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Old 06-28-2022, 12:01 PM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 11
Jack Down light stays on

I have a 2002 Winnebago Sightseer on a Workhorse Chassis and on our last trip while just heading home i saw the jack down light come on. We had just travelled for six hours and it was 30+ degrees C. Never had an issue with this before always functioned as designed. I stopped and hit the ALL UP button and the pump started and stayed running and reached relief pressure. I turned the key off and it stopped. Restarted it and all was good except the jack down light. I have the only manual Kwikee Level Best system. I am hoping that after reading other posts on the topic that it was just the heat affecting components. I am letting it cool and will try if again today. I was surprised to hear the pump stay on. I guess the circuit that turns off the light will also turn off the pump. Also looked under the rig and all the jacks are stowed up. Any ideas as to where I might start to look to troubleshoot this system and from many of you that have had trouble in the past I have the question. "Will the Jacks work normally and just the light stays on or should it not be used until I can get a better look at it".
Thank you in advance for any assistance on this matter.
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Old 06-28-2022, 12:06 PM   #2
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The Kwikee Leve Best uses magnetic switches in the top of each jack to determine if it is up or down. There will be two wires coming out of the top of the jack and you can try jumping them one at a time until you find the bad switch.

Here's a thread I did about eight years ago when I had trouble with the jacks on our 2006 Itasca.

Hope this helps.
2017 Phaeton 40IH XSH Maroon Coral - Power Glide Chassis with IFS
Previously '15 Tiffin Allegro RED 38QRA and '06 Itasca Sunrise 35A
'16 Jeep JKU Wrangler Sahara or '08 Honda Goldwing
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Old 06-29-2022, 04:49 AM   #3
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Insure the oil level in the reservoir is up to max. when the jacks are stored.
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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Old 06-29-2022, 09:03 AM   #4
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I have the same problem. Mine is intermittent, but has not failed when I was in a position to debug it. I believe that I have narrowed it down to one jack. I disconnected and reconnected that sensor/switch a couple of times. It hasn’t failed since I took that action. Fixed???

Kwikee documentation does state/imply that the hydraulic pump will overheat and burn out if the pump is allowed to run. When my system acted up, I turned off the controlled after the jacks were retracted. (The hydraulic pump noise changes when the jacks are fully retracted – confirmed visually before moving.) Note that this switch is only used during the retract mode. Even with a bad retract switch, the system works normally when leveling.

That switch runs for $160 at
'06 Winnebago Voyage 33', W20, 8.1L
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Old 06-29-2022, 02:15 PM   #5
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Jack down light

Thanks to all for the replies. I checked where I could and physically looked at the jacks I could get at to check for leaks. None. I see the wires coming out of the top and the right rear wiring takes off over the fuel tank. I hope it come out the other side before they made the connection. I can't access that area yet. I did find a lose ground on the pump unit and as it is the ground connection for the daisy chain loop i had high hopes. Sadly that wasn't it but a good find. I was wondering if anyone knows what the two pin connector they use for the switches wiring harness. I could make up a jumper and that would help to find the problem jack.
Thanks again and I am confident that this is just the light issue. Jack seem to work normal as long as i work them individually.

Has anyone ever used the emergency retract jumper the talk about in the literature i got with the coach. I don't believe i got one and never thought about it until i have a problem.
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Old 07-13-2022, 04:42 PM   #6
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Just to update my issues with the jack warning light. I finally got to a place where it was level and I could block up the wheels enough to get under the rig and check out the wiring and test the jack sensors. Believe it or not but the first one, Left Front, I unplugged tested was the bad one. I had to check my ohm meter to see if it was working. I made up a jumper to plug into the existing plug of the wiring harness and no light. I have to admit that is the first time in my life I got the right one the first time. Thanks again for all the replies I got on this matter. This is a great resource for Rvers. Still need to fix the problem with the jack. I like the idea about the proximity switch strapped to the outside of the cylinder.
I think i did to go and buy a Lotto ticket.
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