If you were building home RV storage building from scratch....

[szakaluk]

10’ ’wide, 14’high. You’ll never be sorry. Our Monaco is 13’ 1” high (satellite dome). 10’ wide is tight for mirrors but do-able.
Put reinforcing bars on door panels. (Cheap, ~$20 each. ). We didn’t have them and microburst blew door out.

[Cypress_19]

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10'wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?

I just built one, and my door is 12' wide and 14' tall. It works good, I have a Class C, 29'. We also added a small apartment, and I agree that a dump station is needed unless you can use your exiting septic.

[augerdogger]

IMHO, it should be wide enough to get slides out, 20'; long enough to walk around with front or rear compartment doors open, 50'; tall enough to work on roof, 20' because I like to walk not crawl on the roof. Garage door should be at least 13' 6', i.e. 14' and 14' wide for maneuvering with slide out. My RV garage, Toy Shed, is 40'x60' concrete slab with 20' at eve and 26' in center. I have 50 amp electrical service, water, and sewer. Cost estimate is $45-50 / sq ft. I have a man-way door and a second garage door, 10'x10'.

[VandCL]

Just finished a 24'x56' garage (technically called an accessory building). It was a computer designed kit from Menards. I came with copulas, vents, windows, a walk-through door, full metal siding and roof with wainscot siding panels, lumber, trusses, 23 - 6"x8" treated lumber poles, overhead door and even the color-coded screws.
24'x56' Gives me 8' of open space in each direction from the coach. Our Berkshire DP is 40' long and the standard 102" wide
I used a gravel floor over a #2 rock base, which saved about $5,000 instead of a concrete floor. But, side panels are installed in case I want to add it later.
The kit was $17,000 with $1,850 of rebates.
I hired an Amish crew which put it up in two days. (Usually they can do in one day, but because of the complexity of my design it took two.)
Cost to erect $8,000
The county and others advised me that the standard door size for this type of purpose is 14'x14' with 16' trusses.
Wiring for wall outlets, 12 ceiling light banks, wiring for future overhead door opener and 50 amp circuit was $5,000 which included a 75' underground electric service run from the house.
Even though I am on a farm, I still had to get a variance from the township for building it in front of the plane of the house. Then, I had to get a permit from the county with inspections for pole footers, electric and final for the building. Because of COVID-19, the inspection was virtual with me pointing my phone's camera at whatever the inspector wanted to see. Electrician was there with me to answer any questions. It all took me some time but is well worth it.

[dvredc5]

What a great forum! Awesome information and everyone is always so helpful. We just signed a contract and will be building our motorhome building as soon as the contractor can get started. We have had a few detached buildings on property we have owned but relocating to where we are now is the first locations that would allow a building of this height and size. We do have an attached 4-car garage plus a detached 36’ by 80’ additional garage. But, neither has doors taller than 10’ (all from the previous owner).

Here is what we are building, 34’ wide by 50’ deep. 16’ walls with either (2) 12’ by 14’ doors or a single 28’ wide by 14’ tall door. We store our 45’ Tiffin Phaeton in a rental unit with a 12’ wide by 14’ high door and the mirrors do get pretty close but for as often as we pull in and out it’s more than manageable. Wider is better but also more costly.

We live in northern IL so it will be insulated and heated during the winter months like we do our other garages. If necessary I’ll add a mini split AC unit later. Hoping 2 ceiling fans will be fine for the summer months.

100amp service, 50amp RV plugs at the front and rear of the building so hook ups are easy if we pull in or back in. RV dump station into a 500 gallon septic tank since it’s cost prohibitive to do long runs under existing driveway to the house septic system. Will have lots of LED ceiling lighting as well as side wall lights on the side where the motorhome will be parked. A wash tub with a small hot water heater and separate inside and outside hose bibs. Numerous 110volt outlets on every wall and extras in the ceiling (besides door openers) in case I want to have hanging cord reels. Also several 220 volt outlets for a large compressor or possibly a welder if ever needed. Exterior LED lights on motion sensors as well as decorative lights on a timer. A trench style floor drain into a required triple catch basin system. Connections for 2 hanging gas heaters - hoping to get by with just one but better to have the additional connection if needed. Vinyl base trim so holds up well against moisture from washing the floor etc. LP Smartside siding and stained carsiding on underside of porch area.

We obtained 2 bids with one from Morton Buildings which appear to make a really nice building but are very costly. Excavating, concrete and everything except landscaping afterwards came to $253,000! Shocking to say the least.

We are going with a local contractor who has done previous work in our home. Foundation will be an 8” by 18” footing with continuous keyway. 8” by 42” foundation. (5) 12” by 42” piers for porch roof. Barn slab will be 5” concrete over 6” gravel sub grade/6mil poly vapor barrier/fiber mesh reinforcement with welded wire reinforcement in the “RV half”. Porch slab 4” concrete over compacted gravel/rebar dowels at building and wire mesh reinforcement. We have the choice of architectural shingles or metal roof - same cost but haven’t decided that yet. Local contractor cost will be $141,000.

Hope some of this information is helpful. Good luck with your project and as others have said bigger is always better. You might not need the height or length now but may in the future. It also can’t hurt for resale. If you have a 38’ rig why have to turn away a buyer because their 45’ won’t fit? Of even a contractor who might want to park his trucks and equipment there? I’d go larger if I could but we are at our budget limit for this. One other thought about height for all doors - you might sell to someone with a large rig plus a tall trailer like a stacker. We don’t have a stacker currently but would like to add one in the future so building our barn so it would fit too. Very tired of paying for inconvenient off site storage for years!

