Induction cooktop- INSTALLED!

[MSHappyCampers]

Update- Just got off the phone with Dave at True Induction. After explaining what is happening and about testing with the boiler they sent me, he confirmed that the cooktop is defective. He is going to test a new cooktop with the 10" boiler and two quarts of water, and send it out to me tomorrow. I will return the defective unit to them for a credit on my Visa card.

I'll let you know how all this works out!

[slowmachine]

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

Update- Just got off the phone with Dave at True Induction. After explaining what is happening and about testing with the boiler they sent me, he confirmed that the cooktop is defective. He is going to test a new cooktop with the 10" boiler and two quarts of water, and send it out to me tomorrow. I will return the defective unit to them for a credit on my Visa card.

I'll let you know how all this works out!

Good! You've suffered enough trying to diagnose the problem.

[PSOUZA]

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

Phil, aluminum does not affect magnetism. That's the reason you can't use aluminum cookware.

You fail to understand the point. Any electrical conductor that intersects a magnetic field will have a voltage induced by that magnetic field. Be it copper which is the preferred material because of its better conductivity or aluminum which is a close second choice. Magnetism is not the issue. Induced electric current caused by a AC magnetic field is. Induction heating happens when the concentrated AC magnetic field induces eddy currents within the target material near the inductor flux gap. Iron is very reactive in an alternating magnetic field and the eddy current(s) produce heating. Other materials...not so much.

ANY conducting material within the magnetic field, if it forms a continuous electrical circuit, will act as if it were a winding of the parent transformer and will tap energy from the magnetic field, there by reducing the available energy for the induction field.

The picture of the aluminum structure you installed indicates that the straps are mechanically attached to one another and to the chassis of the induction heating unit. Either of these conditions could result in induced voltage, and since the structure forms a closed electrical loop, induced current. A considerable amount of power could be wasted by this depending on the physical closeness to the core of the induction unit. This is called the coupling coefficient.

As I stated in the beginning, this theory is only that, and I don't consider it too likely. The coefficient of coupling is not likely to be sufficient to result in the amount of power loss you are experiencing but in the absence of any other logical explanation and that the symptoms fit the theory, and that it would be so easy to test prompted my suggestion.

Sorry to go technical on you, but your dismissive reply demanded it.

Phil

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by PSOUZA

You fail to understand the point. Any electrical conductor that intersects a magnetic field will have a voltage induced by that magnetic field. Be it copper which is the preferred material because of its better conductivity or aluminum which is a close second choice. Magnetism is not the issue. Induced electric current caused by a AC magnetic field is. Induction heating happens when the concentrated AC magnetic field induces eddy currents within the target material near the inductor flux gap Iron is very reactive in an alternating magnetic field and the eddy current(s) produce heating. Other materials...not so much.

ANY conducting material within the magnetic field, if it forms a continuous electrical circuit, will act as if it were a winding of the parent transformer and will tap energy from the magnetic field, there by reducing the available energy for the induction field.

The picture of the aluminum structure you installed indicates that the straps are mechanically attached to one another and to the chassis of the induction heating unit. Either of these conditions could result in induced voltage, and since the structure forms a closed electrical loop, induced current. A considerable amount of power could be wasted by this depending on the physical closeness to the core of the induction unit. This is called the coupling coefficient.

As I stated in the beginning, this theory is only that, and I don't consider it too likely. The coefficient of coupling is not likely to be sufficient to result in the amount of power loss you are experiencing but in the absence of any other logical explanation and that the symptoms fit the theory, and that it would be so easy to test prompted my suggestion.

Sorry to go technical on you, but your dismissive reply demanded it.

Phil

Phil, I'm sorry if I offended you with my reply. It wasn't meant that way!

The aluminum straps underneath are not attached to the chassis of the cooktop, only the plastic case. Would that make a difference?

[PSOUZA]

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

Phil, I'm sorry if I offended you with my reply. It wasn't meant that way!

The aluminum straps underneath are not attached to the chassis of the cooktop, only the plastic case. Would that make a difference?

No personal offense taken as I know none was intended. Communicating via keyboard has its disadvantages.

The fact that there is no structure beyond the plastic bottom removes the most likely induction / electrical path possibility. The remaining possibility, however remote, is still possible. Since you have a new unit on the way, might as well wait. Recommend testing the new unit before modification/ installation and then compare with after the install. No sense making extra work.

Good luck

Phil

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by PSOUZA

No personal offense taken as I know none was intended. Communicating via keyboard has its disadvantages.

The fact that there is no structure beyond the plastic bottom removes the most likely induction / electrical path possibility. The remaining possibility, however remote, is still possible. Since you have a new unit on the way, might as well wait. Recommend testing the new unit before installation and then compare with after the install. No sense making extra work.

Good luck

Phil

I'll definitely be testing it before installing!

Dave at True Induction promised to test it before shipping also!

[wil01]

Joe,
I’m glad you are getting a new unit from True Induction with them doing the two quart test. But don’t stop there, there’s more to be concerned about that needs to be tested.

I had a two burner True Induction tabletop unit fail because the heat control (temp and power setting) was defective. The unit would do just fine on the two quart test, but in every other situation (empty pan, oil in pan, oil and food in pan) the temperature of the pan would exceed 400 F and cause the smoke alarm to go off.

My experience with the True Induction technical support wasn’t good. I believe the unit is made in China with poor quality control and there are no technical knowledgeable people in this country connected to True Induction. After much back and forth with True Induction technical support, I just gave up and used the Amazon return policy to return the unit and get my money back.

