If you were building home RV storage building from scratch....

[rsteinhart]

If you are specifying a steel building check the inside dimensions. I built a 40'x50' with the intention of a 45' coach. They built a 40x50 out to out. Which means the inside is smaller. In my case I lost two feet to purlinss and columns. Fortunately I still can walk around each end without opening the door. I put in water for filling and washing and 220 30amp. I can run two of three AC's and a 1.5hp air compressor plus fluorescent lighting. I concur, go bigger than you will think you need. My neighbor had to blow out the rear wall of his garage for his newest Super C. Add some form of ventilation if in hotter climates. 12"x14' doors.

[Isaac-1]

I just wanted to add that there are industrial epoxy coating for warehouse floors, etc. that make the floors more chip resistant and make it easier to clean, just note they are not cheap, even DIY expect the epoxy to cost around $750, it also has a short working time so for an RV size building you will probably need 3-4 able bodied people to spread it before it cures.

[Larrikin]

40 long is too short. we are 50x30, works fine for a 43 ft bus, farm implement storage. Sure as hell when you go to sell your place, the buyers will have a 45 ft rig. Further, make sure your slab is engineered for axle loads of a 45 foot bus, at least where the wheels will track into the barn. If Your worst mistake would be to under build.

[lenny-shawna]

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10'wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?

If your building it from scratch it is simple and is only limited to your budget. My garage is 100' deep, 22' wide and 15' tall. The garage door is a roll up and is 14' high.

If I were to do it again I would increase the height to where I can confortable walk on the roof as oppose to crawling on the roof like I have to do now. I would also increase the width of the door to 14' and the overall width to be able to open my awning.

Highly recommend full hook-ups. I have 50 amp power, sewer and water. Why, because I keep the rig plugged in, do almost all my own maintenance and I never have to be concerned about dumping before I get home. I wash and wax her myself and being able to open all the slides and still roll my scaffolding around is wonderful.

I cannot recommend full hook-ups enough. We are also around the same age, I'm 52.

I also have a rear overhead door so I hook up the toed up the night prior to leaving for vacation.

Safe travels.

[Capt. Bill]

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10'wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?

3Miler- After having been down this road several times in the past - here is what I recommend- you can see my current storage shed in the attached ID block.
1) Build at 50' deep - 55" deep is better as it gives you plenty of walk around room on a 45' coach. Mine is 50' X 55' X 18' high- I have a Man Cave as well as full bath in mine. I've had as many as 120 people at a sit down party in mine as well as the coach.
2) put in a 12" wide X 14' high door-be sure to run the track vertically up the door wall as high as possible, before turning 90 degrees towards the rear- this gives you more clear room on top the coach at the front end (if you back it in)
3) Put in at least a half bath in one of the rear corners & run a sewer dump line over to the rear drivers side of the coach.
4) Side wall should be a minimum of 16' high- If you're north of the Mason Dixion line & want to heat it you'll want 2"X 6" wall studs to be able to put in 6" of insulation. Mine is 18' high as I ran a flat ceiling at 18' and put 24" of insulation in the ceiling as I have both A/C & heat. I also used painted metal panels to line the entire interior to give it a more finished look.
5) Install ceiling fans to get better circulation while working in shed or using the shed for social gathers- I have 4 in mine - lined up on the adjoining bay lines (I have 3 bays), so they don't knock you in the head while on top the coach.
6) Pour a 6" thick concrete (6 bag mix) floor with #4 rebar on 16" centers both ways.
7) If you want to be able to wash the coach inside- put in a 4" wide trench drain with fiberglass grating 2-3' in from the doors- full width of the building- this is what I did. It works great for snow melt off as well.
8) Definitely put in an inside water faucet for coach washing & tank filling.
9) Put in a 50 amp outlet as well as well as 120 V 20 amp duplex outlets - at least 2/wall, as well as 3 outside.

Hope tis answers all your Q's

Happy Trails

[CoMaddMax]

I have a 43' fiver and built a 42 x 46 metal building with 14' doors on both ends so I can drive through. I have just enough room to walk around both ends and wish I had gone 42 x 50!

[momcat]

RTSPENCE.....I really like your building.I know they can be bigger, more expensive, etc....But I think yours looks good, and is very practicle. MOMCAT

[TexasJeff]

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10'wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?

I did this so I'm going to answer with what i did and what i wish I had done:

I didn't use a contractor so being my own GC, i saved money right off the bat.

I used TuffShed. Yep, the ones you see right out front of your home depot. They custom designed a building to my specifications, bult it to withstand 100mph winds, used 2x6 lumber of a better grade than they build homes with (no cut up glued stuff), and they subcontracted with a company who made trusses so I didn't have to have support beams.

The roll up doors come in specific heights, so check with your local overhead door company and try to get a door thats not a custom size which saves money. My garage wall height was 13’ and I put on a 12’ door. I wished I had made the walls 15’ to accomodate a door that would allow for more height which would give me more latitude on future RV purchases. I just wasnt thinking farther ahead.

