I do want to see into bays under the hood, etc.


2, electrical is nice, I have 50 amp hookup, just wish it was on the drivers side not, the passenger side, but I was limited by building wiring.


3, water hookups and drain would be nice, my nearest water hookup is at the opposite corner of the shed, so about 50 ft hose length.


4, dump station would be nice, I have to dump at an old septic tank about 150 feet away from the shed, and can only do that in dry conditions.



5, a utility sink in the shed would be nice too, again there is one on the far corner of the building on the other side. Better yet a full bathroom with shower would be nice, if I have been working under the coach and am covered in grime I hate to track it inside.


6, A service pit, even just a small shallow one would be great, this does not have to be full length buy should be placed to service either the front end or rear end when backed in. Think 4 ft deep and 6-8 ft long or so with a sliding bench. I wish I had one, in fact I seriously think about adding one.


7, 14x14 door, the 12x12 door was a limiting factor in the coach I bought, mine is 11'5" tall, the next model year newer the same coach went to 12'1". Also at 10'1" wide I have came close to taking off a mirror backing out from or pulling into the shed more than once, particularly if it is dark outside with the shed lit and I don't have a spotter.


I don't get too concerned about height inside as I can usually wait for good weather to do roof work outdoors.

[WDW]

We had expected our 26x52 building to be up by now, but the lumber shortage has pushed it back until supply and prices rationalize. 26x52 with 14x16 OH door.

The upside it’s given the build up base and access driveway time to compact and settle. 250 tons of screened bank run gravel. Rock solid. We backed the MH in 10 days after the dirt work was done it it never left a dimple. This should provide a solid base for our concert floor. When it gets built....

[Sundancer268]

Originally Posted by 3miles

It will be my wife and I traveling so over 90% of the time only 2 of us in the camper and we want the option of staying in the national parks and use the tight space length restricted campgrounds. I truly think my wish list is going to top out at around 32' 5th wheel or similar sized class C.


I can hear the "size matters" crowd screaming, "DON'T do it. You'll regret it. Go big while you have the chance." I hear you loud and clear. -))


I was doing some driving today and noticed a building design that looks pretty nice. I know it's likely not the most efficient way to build but it would be a nice way to gain height on the RV portion and still keep the overall building height down so it looks a little more 'residential' in style and doesn't look out of place. A 40x50 with 16 walls might not look very attractive.


What do you think of this one? Maybe build an RV bay 16x36 or 16x40 with 12x????? door. (I have no problem backing anything highway legal through a 12' door.) Then turn the roof line, lower the wall and build a nice garage shop area to the side.

I think that building looks great, I love the roof line and Gray is a great color. I agree on your size choice, I have a 34' Class "A" and have had no desire to go larger in the 11 years we have owned it. I park it in a 36' wide barn and have only a foot or so in the back with the front against the 13' high x 16' wide double slider doors. I also store my 24' trailer-able cabin cruiser in the same barn next to the coach. I have 30 amp power for both and a gravel floor. I only use the barn for winter storage as backing in is tight and at some times the yard is to soft. During the seasons we use the coach, it is parked by the house where I have 50 Amp and Soft water hook ups installed. I do have a dump station along side the driveway, about 25-30 foot from where the coach is parked. When we return, I have to drive right by the dump and it is only 5-6 foot from where I pass on the way to the parking spot.

[sbleiweiss]

Originally Posted by PKI

Why is a 12 ft door not enough? The coach is not going to be wider than 8.5 ft plus 2 ft for mirror extension. That is 10.5 ft wide. That is a 9 inch clearance on both sides.

All I can tell you after having a 12 foot door is it is a pain. Say you are backing in and the back end is not going in exactly straight. Want to adjust by turning the wheel? Can't. Not enough room to maneuver with the mirrors out. Bigger doors don't cost that much more. It is worth it. Read the thread (I know you have) and you will see. Almost everyone is warning you against a 12 door.

[Isaac-1]

Another issue with a 12 ft door is the potential of side to side rocking if the transition into the building is not level, as the mirrors and front tires tend to be close to each other. Add in 3-4 inches of side to side rocking and that 9-10 inch clearance if perfectly centered drops considerably. Another pain with a 12 ft wide door is if you need to stop when partly pulled in for some reason and your entry door in aligned with the roll up door so that there is not enough room to open it.