[redbuster]

If I were building this shed, I would make it twice as wide and build a shop because that what I do. Also consider a rear door because you never know. Mine is stored in a commercial storage lot but I keep a dehumidifier running to keep it dry and have it draining to the outside.

[MidMichHunte]

I did not read all 5 pages so I may be repeating other’s ideas, but here is what I built and what I wish I had done.



32’ x 40’ x 14.5’ walls
12’ X 14’ door, slider Front
10’ x 10’ door, rear slider
9’ x 8’ overhead door
Storage Trusses
8’ x 34’ loft with storage over the eve
24’ Enclosed lean to
200 Amp Service w/ an internal & external 50Amp RV plug
6” Concrete floor w/ 60’ x 50’ pad in front
20’ x 40’ Crushed concrete pad on one side

I’ll keep the same design but this is what I’ll do different next time:
Larger, 40’ x 64’ so I can park both the Class A and toad in it.
Make the 2 sliders, overhead doors of the same size so I can drive through.
Move Drive through doors 4-6’ off the wall so I can extend the sliders and walk around it, which is difficult today.
Add water, Insulation, and a heater of some type
It’s a pole barn, next time I may go with a steel frame
Floor Drain

[steeltom75]

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10' wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?

For my 5th Wheel, I built a 30' x 60' (16' sidewalls & 20' x 14' door) with a 12' x 60' lean-to - The 20' wide door makes it easier to back the 5th wheel in and also provides room to pull & park my F450 and other vehicles in next to the trailer with all slides out.


I also included al of the the things you are considering. So what you build really depends on type of RV you have or may have in the future -as others have said going with 16' side walls & 14' tall door will cover all legal height RV's - if you will always have a motor home & don't need to park a toad in the building or use part of the building for other purposes you can go narrower, just keep in mind what width you would need to extend slides & still be able to get around the RV.


Also type of building construction needs to be considered when planning, the widths & lengths given for buildings are exterior dimensions, for example - a 30' wide metal frame building will only have about 27' of open floor width between the beam frame columns.



My building is insulated and climate controlled, so I don't have to winterize - my dump station is tied into a lift station that pumps up to my septic tanks, the dump station pipe is located on the lean-to pad with thru wall access that can be closed using a small pet door when not in use - having the ability to live in the trailer came in handy when we remodeled our house and provides a place for visitors stay.

[PCFriar]

We built one 3 years ago. Have a 14 foot door and it is 30 by 40' Wis I had gone 45' as our Class A is only a 30' one but it limits you to ever resell and the cost really wasn't much more to add ten feet. Also remember that the 2"x6" studs that set up your walls take about a foot off the useable space because they support everything. Our coach is 12"6" tall and the 14' foot door works fine for us. Not sure what a diesel pusher is in height. We put a 30 amp plug in because that is all we needed for ours. Wick buildings did a great job and was pretty quick and reasonable on the price. The concrete cost almost as much as the actual building!

[6995]

I would suggest a16’ wide x 14’ high door and 60’ deep. Also 50 amp electrical service, water, floor drain to wash coach

[dpsdebi7]

We have a 6" concrete slab in our building...

[Mackie]

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10'wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?

I built one several years ago for a 40’9” Newmar Mountain Aire diesel pusher. Height 12’ 9”. Pole barn 14’. 12’ Wide door. 13’ High. Been working fine for years. Include all the things listed and you’ll be fine.

[sammi 2769]

My "last RV / Shop" building is 40'x60'x16ft walls, 6/12 roof pitch (snow country). Enclosed, 14' wide "lean-to" on the south side is a bonus. Doors 10'x12' and 14'x12' wide. 12' wide door is "OK", would have gone with 14' wide, but needed equipment room for some of my shop equipment. Reinforced 5 inch concrete floor. 10'x10' equipment room / bathroom, holds the dust collector system, air compressor, gun safes, water heater, etc. Insulated, drywalled and heated with a 110,000 btu heater with a "blow distance" of 50 feet. The Newmar appreciates the LED lighting and windows. I was able to keep the cost down, per sq. foot, to $91.00, by during some of the work myself as a general contractor.
50/30/120 volt panels in the shop and lean-to. 200amp service panel to the shop. Water, sewage dump at the corner of the shop. We lived in our Newmar DP, including the winter, inside the the shop for a year, while we where building our "our last, ageing (all ADA compliant) home. When you get older than dirt, this will be my last rodeo. By the way, having the shop as a business tax right off, helps even more.

[wontonthan]

Lots of great things in here so I will add a few other options that you might consider.


I see you are in SW Indiana. So if probably get some cold winters. If you are storing your RV over the winter, think about how you might want to heat the building. My 40x60 has heated cement pad w/gas heated antifreeze mixture running throughout. I keep the building in the low 40s in the winter.

Also, make sure to consider a long grated drain running the length of the building; don't forget to have it pitched for draining. Makes for easy spray down/clean etc in your building.

Install a bathroom or a utility room with a basin/toilet/urinal! Its so nice not to have to run to the house, all dirty just to use the head.

30A service is all you really need to keep batteries topped off or run an AC unit. If not, then use battery tenders with household 110V or use a 110V adapter to down convert your 30/50A; just don't run the AC!

If you have height and room on either side, you should consider stairs and a cat walk. Beats having to drag out a tall ladder, erect it in that building.

Oh tall ceiling lights are a pain in the ass. If you get warehouse lights, the bulb and electrical consumption could be $$$. Mount your lights sockets on the side of your walls and consider adjustable LED lights to brighten up the building.

Have fun outfitting your building!