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Old 03-08-2021, 06:06 PM   #1555
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New entertainment equipment and cabinet mods.
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Old 03-08-2021, 09:43 PM   #1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhammond1980 View Post
New entertainment equipment and cabinet mods.
Nice work. Looks great.
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Old 04-02-2021, 12:47 PM   #1557
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Originally Posted by birdsNboards View Post
Over the past week, I've browsed all 111 pages of this thread and it's been a pleasure!! I've marveled at all the BIG beautiful RV's, ingenious engineering, beautiful cabinetry, and flooring! I wish I had more camper to work with so I could use a fraction of the good ideas, but there were still plenty of great ideas for my little 20ft TT. We've only had it for one season so the only modification I made was to add an inverter with 110v outlet.
[...]

And finally, the one problem I came seeking solutions for was never addressed in all these pages... it's my hokey, wobbly, rattly dinette table. It's the style that has a single leg and hardware on the wall that holds it in place and lets it swing down to make the bed. Of all things, the leg is not my problem, its how loose everything fits at the wall. The 'male' table parts fit into the 'female' holder on the wall fine but it could go another inch for a really tight fit. Basically the table pivots on the leg and rocks side to side about half an inch because the clips at the wall are so loose.
[...]]
Our dinette table doesn't swing down but it sure was wobbly and rattly against the wall. What I did was use 3M Command Picture Hanging "velcro" strips between the table and wall. The table is thick enough for a strip to fit lengthwise and I put four strips for our ~20-24" wide table. The "velcro" allows the table to be removed as necessary but provides a non-wobbly attachment to the wall. Fixed that oh-so annoying rattle whenever moving about in the trailer!

You didn't mention how much gap there is between your table and wall, but this might be worth a try.

cheers
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Old 04-03-2021, 08:48 AM   #1558
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Our dinette table doesn't swing down but it sure was wobbly and rattly against the wall. What I did was use 3M Command Picture Hanging "velcro" strips between the table and wall. The table is thick enough for a strip to fit lengthwise and I put four strips for our ~20-24" wide table. The "velcro" allows the table to be removed as necessary but provides a non-wobbly attachment to the wall. Fixed that oh-so annoying rattle whenever moving about in the trailer!

You didn't mention how much gap there is between your table and wall, but this might be worth a try.

cheers
Thanks for the idea. It took me a second reading to figure out what you mean but it makes sense. I used the same stuff to hold the cargo liner in place on my old Outback wagon. It's also an easier fix than building a new tabletop. I think part of the problem is that the wall-end table sits just a little too low. I can adjust the leg to raise the other end, but not at the wall. I figured I could just build a table about 1/4 inch thicker and reinstall the same hardware. As a furniture maker, building a new table is a breeze but as a busy, stay-at-home dad velcro fits my time-cruched life.
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Old 04-12-2021, 05:37 PM   #1559
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Changed out the small round 310 toilet for a 320. Lots more seat room and comfort. The lid and seat come down slow with out a sound.
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Old 06-05-2021, 12:33 PM   #1560
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Power monitor

Added two meters , one on each incoming leg, to read volts, amps , kWh etc.. Will be ordering label maker to mark all.
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Old 06-05-2021, 12:44 PM   #1561
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Added two meters , one on each incoming leg, to read volts, amps , kWh etc.. Will be ordering label maker to mark all.

Part numbers and price?
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Old 06-05-2021, 12:59 PM   #1562
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Power monitor

From Amazon
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Old 06-05-2021, 07:53 PM   #1563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdsNboards View Post
Over the past week, I've browsed all 111 pages of this thread and it's been a pleasure!! I've marveled at all the BIG beautiful RV's, ingenious engineering, beautiful cabinetry, and flooring! I wish I had more camper to work with so I could use a fraction of the good ideas, but there were still plenty of great ideas for my little 20ft TT. We've only had it for one season so the only modification I made was to add an inverter with 110v outlet.

Here's the must-do list I've gotten form this thread:
1. Pullout shelves in 2-3 cabinets
2. gutter or PVC fence post for sewer hose
3. residential faucets
4. door switch for automatic lights in cabinets
5. elevated, tongue rack for generator
6. Maybe... add a stylish backsplash

A few things I already knew needed to be done was to replace batteries and go from a pair of group 24's to a pair of 31's. The interior paneling and trim is cherry, except for the doors and drawer fronts, which are some kind of faux maple. They are straight-up ugly, and even though all the other cherry is just flimsy laminate, I'm going to replace the doors and drawers with real cherry frame and panel. I am a cabinet maker by hobby (mostly).

And finally, the one problem I came seeking solutions for was never addressed in all these pages... it's my hokey, wobbly, rattly dinette table. It's the style that has a single leg and hardware on the wall that holds it in place and lets it swing down to make the bed. Of all things, the leg is not my problem, its how loose everything fits at the wall. The 'male' table parts fit into the 'female' holder on the wall fine but it could go another inch for a really tight fit. Basically the table pivots on the leg and rocks side to side about half an inch because the clips at the wall are so loose.

