Induction cooktop- INSTALLED!

[Clayobx]

Thanks for your research. I know it's helped me understand induction to a greater extent and what product knowledge to use in purchasing an upgraded induction cooktop when we upgrade our two burner Jen Air.

[Gordon Dewald]

We have not as well considered the differences in altitude. We are approximately 100 feet above sea level when snow birding. At home we are at 2200 feet and water will boil quicker.

[MSHappyCampers]

A little more info on my problem. I was only getting about 1350-1370 watts with my Duxtop cookware. Tony at True Induction thinks it may be the cookware and is sending me a large boiler to try. In the meantime, I got a cast-iron skillet about the same size as the cooktop eye and tried it. I still only get about 1350 watts at 109.5 volts with it.

Since they claim to provide the full wattage the outlet will furnish, approximately 1800 watts on a 15 amp outlet at 120VAC, then with only 109.5 VAC I should be getting 1642 watts. Right?

[slowmachine]

A single element won't draw 1800W, it takes both elements together to do that.



Mike
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PBD
Freghtliner XC, CAT 3126B

[wil01]

Joe,
I think either you or True Induction has that a little wrong. The maximum current the outlet can produce is determined by the circuit breaker capacity (15 or 20 amps) and the wire size.

Within those limits, the unit output is governed by ohms law (I = E / R): I = amps, E = volts, R = resistance. We can rearrange that to solve for resistance as R = E / I.

Watts is a calculation of power and is computed as Watts = V * I where V is voltage and I is amps. We can rearrange that to solve for amps: I = Watts / V.

The True Induction unit is rated at 1500 watts at 120 volts. The rated amp output is 1500 / 120 = 12.5 amps. The specified resistance is 120 / 12.5 = 9.6 ohms. We now have all the components of the specification and can use them in your situation.

You report 109.5 V so your output current is I = 109.5 / 9.6 = 11.42 amps. Your output watts are 109.5 * 11.42 = 1250 watts.

Sometimes it gets a little thick.
Good Luck!
Wil

[Bob&AnnaMari]

All this discussion raises a question regarding the wiring in your coaches. Using spaces heaters in our RV, when the furnace died for a couple of days, made me well aware that all the outlets in our rig are controlled by 15 amp breakers. And in most cases a number of outlets share the same 15 amp breaker.

Given the wattages of these induction cooking surfaces, how do you ever have more than one "burner" active at a time? I would think you would have to provide a completely separate circuit from the 50 amp line-in circuit to drive one of these multiple burner units.

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by wil01

Joe,
I think either you or True Induction has that a little wrong. The maximum current the outlet can produce is determined by the circuit breaker capacity (15 or 20 amps) and the wire size.

Within those limits, the unit output is governed by ohms law (I = E / R): I = amps, E = volts, R = resistance. We can rearrange that to solve for resistance as R = E / I.

Watts is a calculation of power and is computed as Watts = V * I where V is voltage and I is amps. We can rearrange that to solve for amps: I = Watts / V.

The True Induction unit is rated at 1500 watts at 120 volts. The rated amp output is 1500 / 120 = 12.5 amps. The specified resistance is 120 / 12.5 = 9.6 ohms. We now have all the components of the specification and can use them in your situation.

You report 109.5 V so your output current is I = 109.5 / 9.6 = 11.42 amps. Your output watts are 109.5 * 11.42 = 1250 watts.

Sometimes it gets a little thick.
Good Luck!
Wil

Wil, below is a section from the True Induction site describing operation of the double-burner cooktop.


"When it comes to power sharing, not all Double Induction Cookers are made the same. True Induction has advanced power invariance technology which makes all the difference. Here's why: Other dual induction units work in such a way that each burner uses half the power available from a standard outlet. Yet, with True Induction's power invariance technology, each burner can use up to the full amount of power available from that same outlet, cooking your food up to twice as fast. When both burners are being used the unit senses the amount of power coming into the unit, keeps demand power at its max, all the while enabling it to stay balanced. Because of True Induction's exclusive advanced technology when you use a double burner by True Induction you'll never have to worry about tripping the breaker or reduced power output.
The maximum power of an individual burner level is at setting 10. But, when operating both burners their combined total is level 10, meaning that when operating the two burners at the same time they’ll self adjust levels accordingly. When you increase the power of one side, the power output of the other side will reduce automatically (i.e., one side is at 6, the other burner automatically reduces power to level 4 creating a total of max 10 setting)."

