Manual Leveling - With Under Wheel Blocks

[danperryy]

We have a motorhome that we use blocks under the wheels to level. It is always a bit of a challenge to level it with the proper height block (stack). I wrote a little spreadsheet that did the calculations to determine the block heights for each wheel to level the motorhome.
I use a free "bubble level" Android application laying my cell phone on the floor and reading the angles of the spot I will use for the home. I then enter the "tilt" values of the spot into the spreadsheet (that also contains the wheelbase and the track width for my motorhome). The spreadsheet then gives me the block height for each wheel. I place the blocks in front of the wheels and drive onto them. Whola - a level floor!!!

Note: orientation of level: Phone (level) aligned front/back of MH - top of phone to front of MH. A negative X angle says the left side is higher. A positive X angle the right side is higher. A positive Y angle the Front of the MH is higher.

Here is a link to the leveler spreadsheet (A Google sheet). To use it you may choose to copy it or allow "offline" use. Remember to set the wheelbase and track of your vehicle to get proper block heights.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

The following is a Master - non-editable copy of the sheet

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Note: Wheelbase, track with and block height all use the same unit of measure (inches, cm, rods, meters). Provide inch values for the WB and Track and you will get block heights in inches.

[gatorb8]

or LevelMatePro

[Mudfrog]

I'm sure some are crazy serious about getting their coach leveled perfectly. I know people enjoy doing these kinds of calculations. I know people love their phone apps. All fine and dandy but I myself am not interested.

I used blocks for years on our old motorhome and it didn't take long to get used to looking at the bubble level on the dash and knowing how much lift was needed at each corner. It's not rocket science (good thing it isn't or I'd be in trouble).

[jrollf]

I find there is no 'horizontal' surface that matches enough to get to picky. Put the level on the floor by the door... or the counter by the sink, floor in the bedroom or kitchen, etc. They ALL give different 'level' indications/readings... so what is truly level... who knows [emoji1787]

[153stars]

Wow 2"-6"-8" blocks for 2 ish degrees each way. Four inches with 2" timbers is the most I'll park a tire on. I mostly follow what did on my TT and only worry about blocking tires for leaning left to right. Unless obviously is a tire is some hole then do what I gotta do. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I'll use some boards ,dump bags until I feel one hit stops and coach start to list worse. Drop jacks one blocks that I already placed and level. I can usually hit half a degree each way manually to make sure front jack solidly down first.

[baraff]

Recently discussed in the following thread. Check out _Cabesa's interesting option to build your own leveling "appliance".
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f87/manu...ks-528688.html

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by Mudfrog

I'm sure some are crazy serious about getting their coach leveled perfectly. I know people enjoy doing these kinds of calculations. I know people love their phone apps. All fine and dandy but I myself am not interested.

I used blocks for years on our old motorhome and it didn't take long to get used to looking at the bubble level on the dash and knowing how much lift was needed at each corner. It's not rocket science (good thing it isn't or I'd be in trouble).

I agree with the above, after a short while, I could look at the coach and pretty much tell what I need. An even better idea is the LevelMate Pro. It automatically tells you how many inches you need at each corner. Even better, it allows you to pick the best spot, within the campsite, by telling you the most level area.

[DKRITTER]

When we had a TT we had those Andersen moon shaped levelers we liked really well.

[Teamfoxy]

When we had a class C, and used the blocks, I also got good at judging how many block to use without using any apps, spreadsheets etc.
Its the fridge that needs th be level, so that is what I use to calibrate any bubble levels that I place in the cab. The fridge needs to be within 3 degrees, not perfect.

[777 Driver]

Originally Posted by dutch star don

an even better idea is the levelmate pro. It automatically tells you how many inches you need at each corner. Even better, it allows you to pick the best spot, within the campsite, by telling you the most level area.

I like my Levelmate Pro. Easy installation/setup and it makes leveling simple.





Take care,
Stu

[HopsBrewster]

I use a free app called GPS Status which includes a bullseye level and I place my phone on the floor. I simply eyeball the number of blocks to use and call good enough "good enough". Only once have I had to start over again for under estimating the number of blocks. Now I've gone to the Anderson-type rocker-wedge levelers under the wheels and it's even simpler.

[pasdad1]

If you have a residential fridge, then it really doesn’t matter if you are level......we rarely level, as most sites are “level enough”.

If you do have an absorption fridge then level is mandatory for it to work properly however.

[Ray,IN]

The main problem with your manual leveling with blocks under wheels is the greater chance of twisting the frame and causing coach damage.

Originally Posted by pasdad1

If you have a residential fridge, then it really doesn’t matter if you are level......we rarely level, as most sites are “level enough”.

If you do have an absorption fridge then level is mandatory for it to work properly however.

Almost level is mandatory for cooling unit longevity, not exactly level. Absorbtion refrigerator safe operating limits are 6° front to back, 3° side to side, while standing in front of the refrigerator.
The rule of thumb is, if you are comfortable living and sleeping in your RV it is likely level enough.

[ArtJoyce]

I use blocks. But i'm not trying to level with them.

I have some 2x12's I drive on if I feel the rear tires are going off the ground. Something about being on a incline and having the axle with the parking brake off the ground???