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02-07-2017, 09:05 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
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Here is a great web site with four Youtube videos on "How to Convert a 30 amp RV to 50 amp service".
Don't be fooled as this young lady knows more than a lot of older male RV owners.
Dr4Film ----- Richard
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02-07-2017, 09:35 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film
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While I haven't looked at the entire post, she does go into it a lot deeper then what is required for a just general change over to 50 amp service. A good read/watch regardless .
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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02-09-2017, 06:02 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Deep in the Heart of Texas
Posts: 610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Have you considered rewiring your 5er for 50 amp service?
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If you'll read back above you'll see that I'm not trying to run it off the 30 amp service... It will be on it's own separate service.
__________________
"Cracker Box" 2007 Jayco Greyhawk 33DS on a Chevrolet C5500 Kodiak
"Yellow Hammer" 1982 Jeep CJ5 V-8 4x4 Tow'd
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02-09-2017, 06:48 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L.C.Gray
If you'll read back above you'll see that I'm not trying to run it off the 30 amp service... It will be on it's own separate service.
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Do whatever floats your boat ........
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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02-09-2017, 06:59 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 633
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I've seen portable A/Cs that sit on the floor inside and just run a hose to a window for air exchange. Might be easier than trying to mount one on the roof and allows you to still use the vent other times.
Walt
__________________
Walt & Bonnie
2006 Monaco Camelot 40PAQ, Cummins 400 ISL
'22 Ford Escape PHEV, Roadmaster BP, Sterling towbar
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02-09-2017, 07:12 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 36,940
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Portable A/C's are very inefficient.
Unless it's a dual hose unit, they draw conditioned air, out of the room to cool the coils. That creates a negative pressure in the cool room, causing hot air to seep in from warmer rooms.
A standard A/C isolates inside and out side air.
Portables work, just use a bigger one then calculated.
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02-18-2017, 09:58 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Deep in the Heart of Texas
Posts: 610
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To update this thread... the second unit is installed now.
The bad... It has been more complicated in the details than planned... I really didn't take in account how large the ceiling panel of the new unit would be and what all might interfere with it's installation. Ceiling trim had to be modified, a light fixture relocated and one of the existing ducted unit's ceiling vents is in the way. Snaking the wire across the ceiling was much more work than planned. Wrestling that head unit up atop of the TT isn't for the faint of heart. I have worked through each and every obstacle one at a time, but I see that maybe the RV Techs really do earn their money on jobs like this.
The good... I've saved a ton of money. I actually caught a winter sale on the 13.5 unit and had the optional heat package added all for only $509 shipped to my door. Besides that I prolly don't have $40 in materials to complete the job.
__________________
"Cracker Box" 2007 Jayco Greyhawk 33DS on a Chevrolet C5500 Kodiak
"Yellow Hammer" 1982 Jeep CJ5 V-8 4x4 Tow'd
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02-19-2017, 05:48 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: "Murvul", TN
Posts: 1,710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L.C.Gray
To update this thread... the second unit is installed now.
The bad... It has been more complicated in the details than planned... I really didn't take in account how large the ceiling panel of the new unit would be and what all might interfere with it's installation. Ceiling trim had to be modified, a light fixture relocated and one of the existing ducted unit's ceiling vents is in the way. Snaking the wire across the ceiling was much more work than planned. Wrestling that head unit up atop of the TT isn't for the faint of heart. I have worked through each and every obstacle one at a time, but I see that maybe the RV Techs really do earn their money on jobs like this.
The good... I've saved a ton of money. I actually caught a winter sale on the 13.5 unit and had the optional heat package added all for only $509 shipped to my door. Besides that I prolly don't have $40 in materials to complete the job.
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Good for you L.C......and it sounds like a job well done. Trailers are, to me, a lot harder to make wiring changes/additions than a house. Houses usually have either a basement and attic or at a minimum, an attic to be able to work in and make wire pulls.........trailers, not so much.
I had an enclosed trailer for hauling motorcycles that I bought brand new in 2011. In 2012, I had decided to add a rooftop A/C unit to it (I already had an existing 14" x 14" roof vent that would be removed). There is a trucking company about 4 or 5 miles from my house that transports new boats and they have an outside overhead hoisting system for loading boats. I went and talked to the owner and he agreed to let me use the hoist to set the A/C unit on top of my trailer for a price of....$00.00 So on the day, I drove over there with the A/C unit in the back of my truck, pulled in under the hoist, lifted it up then pulled the trailer forward to the vent area under the hoist and lowered it down and unhooked it. I pulled out of the way so that they could use the hoist for their normal business, then bolted it down for the ride back to the house. I really didn't have much choice but to get some kind of help, as I had just had triple hernia surgery about three weeks prior.
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