I put on doors on both front and back to drive through, turn around, and then park nose out facing front.

The RV doesnt care that the garage is finished on the inside. I left the inside with bare studs just like the old days. Saved more money. I did have it built with a ridge vent and gable vents on front and back. I wish I put in more than one window. More ventilation makes for a cooler garage.

TuffShed finishes all their structures with the same plywood exterior. I wanted a more custom look to match our home so I asked them to not put on the corner trim pieces and leave them for me to finish. I then purchased overstock fiberboard and put that over the standard TuffShed exterior and then used their finish trim pieces over the fiber board. The building was painted grey-blue to match the house with white trim. I also finished it off with old fashioned exterior overhead lights to light the entrance plus side pedestrian door.

My building was about $30,000 total cost to build, abt $2000 for electrical, and $20,000 foundation and driveway. Included is electrical circuits for a workshop area I put in the corner and a 30amp circuit with plugs on both front and rear walls.

[DanaDurango]

WOW...lots of great replies, thoughts and ideas for "the next one". We've had a garage over these past two coaches, and 11 years. Here's what I learned, and my suggestions (beyond size and hook-ups):
Depending on your climate, either add a dehumidifier, or the opposite. Here in Durango, CO we have a high desert low humidity, so I added a Aprilaire hot water humidifier. Keeps the wood in the coach healthy, and also does well for all the rubber parts you have. In humid climates, a commercial dehumidifier would be a great aide in reducing mold and mildew.
Floor heat...again we are in a cooler climate, so in-slab hydronic heat from a boiler really is great in the RV garage (20 x 50 and not large enough), and the attached 4-car 30 x 50 shop (perfect size).
Place your windows height to be equal with your coach windows. Keeps the light coming in, and prying eyes out.
Solar powered security camera set-up adds peace of mind.
Place a temperature controlled exhaust fan high up and in the rear of your RV garage, and a louvered vent directing cooler air inbound down low and in a opposite place in your garage.
I made my floor absolutely level, with a couple of floor drains to handle occasional washing, etc.
I also found that a good quality cat, or a couple of electronic "critter ridders" help prevent damage, or in our case help rid the inbound coach of any "unauthorized" passengers!
Thanks for asking such a great question, and in a way that encouraged lots of replies!

[jacwjames]

After finally getting a couple quotes from Post Frame builders that were quite a bit higher then a metal frame building I placed an order with the Metal Frame company.

Sat down with the designer and went over the spec's. Originally I only spec'd 7 windows and no windows in the 2 garage doors. I decided to add a couple extra windows plus windows in the large doors. I can specify the height of the window in the garage doors to provide both light and a view from the motorhome when it is backed in. I placed some of the Windows high thinking that they will help provide light across the top of the RV.

I've not poured my slab yet but have been working on adding additional slope and drains to help with rain run off. I am also adding the drains inside the building for both sewer area wash down along with condensate water.

I will have a 50 amp feed but also left the door open to adding another if needed, would have to trench ~75' from an existing 50 amp plug, not out of the realm of possibility down the road.

I had been thinking about this building for some time but this post has given me more ideas.



On a side note, I have a Kilawatt plugged into an outlet in the house and had been noticing lower voltage during peak time. There were also a couple of times when the motorhome surge protector dropped power due to low voltage. This happened when I was plugged into the temporary service and after the house wiring was complete so it ruled out any wiring issue on my side.

We live within 10 miles of a TVA generating facility and close to the main distribution line and thought there was a problem.

So I contacted the utility company via email first and then talked to an engineer. He said after my first report they had checked the voltage coming from the substation feeding the house and found that they had their output set slightly lower then what it should have been. I knew enough about power distribution for him to take me seriously, I explained that my surge protector drops at 108 volts which he was surprised at.

So if you are having this type of problem it pays to make some noise.

[Cloud Dancer]

I'll never be able to afford mine. I want to be able to comfortably be able to do major work on the roof of my big motorhome,....and and leave the roof OPEN for long periods, and NOT worry about the rain. (it's a long story)

[bklaes]

The outlet of the sewer hose is permanently sealed to the floor sewer drain.
The inlet has a receiver mounted higher for drainage. (sealed to prevent sewer gasses.)
No need to drag out the dump hose when I get home. It's a 2 minute chore.

[Mackie]

If your purchase is a 5th wheel in the future you might want to do a 15’ building with a14’ door. I have a Newmar Mountain Aire and my 13’ door does fine. My building is 33’x53’. Did the 3’ increments to eliminate cutting the siding and roof panels. Plenty of room if you’re walk in door is spaced right. Your door should be at least 12’ wide for good mirror clearance. Thanks

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10'wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?

[CountryB]

Originally Posted by 3miles

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV.

40 foot length is too short for RV.

You may have a shorter RV now, but I suggest you build it to hold a 42 or 45 footer. It is better for resale, plus you can never have too much space.

My Coach is 42ft long and I did a 36ft W x 48ft L (40 x 52 roof line) and it is just enough coverage. You need room at the front and back of coach too when its parked inside.