But I’m afraid that isn’t all. I seem to be a glutton for punishment, so I ordered the True Induction single burner unit. It worked without defect, but not successfully, and I sent it back also.

The problem with trying to really cook with the True Induction is the very crude temperature/power settings. The minimum temp setting is 150 F and 30 degree steps above that. That does not allowing setting the temperature for things like cooking sauce that just bubbles. It is no way as adjustable as the old gas stovetop. Induction cooking is the wave of the future, and my induction range at home does just fine, but right now the cooktop units are not ready for prime time.

The best I have come up with is the NuWave Pro. Nuwave isn’t perfect either. Their quality control is also very bad, but if you get one that works, it has the controls you need (100 degree minimum temp, 5 degree step). And! If you decide to buy a NuWave, DON’T DEAL WITH THE COMPANY, buy from Amazon for a reasonable price and reasonable return policy.

Good Luck
Wil

[bfam2008]

subscribed***

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by wil01

Joe,
I’m glad you are getting a new unit from True Induction with them doing the two quart test. But don’t stop there, there’s more to be concerned about that needs to be tested.

I had a two burner True Induction tabletop unit fail because the heat control (temp and power setting) was defective. The unit would do just fine on the two quart test, but in every other situation (empty pan, oil in pan, oil and food in pan) the temperature of the pan would exceed 400 F and cause the smoke alarm to go off.

My experience with the True Induction technical support wasn’t good. I believe the unit is made in China with poor quality control and there are no technical knowledgeable people in this country connected to True Induction. After much back and forth with True Induction technical support, I just gave up and used the Amazon return policy to return the unit and get my money back.

But I’m afraid that isn’t all. I seem to be a glutton for punishment, so I ordered the True Induction single burner unit. It worked without defect, but not successfully, and I sent it back also.

The problem with trying to really cook with the True Induction is the very crude temperature/power settings. The minimum temp setting is 150 F and 30 degree steps above that. That does not allowing setting the temperature for things like cooking sauce that just bubbles. It is no way as adjustable as the old gas stovetop. Induction cooking is the wave of the future, and my induction range at home does just fine, but right now the cooktop units are not ready for prime time.

The best I have come up with is the NuWave Pro. Nuwave isn’t perfect either. Their quality control is also very bad, but if you get one that works, it has the controls you need (100 degree minimum temp, 5 degree step). And! If you decide to buy a NuWave, DON’T DEAL WITH THE COMPANY, buy from Amazon for a reasonable price and reasonable return policy.

Good Luck
Wil

Wil, I googled Nuwave and it appears they only have the single-burner portable cooktop. Am I missing something?

[Lisablue85]

I bought mine from HSN. It's the Titanium pro model, 1800 watts. Came with the travel bag & Free shipping for $99. I used a coupon for $15 off
( code - 152631) but if you're a new customer you can get $20 dollars off with coupon - 151253...excellent return policy (30 days) to try it out. Mine works great & the cooking surface is huge.

[wil01]

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

Wil, I googled Nuwave and it appears they only have the single-burner portable cooktop. Am I missing something?

You aren't missing anything, NuWave makes single eye countertop units only. One downside is if you get a good one - Titanium - you can't mount like you did your True Induction.

There are several upsides:
1. 100 F to 575 F in five degree steps (Titanium). The True Induction has 10 settings from 150 F in 30 degree steps. That is a deal breaker for me.

2. Cooking timer can be set to 99 hours which lets you use as the heat source for a slow cooker.

3. Cooking times and temperatures can be programmed.

4. It can be used anywhere you can get 15 amps of power, but I'd shoot for 20 amps.

I think induction cooking is the wave of the future, but the cooktop manufacturers haven't got their act together yet. I don't think they have gotten their quality control together either. I have had two NuWave and one True Induction defective unit. You have had one True Induction defective unit. That's not a good record, but I hope and expect things will improve.

I have looked at most of the induction cooktops that will work in an RV. Only the NuWave gives you good temperature control. All of the others provide very limited steps in 25 to 30 degree steps. One exception is a commercial unit with a $900 MSRP and almost $500 at Amazon, and even its top temperature is 400 F -- not enough for searing a steak.

If you buy anymore induction cooktops, I strongly suggest to buy from Amazon or someone like them. I was able to return two True Induction cooktops without any questions and no shipping costs.

In considering your option, think on this. You could buy two NuWave Titanium units and store them in the space you created when you removed your gas cooktop. Then you could place one or both if needed on the countertop cover that was once over your gas range. No extra space required, and when only one eye is needed, you have extra space.

Ain't messing with motorhomes the best?

Good Luck!
Wil

[MSHappyCampers]

Thanks Wil, I appreciate your suggestions! I'll see what happens with the replacement cooktop True Induction is sending, then make a decision.

Your idea of setting two of the single-burner Nuwaves in the recessed area is something to think about!

[wil01]

Joe,
If you decide to go with two single NuWave Titanium units you will have two full 1800 watt units and will need two 20 amp circuits for them.

Good Luck!
Wil

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by wil01

Joe,
If you decide to go with two single NuWave Titanium units you will have two full 1800 watt units and will need two 20 amp circuits for them.

Good Luck!
Wil

Uh oh Hadn't thought of that! I'm not sure where I could get another circuit under there, but if it comes to that I'll figure it out!