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Old 07-31-2020, 08:20 PM   #1
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If you were building home RV storage building from scratch....

We have about an acre around our home to work with and I am planning to build a 32x40 or 36x40 fully enclosed with concrete floor. The plan is to reserve an area for 1 RV. I am 56 and plan to use the building as long as I am upright and taking nourishment.


How tall should I go with the building sidewalls? What width and height door should I install not knowing what RV I might be using 20 years from now? Right now I'm thinking 10'wide x 12' or 12'6".


Other plans in consideration:
Dump station tied to septic tank.
30 or 50 amp RV service in building.
Water supply for cleaning and filling fresh tank.


What would you include in your home RV storage building if you were designing from the ground up?
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Old 07-31-2020, 08:30 PM   #2
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I'd certainly put in at least 14 ft door and probably a 15 ft. Fivers are generally 13 ft 6 inches after all and I don't know about Class A coaches. 14 ft would be cutting it close.


You could put up a temp blue tarp wall, it would only last a year or two probably. Just make sure to get it tight. It would keep the rain out.


Have you checked with the county code people to see what permits you'll need?
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Old 07-31-2020, 08:49 PM   #3
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AT least a 14 foot door, but I would go closer to 15. Also are you making it big enough. No really you are restricting your RV to probably no bigger than 38 feet and the day may come when you are shopping for a 45 ft monster.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:14 PM   #4
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If you aren't going to live in it, the RV doesn't need sewage, but access to water & 50A service would be worth while. I've kept our MH parked in the back yard near my wood working shop and installed 50A service to keep it powered for the HVAC in the very hot Georgia summers. It is also close enough to run a water hose when I need to flush the antifreeze from the fresh water system.


Several years ago we had a major water leak and had to move out of the house while about half the flooring was replaced and the walls (2' near floor) were repaired. We stayed in the MH and used the house's 2nd bathroom. Its nice to have an extra cottage on the property in case of emergency.


I would like to hear recommendations for the concrete slab to support a MH (26,000lbs) because I'm thinking of building a shelter for our MH also.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:28 PM   #5
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16' walls 14' high 12' wide 48' ft long as wide as possible.

Mine is 40 x 60 and still gets small. 24x20 finished room with 3/4 bath and loft.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:45 PM   #6
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A 14’ door is sufficient for anything legal. We went 13’. You’ll want a door at least 12’ wide if you have, or plan to own, a MH with mirrors.

Wall height will depend on door height, proximity of door to side walls and roof pitch.

Allow ~4’ of space front, rear and both sides. If you ever think you might own a 45’ coach, make the building at least 50’ long, probably 60’.

We ran a 60A service with a 50A RV outlet and a 15A circuit. A 50A outlet for storage is really overkill. It sounds like you building a shop. Depending on your needs a 100A service may be in order.

We built on a slope so adding a floor drain was an easy option. I can dump the fresh tank, flush the water heater or wash the coach inside and the water drains out the side. I believe the slab floor is 6” thick.

The barn itself is a metal building, 18x45 with 14’ sidewalls, a 13’h x 12’w roll up door and a walk thru door on one side. The coach is 37’. I’ll probably add a solar roof vent at some point.
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Old 07-31-2020, 10:01 PM   #7
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Smile

