Community Forums

IC2 · 11-29-2020, 04:41 AM

Why not make the doors a bypass pair if they clear the WD openings. You would need to do some minor wood working and find a heavy duty track system.* Or find an accordion door. Or hinge the existing from each side - which wont cure your problem but it would be at least only a single door instead of that bifold.. I went the other way and made 2 single doors into a bifold , again for accessibility andease of use.

* Our 5er has a bypass doored closet and the track was so puny that the doors kept bouncing off. Replaced that light duty track with a much better one and 20K miles later, problem gone

Daveinet · 11-30-2020, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SStravels

.... Now I have a large opening with no door or curtain. I think a curtain that I can pull back is the best option. I just haven't found the right one yet. ...Thanks

IF you have enough space above the W/D, have someone make a roll top desk. Put a counter weight on it, so it opens easily. While it might not be as fast as other options, it would be completely out of the way when open. When closed, it would look better than any other option.

The only other option I could think of would be to install a motorized shade. As long as the bottom was weighted, it should hold tight and probably look more modern than a curtain. Use some sort of suede material, so it doesn't look like just a cheap piece of cloth.

BDub1970 · 01-09-2021, 07:33 AM

Slapped some Method 901s on front and outside rear along with new Michelin Agilis. Wanted something a little different than the usual MBZ Sprinter steelies. Couldn’t be happier!

Jpool · 01-09-2021, 06:12 PM

Came across an issue with vent covers not aligning with the holes in the ducts above in our Mountain Aire allowing A/C and heat from heat pump to escape into the attic potentially causing condensation. Decided to remove the silicone that was originally used to seal top of plastic vent to bottom side of duct material, cut away any loose foil and applying new aluminum foil tape and trim. Using some 2” thick upholstry foam to fill void around opening and securing with glue. Hopefully now the foam will prevent any leaks in the future due to movement between ceiling and duct. The question I ask myself is if having proper ventilation in a typical house attic is require to prevent condensation, why is it that a motor home has none? With temps in the low 30s in North Ga where we are staying for the next 4 months, I am now on the hunt for air leaks.

dssl · 01-21-2021, 08:08 PM

I wanted to be able to wash my coach from the tank. Also wanted hot water for washing bugs. My coach had low point drains with valves on them. It occurred to me I could use those valves for my hose bib.

Click image for larger version

Name: 20210118_113829.jpg
Views: 114
Size: 160.6 KB
ID: 315370

If anyone nis interested the elbow is a 1/2 pex to NPT female and then one of these which is the only part not available from home depot

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07QS...b_b_asin_title

ScopesNC · 01-22-2021, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dssl

I wanted to be able to wash my coach from the tank. Also wanted hot water for washing bugs. My coach had low point drains with valves on them. It occurred to me I could use those valves for my hose bib.

Attachment 315370

If anyone nis interested the elbow is a 1/2 pex to NPT female and then one of these which is the only part not available from home depot

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07QS...b_b_asin_title

That's a good one. Well done.

IC2 · 01-22-2021, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dssl

I wanted to be able to wash my coach from the tank. Also wanted hot water for washing bugs. My coach had low point drains with valves on them. It occurred to me I could use those valves for my hose bib.

Attachment 315370

If anyone nis interested the elbow is a 1/2 pex to NPT female and then one of these which is the only part not available from home depot

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07QS...b_b_asin_title

Nice mod - useful with love bug removal

If you have an outside shower with a plug in fitting attached to an approx 4' hose, Amazon has a separate Valterra fitting that allows a standard garden hose use: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-PF24...s%2C224&sr=8-6

This works very well for my needs

ScopesNC · 01-23-2021, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1stCougar

back with more first screen door magic mesh works great,
had to cut down to fit doorway next kitchen pull down
facet easy install next stairs before and after last for
now lights the short shade with bulb sticking out
replaced with longer shade with 15degree led lights up
the bar and counter very good.
more to come.

Very nice additions. Well done.

Splat32 · 01-26-2021, 03:06 PM

Just replaced the OEM equalizers, shackles, bushings, and bolts with the Dexter EZ Flex kit. It took about 7 hours, but it was a beautiful, low-60's day here in southern NM.

