Community Forums

jbenson2010 · 06-15-2010, 02:08 PM

Hello everyone. I will be keeping my r.v. far away from any possible refilling station for my tanks (I have not even filled them yet, but in concern of using the shower soon, I am trying to find a solution) Is there a way to fill a smaller tank and then putting it in the one onboard of my class c, or should I just by pass everything and find a way to use a hot water on demand one, with a grill tank on a trailer hitch shelf? In the winter I want to avoid having to walk outside in the freezing cold to heat hot water for a shower, but there is no way to use a propane hot water heater inside. (Or is there? If I have a carbon monoxide detector directly over the area I will be heating water with windows open (Still warmer than being outside) can I heat water this way? Then use a battery powered pump to pump the hot water out?) I have been looking at the coleman hot water on demand, but I just cant seem to figure out how to make that work for the winter especially. The summer, I will be in a public space so I still have to use my interior shower, but heating water outside wont be a big deal, but come winter time, that will be the last thing I want to do. Any suggestions? Thanks for reading!

RustyJC · 06-15-2010, 02:16 PM

Are you going to be connected to shore power? Your water heater should have a 120VAC heating element in it. If you have electrical power and a 120VAC heating element in the water heater, you can have hot water.

Rusty

skigramp · 06-15-2010, 02:30 PM

Here are two ideas for you to ponder

1) There is a brass adaptor that you fits between your existing LP tank and the regulator that allows you to fasten a portable tank to the supply line of your RV ... they are generally called "Extend-a-Stay" or something similar to that ... the portable tank is connected by a hose or copper tubing.

2) Even if your existing hot water heater only runs on LP ... there are electrical heating elements that can be inserted into your tank by removing the drain plug and replacing it with the electrical element ... this will give you hot water if you are hooked to shore power ...

I hope this helps

Ray,IN · 06-15-2010, 03:19 PM

If I understand your post and questions accurately, you wish to heat water for use with an outside shower, right/wrong?

TandW · 06-15-2010, 03:26 PM

Sorta sounds as tho the poster has an old water heater that is operated from outside. Not enuff info here. He needs a warm-blooded buddy he can touch!

jbenson2010 · 06-15-2010, 03:33 PM

Thanks for the great responses so far! I went ahead and did some more research (physical inspection)I like the extend a stay option, but it looks like my lp tank is just about rusted out. I have an old rig (1979) and I am basically looking to extend its life for a few years until I gut it, and and replace everything. I dont know if I am just not intelligent, or if I have water pump problems. The tank is full, the water pump makes noise, yet I am unable to produce water in the bathroom or the kitchen. Im wondering if it makes sense to bypass the whole system. (Like I said, total gut and renovation in 2 years so anything I do will be taken apart anyways)

Maybe I will put a propane hot water on demand pump on the roof (removable obviously) Right above the bathroom vent so I can run the shower line through the roof vent and keep the propane and heating system outside.

As far as shore power, I will not have any. I will have a 2000 watt generator, but I think that option of an electrical heater will only work if I use the already existing water connections which so far are non existent. Does anyone have any foreseeable problems with using a 5 gallon water jug and a hot water on demand system on the roof. I will obviously rotate out the water jugs as needed and bring the on demand water heater inside the motorhome when transporting or leaving the motorhome unattended. But there is a coleman on demand water heater that runs on 1 pound tanks and batteries, it seems to have good reviews, and seems like it would be a good investment to hold off on complete water and propane overhaul on the r.v.

Thanks again for the responses and thank you advance for responses! Im so happy I am on this forum, you all are the best help anyone could ask for!

TandW · 06-15-2010, 03:57 PM

Do you have a water heater that is built into the rv. If you do then get it working. You need to trace out your water lines, making sure that the water tank is properly lined up to the pump. You may have a tank return valve open that is preventing pressure build-up. Good luck!!

wa8yxm · 06-15-2010, 06:33 PM

Two answers.. One question first.. In reading your post I sense a fear of the propane system. As in you are afraid to fill the tank, Either you are scared of a leak or scared it might "Go bad" Before you use it all.... If this is the case then fill your tank. first it does not go bad like Gasoline does, and the danger of a leak with a mounted tank is less than with a portable and that is very low if the valve is closed. Page 2.

If I read your post wrong (Very possible) and the problem is simply that you do not want to drive the 50 miles to the nearest Propane filling station with it (Ok however many miles) then

Marshall Brass "Extend-a-stay" or the "Stay-a-while" from Campign world (Basically, from what I understand, the same thing) I have the Marshall Brass type on my class A.

The Marshall brass adapter has the following features

Mounts between the tank valve and the regulator (I know it looks like the regulator can not be moved over.. but it can, the plastic cover comes off easily)

Has a "Quick Disconnect" For hooking up a hose to your portable grill,, Just like the "Extend-a-flow" (Another product for trailers with removable tanks)

Has an "INLET" for use with a portable tank (What you need)

Has a series of check valves to insure you don't accidently vent the gas in the main tank when you disconnect the portable tank, also so you don't vent back into the main tank (or vent via that inlet if you disconnect it)

And if I'm not mistaken it has an excess flow feature too, Safety incase you blow a line (May or may not be there.. Not 100% sure, but I recall reading it on the box)

Comes with a short inlet hose (Good for a 25 pounder) and a 10 foot grill hose.

Easy one person, one wrench install.

Ray,IN · 06-16-2010, 02:39 PM

Perhaps the water pump is not working because the winterizing valves are turned wrong. The water inlet should be open, normally the knob aligns with the pipe/hose; same for the hot water outlet pipe/hose. If there is a valve in a line between the hot and cold pipe/hose it should be closed. If the pump has a strainer on the inlet side it should be removed,cleaned, and replaced. In a worst case senario, the pump contained water during freezing temperatures, froze and ruined the pump (not motor), which may be replaced with a kit available at nearly any RV supply store.

The permanent LPG tank on-board your RV is probably OK. I've never heard of one requiring replacement. Any LPG refilling station will should be qualified to inspect and re-certify your tank if you would feel more comfortable.