Ours is the little one. The other belongs to a neighbor next to our Michigan house.
It’s something like 48’x78’ with 3, 14’ RV doors.
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Old 08-01-2020, 05:55 AM   #8
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You will not be happy if you don't put at least a 14x14 door. I was originally thinking a 12ft wide door would be fine but glad I went with 14 ft. The ceiling or inside height should be 16 ft. We have a 36 foot gas class A and the building is 24x48. With that size I can put the slides out and have plenty of room to walk around the RV. I think if you build in increments of 4 ft you don't waste as much materials.
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:27 AM   #9
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Here are some pictures of my building 24x50. 16 foot walls. 12x14 oh doors. Gas hot air heat. Water, sewer, and electric.
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:29 AM   #10
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14x14’ door would be the smallest door I would go with. 14’ clear not side wall dimension.
50’ deep would be min.
Mine slab is 22’ wide and I wish it was 24’ but works at 22’
Be sure slab slopes enough for water to run off or have a drain.
50 amp service if you ever think you will live in it or just want to run ac when working on interior.
Have some way of dumping tanks. Sewer is nice but you could get by with pump made out of a garbage disposal.
Having a ceiling helps keep the rv clean but interferes with working on roof unless building is really tall.
A window at rear really helps backing in. Seeing in a black hole can be tough if backing in by your self.
These are just what I’ve learned on my rv garage.
Good luck

Good luck
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:45 AM   #11
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I did not think about this enough when designing my attaching garage. I agree that you should be sure it is wide enough to put out slide and walk around. I can get my slides out but cannot open the storage doors. I did 30 amp, water, sewer, internet and cable tv. If we are on on full hookup site we can dump at home rather than wait in line for the campground dump station. I would go high enough to stand on the roof. Nice to work up there while out of the weather. Don't forget lighting on the walls so the sides can be worked on. Floor drain is a must.
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:50 AM   #12
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We did a 20x52 with 16’ side walls and a 14x14 roll up door. The roof is 4/12 pitch so I have plenty of room to climb on top of the coach and walk around. The building is fully insulated with a 100 amp service panel and 50 amp RV outlet
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:51 AM   #13
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OK, I'll chime in here with my 2 cents worth. I've built 4 of these so far and all were too small for our current camper. All of them had 12x12 doors. 12 wide is the minimum I would consider going. I know, you are only 8' wide so a 10' door should work but trust me it won't. 12' wide is the minimum. Our current camper is 13'4". Your next one may be too so go with a 14' high door. That leaves you with a 16' sidewall. If that is too tall, you can use vaulted trusses but you need to be into the 30' wide building size for them to give you enough rise to make it worthwhile. Standard trusses are sturdier and cheaper so keep that in mind. I wouldn't go over a 6/12 pitch on roof. After that most roofers start charging more. As for floor, go with a 6" monolithic slab. Use rebar, not mesh. Some jurisdictions require stem wall foundations and that will add considerably to your cost, but they make the rules.

All that said, I would build 24x48 center section with 16' sidewalls and a 14x14 door. I'd use a 4/12 pitch standard truss. Then I'd drop down about from the eve and start a shed roof on each side ending up with a 8' sidewall. Visually that would give you a traditional barn style building that didn't look like a tall commercial building. Depending on budget those wings could have concrete floors on the same slab fully enclosed and finished or they could just be open gravel floor parking or any combination of the two. If you decide to go longer (or shorter) use a multiple of 4'. That works out best material wise. Enjoy!
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Old 08-01-2020, 07:15 AM   #14
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I had an allsteel 3 sided RV covering built on my former property. It was 30x45. If I was to still own it it would be too small.
I had septic so I used it to dump.

New place, new plans. Now have a 43' DP and an 80x20 pad next to the house where we have water and when I had the sewer redone I added a dump. I'm considering a 40x60 with 15' walls and 16' door. May add 2nd door for toad - probably will. I'm looking to contact the All Steel company in Northern IN that did the previous one. I'll have to google them.
DW not to happy about this as it will be bigger than the downsized house we purchased so I offered to not build it IF she would agree to spending all winter where it is warm. Waiting for her answer - LOL

From experience, since you have the space plan for what you have now and double it as they only get bigger. Most interstate overpasses are at 14'6" or above. State routes are around 13' and others can be as low as 9'.

You can build in in sections. Since you are looking at concrete floor you will need to have the people erecting the covering do the concrete work or tell you their specs. Seems like the one I called here in IL said they would do the all steel RV port but it had to be mounted 8" in on the concrete or 8" outside the concrete.

Best wishes - Richard
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