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05-29-2021, 03:04 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFC
Let's try this again and I'll try to be a lot clearer.
Starting at the house. The 30A receptacle has its own 30A GFI breaker and shielded metal cable that runs to the new receptacle.
Starting at the RV, it has a 50A power cord that I have run through a couple of dog bones down to a 15A cord which is not a lightweight house extension, it is a larger wire, heavy duty cord made for outdoor use. That cord runs to an adapter that changes the plug from a 15A to 30A that plugs into the new 30A receptacle.
Clearer? I hope so.
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Clear, your limited to using 15 amps because of the extension cord.
There is no limiting device, you must limit it your self, or overload your cord.
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05-29-2021, 03:07 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFC
Let's try this again and I'll try to be a lot clearer.
Starting at the house. The 30A receptacle has its own 30A GFI breaker and shielded metal cable that runs to the new receptacle.
Starting at the RV, it has a 50A power cord that I have run through a couple of dog bones down to a 15A cord which is not a lightweight house extension, it is a larger wire, heavy duty cord made for outdoor use. That cord runs to an adapter that changes the plug from a 15A to 30A that plugs into the new 30A receptacle.
Clearer? I hope so.
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Yes that's pretty much what I read from your first one. The bottom line is you have a 15 amp cord, even if it's heavy duty, in-between the house 30 amp receptacle, and motorhome 50 amp receptacle, and you're running off of a 30 amp breaker in your house. That cord in-between the adapters is not even close to be being equipped to take 30 amps of 110 power, but as long as you only draw low amperage in your motorhome until you get the new cords, you should be fine. But do not try to start up the air conditioner or microwave or anything with the large draw while hooked up like this. By the way it's also never a good idea to use a whole bunch of adapters on a run like that. Each adapter can introduce resistance, and that means heat. You also always want to use as short of an extension cord as possible. If you're using a 50-foot 110 extension cord, but you could use a shorter one, use the shorter one.
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05-29-2021, 03:23 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don
Okay...very confusing. My understanding.......he took his 50 amp connection, at the RV, and reduced it with dog bones down to a 15amp extension cord (often done and safe). However, there are NO adapters to allow you to then take that 15 amp extension cord and up fit it to 30 amp at the other end. The only way to do this is to mickey mouse the extension cord or the dog bone at the 30 amp plug in the house. You can't up fit 15 amps to 30 amps in that direction. VERY dangerous if he did this!
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Sorry, I hate to tell you are wrong but I have an adapter that plugs into a 30 amp 120v single line, ground and neutral that you can plug a 15 amp cord into. We use it in Mexico where all the CG outlets are 30 amp. We use it to power the hot tub, instead of running it through the RV outlets.
I suspect that when he does it like that, he has an EMS that understands he is plugged into a 15 amp cord.
If not, and he has a 30 amp 3 prong to a 15 amp 3 prong and then another adapter to take his 50 amp to 30 amp to 15 amp and he tries to draw more than 15 amps on that extension cord we are talking fire. Probably the weak line being the extension cord.
Plug that 15 amp extension cord into a 15 amp outlet, dog bone from 50 on the rv to 30 amp then 30 amp to 15 amp and live with that until you get the right cords.
That is the proper way to do it safely.
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey
39K
Cat C7
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05-29-2021, 03:49 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 8,638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFC
We recently bought a Monaco Cayman 35' and I'm still trying to learn the ins and outs of this thing. BTW, this is our first RV.
I had a 30A receptacle installed in our garage, right near the garage door, so that when we have the RV home we can keep it plugged into the 30A power.
I'm still waiting for my 30A cords (2 x 25') to get here so I'm using a 15A, 50' extension cord with a receptacle plug to go from the 30A to the 15A, and dog bones on the other end to connect it to the RV's 50A power.
My question is this--what is in that electrical connections that keeps me from getting 30A to the RV? I'm guessing it's that converter that plugs into the receptacle and my 15A cord plugs into. Right?
