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Old 01-05-2012, 07:35 AM   #99
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Rearview camera

Installed color video camera with night vision on rear. Got lucky in that rear wall not secured to fiberglass end cap and there was enough space between them for an easy wire drop to bottom. Power and coax underneath protected with PVC conduit for all but last 3 or 4 feet up front. Seven inch TFT LCD monitor secured to dash with Velcro. Wires thru space between between decorative panel and main dash housing by beveling inside edge of both pieces so no visible wire hole. Monitor and camera power controlled by dash switch and independently fused.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:26 AM   #100
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That is a slick rear color monitor. It looks bigger than my TV.

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Old 01-05-2012, 10:02 AM   #101
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I like that velcro for the monitor and that was
a really good idea using the pvc to protect the
cable
I'm sure people are getting good ideas from this
thread.
to all keep them coming
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:12 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctpres View Post
We carry over 45 feet of hose and needed easy access and quick put-a-way for our one-night-stand travel style. Eight foot five inch PVC post, two post caps and ten foot gutter were main parts needed. Secured one end of post to frame using hinge for easy cleaning just remove screws on other end and drop to ground for rinsing and draining. Old broom handle screwed to both ends of gutter for handle and to keep stuff in place. Removable cap held in place with ½ in pvc pipe and lynch pin.
Darn it. . . another thing for the "things to do" list.

Sweet use of space.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:45 PM   #103
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Dang ctpres.

I did the same thing with a color rearview camera. But Where were you with the pvc idea. wish I had seen your idea first. I lost one camera to field mice chewing on the cable.

Great idea!
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:59 AM   #104
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Battery Minders
Our older coach as a fero-mag based converter, as such it is constant voltage at 70 amps available, BUT it is at a constant too high voltage and also pulls 5 amps (600 watts) in an unloaded state.

The generator battery is at the front of the coach, cabin and starting batteries at the rear.

We use te breaker to control the converter, but needed to add circuits for the battery minders.

So we located the 3 8 amp units in a cabinet under the bed, it was dead center between the two rear batteries, the other one needed to go under the dash, problem was no ac power in any of the locations.

We were able to push 3/4 PVC between the frame rail and the tanks from the back towards the front, a few busted knuckles but we survived.

Most DP have frames made of large C shape.

The items between the rails usually do not fill this space, and the cross members have an opening where it meets the frame rail for wires and hoses, there is usually room for the conduit, you just need a helper to shove it in while you guide the end through the openings, be sure your helper can hear you so they do not shove the conduit into your fingers...

We added a Bell box under the front hoo and in the rear engine compartment as junction boxes, added outlets because we needed something to connect the wire to anyway, then routed the wires to additional bell boxes where the minders were located.

Additonal conduits to get the connections out to the batteries.

While pulling the wires we also pulled a small tube/hose for a later boost guage and wires for battery monitor plus one more.

Advise for anyone else, PVC flex conduit is "sticky", the inner surface of this stuff creates a HUGE amount of drag on any wires.

So if there are any curves leave them all NOT GLUED, pull the wires in, make sure you are happy then glue the jounts, a lot easier that busting the glue loose to allow for straight pulls...dont ask how we know this, the knuckles will never stop complaining if you do!
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:17 AM   #105
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Hint more than a mod

We bought a cutlery tray to fit our silver drawer. One day I decided there was a lot of wasted space in that drawer and finally came up with this idea. Buy another cutlery tray - just like the first one, turn it around 180 degrees and set on top of the first one. Doubled storage, no work and only cost 99 cents.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:45 AM   #106
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Bedside reading lights

The lights over the bed were pretty much useless for reading so I added a real reading light on each side with LED end fired bulbs. All our overhead cabinets have false bottoms and that space is used for hiding and protecting wires. Our cabinets have about one inch of space and the bedroom cabinet side walls have the same double wall. So all I had to do was carefully measure and drill a hole thru the closet wall into the false bottom to access wires going to existing lights. Since I previously converted all interior lights to the lower power LED’s there was no problem adding lights to the same circuit. The end result is no visible wire and all I need is a ¾ inch plug to cover the hole. The first picture shows the hole from closet to overhead false bottom. The wire is already run in both pictures and the only sign of work will be the plug.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:50 AM   #107
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Hi Head Honcho where did you get the bedside
lights and what is the led bulb number looking
for that for our bedroom.
Also the double drawer good idea they make the
drawers so deep waste of space
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:22 AM   #108
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Screen door latch

A bit of Rube Goldberg fun here and great conversation piece. I can honestly say we have a crappy screen door! I have seen and read about many different ways to open screen door without moving the slider and picked this one just for fun factor.
Some toilet flush knobs come with a built in return spring - I just gave up looking. You can also buy some kits that do the same thing, ready to install. Camping world sells one - but you need to lift handle to open and I wanted the more intuitive down action to open.
This is 2fer mod - you get two in one. Screw for top of return spring is part of inside knob which is often easier to gab when closing the door. The only time consuming part of this Mod is fashioning the wooden spacer between flush handle and slider which is needed to move flush knob assembly in far enough to clear obstructions when opening the slider fully.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:50 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larcougar View Post
Hi Head Honcho where did you get the bedside
lights and what is the led bulb number looking
for that for our bedroom.
Also the double drawer good idea they make the
drawers so deep waste of space
I am JUST foreman - DW is Head Honcho Thanks for the promotion!.
The light fixtures were purchased for our previous RV and just never got around to installing them. Did a quick look on Ebay and Amazon and didn’t fine any like them. The original bulbs were #1383 12 volt 20 watt. But a much cheaper one in led is the #1156. End fire bulb simply means all LEDs are on the end i.e. a spot light. If you shop on eBay look for 2x 24 led white 1156, just checked and they are $2.59 for two, shipping included.
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Summer - Creede, CO Winter - Okeechobee, FL
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:01 PM   #110
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Tell Head Honcho to keep foreman he does good work
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:12 PM   #111
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I got tired of the flies coming in every time I
opened the screen door so I brough the magic
mesh screen door works great no flies or any
other bugs
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Old 01-07-2012, 02:35 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctpres View Post
A bit of Rube Goldberg fun here and great conversation piece. I can honestly say we have a crappy screen door! I have seen and read about many different ways to open screen door without moving the slider and picked this one just for fun factor.
Some toilet flush knobs come with a built in return spring - I just gave up looking. You can also buy some kits that do the same thing, ready to install. Camping world sells one - but you need to lift handle to open and I wanted the more intuitive down action to open.
This is 2fer mod - you get two in one. Screw for top of return spring is part of inside knob which is often easier to gab when closing the door. The only time consuming part of this Mod is fashioning the wooden spacer between flush handle and slider which is needed to move flush knob assembly in far enough to clear obstructions when opening the slider fully.
I love it!
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