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Old 07-17-2021, 04:45 PM   #1
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Mounting Residential Fridge

I picked up the new fridge a couple days ago. No problem removing the bedroom window to get fridge in the coach. While I was able to get the Norcold out of the front door; the new fridge was slightly wider. I still need to close off the vents. Definitely have some trim work to tend to.

In the meantime Im trying to figure how to best address the front wheels sticking out two inches. I will be raising the floor as the Norcold was 63.5 and the Frigidaire is only about 60. I would like to keep the wheels but obviously need to provide support so the top is not leaning forward and fridge is secure in cabinet Any ideas?

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Old 07-17-2021, 04:54 PM   #2
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No idea how yours fits but what I did when I put in a res fridge .......... the bottom back of the res fridge had the compressor etc at the back bottom behind a grill. Took the grill off, reached in through the original rv fridge vent from the outside of the rv and screwed the bottom of the res fridge to the floor that the fridge was on. Screwed 2 X 4s along the wall on top of the fridge to hold the fridge in place.
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Old 07-17-2021, 05:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netjam View Post
No idea how yours fits but what I did when I put in a res fridge .......... the bottom back of the res fridge had the compressor etc at the back bottom behind a grill. Took the grill off, reached in through the original rv fridge vent from the outside of the rv and screwed the bottom of the res fridge to the floor that the fridge was on. Screwed 2 X 4s along the wall on top of the fridge to hold the fridge in place.


Okay yeah the back is no problem. Just trying to figure out securing the front bottom where wheels are positioned.
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Old 07-17-2021, 07:40 PM   #4
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I bought 2 heavy angle brackets from Lowes and mounted them under where my leveling feet were. I removed the leveling feet, mounted the bracket underneath (I did have to add some support blocking underneath to be able to mount the bracket) marked the hole location for the foot and marked the length sticking out to match the existing support. Took it off, drilled a hole for the threaded foot to go through and trimmed it off to match the length. Painted it black and remounted and then put the leveler foot in up through the bracket.

To hold the top in I bought a ~2' piece of 1.5" AL angle, cut in half, drilled some screw holes to mount to the front wood face of the cabinet, painted them black, and then used heavy duty double sided tape. Located them on the side of the refrigerator and then used screws through the angle.

Hasn't moved since I did the above.
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Old 07-17-2021, 08:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I bought 2 heavy angle brackets from Lowes and mounted them under where my leveling feet were. I removed the leveling feet, mounted the bracket underneath (I did have to add some support blocking underneath to be able to mount the bracket) marked the hole location for the foot and marked the length sticking out to match the existing support. Took it off, drilled a hole for the threaded foot to go through and trimmed it off to match the length. Painted it black and remounted and then put the leveler foot in up through the bracket.

To hold the top in I bought a ~2' piece of 1.5" AL angle, cut in half, drilled some screw holes to mount to the front wood face of the cabinet, painted them black, and then used heavy duty double sided tape. Located them on the side of the refrigerator and then used screws through the angle.

Hasn't moved since I did the above.


Thanks jacwjames! Very helpful. Do you happen to have a pic of the mod to the front feet?
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Old 07-17-2021, 08:42 PM   #6
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Here's a picture of one of the brackets I installed. I did add blocking material to be able to add the bracket and brace the frame that I installed to support the fridge. As you can see it is upside down but it shows what I did.
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Old 07-18-2021, 03:54 AM   #7
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Chuck-

The short answer, based on my installation, is that you you need to support the lower front edge on your refrigerator- not necessarily the feet or rollers.

I replaced our Norcold N821 with a Frigidaire FFET1022UB. That model has front feet (rather than rollers) that are separate from the hinges, so different from yours. Some of how I did things may apply to your install, though:

1) Front, bottom: Removed feet (too tall). Put 4" x 3/4" x 3/4" pieces of wood horizontally under the edge of the refrigerator box, resting on top of the cabinet face. Blocked the refrigerator in the opening with small wedges on each side.

2) Front, top: Made custom bracket of 1-1/2" aluminum angle to go from side to side, using slightly longer screws through the top hinge hinge holes. Painted black. Screwed bracket to refrigerator, then to the face of the cabinet frame.

3) Rear, bottom: Made custom bracket of aluminum that both holds the refrigerator from moving inward (out of the cavity) and upward. This provides the same function as screwing through the baseplate, without the difficulty of doing so (not many places to do so on that model). Blocked the refrigerator in the opening with blocks of stiff foam on each side.
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Old 07-18-2021, 05:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
Here's a picture of one of the brackets I installed. I did add blocking material to be able to add the bracket and brace the frame that I installed to support the fridge. As you can see it is upside down but it shows what I did.