If not, please educate me.
Mike
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If you have a properly install 30 amp Rv plug not a 30 amp dryer plug you should get 30 amps.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE 40V
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05-29-2021, 04:04 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 5 miles south of Lakeville, Mn
Posts: 3,047
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I understand.
I have a dog bone that converts a 110 volt 20 amp extension cord directly to my 50 amp plug on the coach. It does not supply 50 amps as it is only one 110v run with a common and ground.
It simply will not supply enough amps to run the AC or Microwave so we don't try to use them with that cord, but it will supply lights, TV, and keep the batteries charged. That's all I want in that instance.
I have our barn wired for both 30 and 50 amps so when it's parked there I can run everything.
I only run the 20 amps when backed up to the house for cleaning or getting ready for a trip.
Once you get your 30 amp cords you should be fine.
__________________
Jim and Carol Cooper with Oreo the Kitty
FAA ATC ret, VFW, AL, VVA, NRA
US Army Aviation, MACV Vietnam 65-66
2012 Journey 36M, Cummings 360hp
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05-29-2021, 08:07 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster
If you have a properly install 30 amp Rv plug not a 30 amp dryer plug you should get 30 amps.
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Accept he is using a 15 or at most 20 amp extension cord.
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey
39K
Cat C7
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05-29-2021, 08:19 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14,605
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OP has not been back.
But it sounds like he is using a 15 amp cord adapted to the 30 amp cord. If he has an EMS the best he can do is select 20 amp draw, still too much for the cord. If he has an inverter he might be able to reduce the charge rate to a low amperage level which will help.
I would basically turn everything off. Do not try and run the AC, micorwave, water heater. You might be able to use the refrigerator.
The 15 amp cord is not protected and could result in heat/fire at the plug ends.
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
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05-29-2021, 08:27 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,400
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How about this--the OP wants to know if he can plug-in his 50 amp RV with a "heavy duty" 15 amp extension cord of undetermined length into a new 30 amp plug-in in his garage that, may or may not, have been properly wired as a 30 amp, single pole, 120v RV plug. So what could possibly go wrong in this situation??????
__________________
Old Scout
2015 IH45 Foretravel
2003 Alpine 40' MDTS [Sold]
New Braunfels, Texas
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05-29-2021, 08:34 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14,605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout
How about this--the OP wants to know if he can plug-in his 50 amp RV with a "heavy duty" 15 amp extension cord of undetermined length into a new 30 amp plug-in in his garage that, may or may not, have been properly wired as a 30 amp, single pole, 120v RV plug. So what could possibly go wrong in this situation??????
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Absolutely NOTHING
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
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05-29-2021, 10:44 PM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFC
Let's try this again and I'll try to be a lot clearer.
Starting at the house. The 30A receptacle has its own 30A GFI breaker and shielded metal cable that runs to the new receptacle.
Starting at the RV, it has a 50A power cord that I have run through a couple of dog bones down to a 15A cord which is not a lightweight house extension, it is a larger wire, heavy duty cord made for outdoor use. That cord runs to an adapter that changes the plug from a 15A to 30A that plugs into the new 30A receptacle.
Clearer? I hope so.
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It is immaterial what you call your extension cord. Even the term "heavy duty" is meaningless.
You must not draw more current than the thinnest gauge wire in your circuit can handle OR the lowest rated plug anywhere in your circuit can handle.
If you try to pull 30a through a 15a rated connection the plug or receptacle will likely melt or burn.
The minimum wire size for 30A is 10 AWG.
The minimum wire size for 40A is 8 AWG.
The minimum wire size for 50A is 6 AWG copper, or 4 AWG aluminum. Don't use aluminum smaller than 4 AWG.
I'm struggling to figure out what is so difficult to understand. Does this solve your problem?
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05-29-2021, 11:02 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Pasco, WA
Posts: 118
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Yes, and thanks to all of you who responded. I appreciate each of you taking the time to reply and share your information.