Here is another section:

Features: With 2 burner cooktops you'll have more flexibility with cooking. You can warm one dish while boiling water for another.

Risk-free 60 Day Trial Satisfaction Guarantee
Dual Burners
Power-Sharing Technology
Built-in Safety Functions
Quick Touch Controls
Temperature Settings
Timer Setting
Two Year Limited Warranty*
Up to 1800 Watts
Smooth One Piece Ceramic Glass Top

[wil01]

Bob,
The True Induction double eye unit takes care of that by only allowing the 1800 watts to be divided between the two eyes.

Single units suffer from what you suggest.

My MH has two appliance receptacles connected to a 20 amp circuit and multiple items connected to another 20 amp circuit. We have uses the two circuits for a second cooktop or kettle, etc.

My convection/microwave is connected to a separate 15 amp circuit and can be used for any other purpose when not using the oven.

I also have a 15 amp circuit for the engine block heater. Since it is seldom necessary, I am considering connecting it to an outlet in the kitchen for other use when not needed to heat the engine.

When you modify, you must take your concerns into consideration.

Good Luck!
Wil

[wil01]

Joe,
Consider your quote:

"each burner can use up to the full amount of power available from that same outlet"

and especially the "up to the full amount of power"

It doesn't mean that it will always use all the power the outlet can provide. It means that the circuit is protected because the power usage of the unit is limited to 1800 watts -- the maximum for a 15 amp circuit. You really wouldn't expect the unit to put out 2400 watts (12 * 120) if connected to a 20 amp circuit would you.

My previous post is really how it works. The properties of the outlet just set the higher limit, not the actual performance of the unit. Within the limits of the electrical circuit, the unit (and maybe cooking pot) properties determine what actually happens.

Good Luck!
Wil

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by wil01

Joe,
Consider your quote:

"each burner can use up to the full amount of power available from that same outlet"

and especially the "up to the full amount of power"

It doesn't mean that it will always use all the power the outlet can provide. It means that the circuit is protected because the power usage of the unit is limited to 1800 watts -- the maximum for a 15 amp circuit.

My previous post is really how it works. The properties of the outlet just set the higher limit, not the actual performance of the unit. Within the limits of the electrical circuit, the unit (and maybe cooking pot) properties determine what actually happens.

Good Luck!
Wil

I only expect each burner to put out 1800 watts at 120VAC if only one burner is being used. That's 15 amps x 120VAC= 1800 watts

[slowmachine]

It's easy to get sidetracked and disappear into a rabbit hole of technical specifications. It's a cooking appliance. In an appropriately-sized pan, the True Induction cooktop will heat the pan contents to well over 400 degrees, which is higher than I ever want to see in my motorhome kitchen. You can accelerate warmup times in any pan by putting the lid on it. It's enough for nearly all cooking that I do. Not perfect, but good enough. Buy good pans.



Mike
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PBD
Freghtliner XC, CAT 3126B

[wil01]

Joe,
This is hard, but I must admit to the first mistake I ever made. I used 1500 watts in my calculations instead of 1800, but the logic is the same.

You are correct to expect a single eye to produce 1800 watts, but it seems that the cooking pot has an influence on the output since it is part of the circuit. It seems that the properties of the cooking pot can effect the resistance of the circuit, and therefore change the wattage and heat available.

You can never expect the specification output when the input voltage is less than 120 V.

Good Luck!
Wil

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by wil01

Joe,
This is hard, but I must admit to the first mistake I ever made. I used 1500 watts in my calculations instead of 1800, but the logic is the same.

You are correct to expect a single eye to produce 1800 watts, but it seems that the cooking pot has an influence on the output since it is part of the circuit. It seems that the properties of the cooking pot can effect the resistance of the circuit, and therefore change the wattage and heat available.

You can never expect the specification output when the input voltage is less than 120 V.

Good Luck!
Wil

Wil, Tony at True Induction also told me that the cookware can affect the power, and that's why he is sending me a boiler to try. He also suggested I try a cast iron pot or skillet, saying that they should pull the maximum power from the cooktop. As you read above, the power with the cast iron skillet was only 1350 watts, which leads me to believe that there's something wrong with the cooktop.

I gotta sign off for today. I'll check in tomorrow!

[Jim28730]

Out with the propane stove....in with the new induction cooktop