I am so antsy to get the TT out of storage and get to work!!

Don't know if you've come up with a solution yet. I had the same lousy system and replaced it with a pneumatic center post used on boats. Cost about $600 and took a couple nights to install. To collapse the table you release the 2 clamps and push down in the center. To raise you release the clamps and the pneumatics lift it, once in place you lock the clamps. I glued a carpet strip on the side of the table near the wall since the cylinder does allow the table top to rotate. The carpet rubs the wall. If you're interested I could send pictures.
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Old 08-16-2021, 12:03 PM   #1564
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Just saw this sticky, spent a couple hours going through some of the mods and still have a ways to go. We picked up a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer last year, it was in excellent shape but there were a few things I wanted to update, figure this would be a good place to share.

The first thing I knew after day 1 was the giant, heavy old TV needed to go. It was too heavy and too obstructive of the view:


Step 1: Remove TV, thing weighed a ton. Just a few screws held the front plastic frame on and a bracket held the TV in place in the metal frame.


Step 2: Remove metal bracket and back half of plastic cover. Still no drilling or cutting yet. Just had to remove the 12v dome light and speaker wires. But now I was left with a nice big opening and could begin putting things back together.


Step 3:Installed wood framing. Used some 2x6 and made framing to mount the TV bracket to as well as framing that went behind the TV. This would later be used to hold a trim piece and remount the light and speaker. I did drill the metal frame on either side of the opening to run small lag bolts into the ends of the 2x6. I also notched the bottom 2x6 to help it carry the weight so all weight wasn't on the lag bolts.


Step 4: I mounted the TV bracket. Used this bracket from Amazon which is nice because it can be disengaged and pulled out a bit (though we never seem to use that but it helps to get behind the TV to hookup/plug in wires.

Step 5: Since the old, large TV was very deep and I was not re-mounting the large plastic cover that covered the back of the TV I had to fill a large gap. I used some 1/4" composite board painted to try to match the dash material. Remounted the light and speaker and got a nice somewhat finished look.

Finished product resulted in a huge difference in the view out the front. Also, the old heavy TV weighed a ton and definitely had some squeaks and rattles going down the road, the new TV is so much lighter and completely silent.

Next it was onto the rear bedroom TV. This TV sat in a large opening next to a cabinet. This one was much easier to replace.

After taking out the old TV I used a different mount, this time it was this one from Walmart. After removing the old TV I also removed the handle from the cabinet in the space to the right of the TV. I mounted the base plate to the bracket on the divider between the TV space and the small cabinet space (after I had added a piece of 1/2" plywood to beef up the spot where the bracket mounted). So the bracket is mounted on the "wall" immediately to the right behind the TV. Then, to keep the TV held in place, I used 2 short but kind of heavy bungee cords connected to the bracket where it mounts to the TV and the other ends are connected to the hole in the back of the cabinet that the power/cable comes through. These cords hold the TV tight in the pocket but allow you to pull the TV out enough to open the cabinet door to the right or to let you get behind the TV in the now mostly open cabinet space for misc storage. In a year of trips the TV has not moved or come out at all unless we pull it out intentionally. I have it angled slightly in the space so that it more faces the center of the bed, which is why the gap at the top looks a little uneven.

Other modsI've done:
Stick on tile in the kitchen area.


Fixed up the peeling decal and changed a couple over to red (from grey) for some color.


I have also added Boogey Lights under the canopy


And a non-visible upgrade/mod was self installed sumo springs front and rear as well.




On the list next (especially after reading this thread) will be residential faucets and the valve for the quick drain of my HW heater instead of removing the vinyl plug every time.
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Old 08-16-2021, 12:40 PM   #1565
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Nice job. It all looks great.
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Old 08-26-2021, 04:53 PM   #1566
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Originally Posted by kkocan72 View Post
Just saw this sticky, spent a couple hours going through some of the mods and still have a ways to go. We picked up a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer last year, it was in excellent shape but there were a few things I wanted to update, figure this would be a good place to share.
Looks great! Nice touch on both of the TV mounts. Especially like the bungee keeper.
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Old 10-13-2021, 01:46 PM   #1567
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Woven Vinyl Flooring

If you ever decide to remove the carpet from the slides there is a water proof option not commonly used in RVs. I installed Woven Vinyl Flooring on the main slide and in the bedroom. I had previously replaced both areas with an expensive carpet that I had thought would last. After 2 years it was starting to look bad. Woven vinyl flooring is used primarily on pontoon boats and is very durable. I did both areas of my coach that had carpet for $3/sq ft. in material. Biggest job was removing the cabinets and furniture on the slide. I couldn't use a product that was stiff because I had to have a flap that covers the transition between the slide and the main floor surface. I wish that I had used it in the rear bath instead of ceramic tile and saved #175 on my overloaded rear axle.


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Old 10-13-2021, 04:56 PM   #1568
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Is this glued down to slide? Do you have to finish the edge of the flap?
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