Mike
__________________
2008 Monaco Cayman XL 35'
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05-30-2021, 07:18 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFC
...
I'm still waiting for my 30A cords (2 x 25') to get here so I'm using a 15A, 50' extension cord with a receptacle plug to go from the 30A to the 15A, and dog bones on the other end to connect it to the RV's 50A power.
My question is this--what is in that electrical connections that keeps me from getting 30A to the RV? I'm guessing it's that converter that plugs into the receptacle and my 15A cord plugs into. Right?
If not, please educate me.
Mike
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30 amp 120 volt to 15 amp adapter - It is designed to carry 15 amps. 30 amps will cause it to get hot and maybe melt the adapter or cook the insulation.
50 foot 15 amp 120 volt power cord - It is designed to carry 15 amps. 30 amps will cause it to get hot and maybe melt it or cook the insulation. Voltage drop through the cord when power is flowing will cause low voltage inside the RV.
Some of these cords are extremely light. Maybe 18 gauge. They will get hot fast and output voltage will be very low.
Some are heavy gauge. You might get buy with 10 gauge cord although the plug and socket may get hot.
Dogbone adapter may be OK. The 15 amp plug may get hot.
Multiple plugs and sockets - Generally only the 50 amp cord and one adapter are recommended.
Multiple plugs and sockets of the string of devices will cause voltage drop when high current is being drawn.
If you keep power draw to a minimum, there will be no problem. No air conditioning or electric heaters. Turn electric water heater "off". No electric coffee pot. Keep a close eye on the system if you need to run the refrigerator on electric.
A high capacity battery charger may draw a lot when the battery bank is deeply discharged. It will decrease power draw as batteries become charged.
You may have an electrical management system that can be set for "15 amps". It may limit battery charging to 15 amps 120 volts input and 150 amp 12 volt output.
I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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05-30-2021, 02:39 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Titusville, FL
Posts: 5,164
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I don't think it's that complicated folks. He has a 15A rated cord plugged into a 30A source. Doesn't matter what his motorhome is wired for. The 15A cord is not protected by an appropriately sized breaker and is subject to overheating if overloaded above the rating of the cord. The various adapters have nothing to do with circuit protection or load rating.
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.
2023 Grand Design 2600RB, 2022 F-350 King Ranch tow vehicle, Titusville, FL when not on the road
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05-30-2021, 04:00 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a7az
It is immaterial what you call your extension cord. Even the term "heavy duty" is meaningless.
You must not draw more current than the thinnest gauge wire in your circuit can handle OR the lowest rated plug anywhere in your circuit can handle.
If you try to pull 30a through a 15a rated connection the plug or receptacle will likely melt or burn.
The minimum wire size for 30A is 10 AWG.
The minimum wire size for 40A is 8 AWG.
The minimum wire size for 50A is 6 AWG copper, or 4 AWG aluminum. Don't use aluminum smaller than 4 AWG.
I'm struggling to figure out what is so difficult to understand. Does this solve your problem?
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Just have to keep in mind that distance plays a part of the calculation too!
Looking at the chart, a 10 gauge conductor is fine for a 50 foot run,,, if a person is ok with a 5% voltage drop. A 3% drop requires 8 gauge at that distance.
Wire Size Calculator
GFC, you can think of this kinda like plumbing. The bigger the pipe, the more water can flow through it. The extension cord you're using probably has 16, maybe 14 gauge conductors in it (it tells you on the insulation). The 14 is good for 15 amps but a 16 would be iffy approaching that amperage. It would heat up and possibly cause a bad situation if you put too much load on it because it'd more than the wire's capacity but less than the 30 amps required to trip the 30 amp breaker feeding the receptacle.
Having said that, you're probably fine running the frig and onboard battery charger with the set up you have now. As others have stated, don't try to run the a/c, microwave, or water heater element. I would periodically check the connections to make sure they weren't getting hot.
__________________
03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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