Mjaybat2002 · 02-12-2021, 01:30 PM

Proof you can put slam locks on older doors opening upwards. YAY

Daveinet · 02-13-2021, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SStravels

I/we have a Legacy 36 foot class A and it has a large closet area with a washer/dryer in the middle of it. There is about 30 inches on either side of the WD. One side has shelves and the other an area to hang clothes. It had bifold wooden doors to close the whole area up when not in use. They stuck out in the walkway with the slide in or they rattles like heck on the road. So I removed them. Now I have a large opening with no door or curtain. I think a curtain that I can pull back is the best option. I just havent found the right one yet. Has anyone else yanked out those doors? Thanks

That's where this post went. Hey, I was in Menards the other day and came across a vertical cellular blind that might work. The ends are rigid plastic, while the accordion portion was a vertically hung cellular shade. The cells are only about 1 inch thick, so they will not take up any space. Use the search term Vertical Cellular blind to find them. Or "Verticell" from Bali or vertaglide from HunterDouglas.

PartyParrot · 02-27-2021, 04:08 PM

Managed to have perfect spot for the water tank under my rv basement bay rather on the very end of it under the bed causing tons of weight on a fulcrum point of the rv chassis.

All I took was disconnecting the lines finding the T point and swapped that for a elbow and put a T point on the other side closer to the sink.

Then ran the dedicated fill line to tank through exist spots where plumbing already is.

Re routed wires along in same direction the plumbing was going. I pulled them back to the furthest point I could and routed to basement with tank for level Guage and water pump.

I am now going to insulate the heck out of the basement and pipe insulation on everything I can.

And heat tape the water pump possibly if needed.

I have heat pads in my amazon cart I will order asap for water tank, black and grey tanks

Trying my best to turn the rv into a four seasons best I can.
Mostly adding insulation everywhere I can

birdsNboards · 03-05-2021, 10:12 PM

Over the past week, I've browsed all 111 pages of this thread and it's been a pleasure!! I've marveled at all the BIG beautiful RV's, ingenious engineering, beautiful cabinetry, and flooring! I wish I had more camper to work with so I could use a fraction of the good ideas, but there were still plenty of great ideas for my little 20ft TT. We've only had it for one season so the only modification I made was to add an inverter with 110v outlet.

Here's the must-do list I've gotten form this thread:
1. Pullout shelves in 2-3 cabinets
2. gutter or PVC fence post for sewer hose
3. residential faucets
4. door switch for automatic lights in cabinets
5. elevated, tongue rack for generator
6. Maybe... add a stylish backsplash

A few things I already knew needed to be done was to replace batteries and go from a pair of group 24's to a pair of 31's. The interior paneling and trim is cherry, except for the doors and drawer fronts, which are some kind of faux maple. They are straight-up ugly, and even though all the other cherry is just flimsy laminate, I'm going to replace the doors and drawers with real cherry frame and panel. I am a cabinet maker by hobby (mostly).

And finally, the one problem I came seeking solutions for was never addressed in all these pages... it's my hokey, wobbly, rattly dinette table. It's the style that has a single leg and hardware on the wall that holds it in place and lets it swing down to make the bed. Of all things, the leg is not my problem, its how loose everything fits at the wall. The 'male' table parts fit into the 'female' holder on the wall fine but it could go another inch for a really tight fit. Basically the table pivots on the leg and rocks side to side about half an inch because the clips at the wall are so loose.

I am so antsy to get the TT out of storage and get to work!!

ScopesNC · 03-07-2021, 06:48 AM

Sold our GD travel Trailer and bought a 5th wheel. I had put this adjustable split queen bed in the trailer , but when we sold it I took it out for the new 5'er . Finally got around to installing the beds a week or so back. It was a tad more difficult because in our last unit the bed was a queen and so is this adjustable bed. It fit in just right in the travel trailer. The new 5er has a king and so I had to play around a lot more in order to place it just right. We have what they call a split queen bed so we each can make separate settings. The 10 inch memory foam makes for a nice sleep. I also installed a 32 inch TV with sound bar while I was at it.