Great install!
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Old 07-18-2021, 05:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Chuck-

The short answer, based on my installation, is that you you need to support the lower front edge on your refrigerator- not necessarily the feet or rollers.

I replaced our Norcold N821 with a Frigidaire FFET1022UB. That model has front feet (rather than rollers) that are separate from the hinges, so different from yours. Some of how I did things may apply to your install, though:

1) Front, bottom: Removed feet (too tall). Put 4" x 3/4" x 3/4" pieces of wood horizontally under the edge of the refrigerator box, resting on top of the cabinet face. Blocked the refrigerator in the opening with small wedges on each side.

2) Front, top: Made custom bracket of 1-1/2" aluminum angle to go from side to side, using slightly longer screws through the top hinge hinge holes. Painted black. Screwed bracket to refrigerator, then to the face of the cabinet frame.

3) Rear, bottom: Made custom bracket of aluminum that both holds the refrigerator from moving inward (out of the cavity) and upward. This provides the same function as screwing through the baseplate, without the difficulty of doing so (not many places to do so on that model). Blocked the refrigerator in the opening with blocks of stiff foam on each side.


Mark-

I appreciate the detailed steps! Sounds like there might be some things that can definitely be carried over to my install. Do you happen to have pictures?
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Old 07-18-2021, 05:34 AM   #10
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I had to lower the floor to fit our 20+- cf Frigidaire refrigerator. When I did, I just made the floor larger so the front wheels would be resting on the new floor. I didn't want anything down in the toe kick area that would cause any damage to my piggies.

Like others have mentioned, I used a lag bolt through the frame in the rear of the refrigerator to secure it.

I closed off the vent covers by using the blue Styrofoam board insulation cut to fit the vent louvers.
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Old 07-18-2021, 08:15 AM   #11
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Here is a link to my install that was done ~2 years ago. Finally got a chance to give the refrigerator a good test as I have been on a +1 month trip. It held temps in +100F temps in Wyo. Overall power consumption seems low as I can last overnight with batteries going from 90% to 70%, I have 325 watt solar, not quite enough to keep up so I run generator ~1 hr before going to bed when boon docking if batteries are less then 80%.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sam...ne-461001.html
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Old 07-18-2021, 10:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majicchuck View Post
Do you happen to have pictures?
Just a few. I downsampled them; they don't show the detail that well. You can see some of the detail at the rear and front, bottom.

The bracket at the top doesn't show very well. If you want another view of it, I'll have to take a new picture.

iRV2 member (and moderator) "Spk64" installed the same model. I got some of the ideas from his posts (link here), including the top bracket (although I bolted it onto the refrigerator cabinet, rather than using high-bond tape).

One of the challenges is leaving enough room at the top, bottom and sides for convection to occur. I believe it's the evaporator coils that are in the refrigerator sidewalls that heat the air in the refrigerator cavity. Impede the circulation of that air and the refrigerator performance suffers.

Another challenge arose because the face of the cabinet is not flat. You can't see it, but the upper-right corner of the face "fades back" about 3/16 of an inch. This was how it was built at the factory, and it made it difficult to properly seal the face trim so it would not pass combustion fumes (from the Norcold days). In any case, the top bracket is cocked so that it is flush to the cabinet face even with the refrigerator corner sticking out 3/16 of an inch. That took some "fiddly" work, and I was glad I used screws instead of tape, so I could adjust until things were "just so."
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Old 07-18-2021, 11:21 AM   #13
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Okay decided to add plywood base that extends out to accommodate the the front feet/wheels. Boy I was overthinking this! I should have cut piece to extend few more inches . I still can anchor down and support from underneath. Picking up stain to match existing woodwork. Kicking myself that I somehow knicked door. Might have to bite bullet and replace door if I cant cover the blemishes. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-18-2021, 11:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Just a few. I downsampled them; they don't show the detail that well. You can see some of the detail at the rear and front, bottom.

The bracket at the top doesn't show very well. If you want another view of it, I'll have to take a new picture.

iRV2 member (and moderator) "Spk64" installed the same model. I got some of the ideas from his posts (link here), including the top bracket (although I bolted it onto the refrigerator cabinet, rather than using high-bond tape).

One of the challenges is leaving enough room at the top, bottom and sides for convection to occur. I believe it's the evaporator coils that are in the refrigerator sidewalls that heat the air in the refrigerator cavity. Impede the circulation of that air and the refrigerator performance suffers.

Another challenge arose because the face of the cabinet is not flat. You can't see it, but the upper-right corner of the face "fades back" about 3/16 of an inch. This was how it was built at the factory, and it made it difficult to properly seal the face trim so it would not pass combustion fumes (from the Norcold days). In any case, the top bracket is cocked so that it is flush to the cabinet face even with the refrigerator corner sticking out 3/16 of an inch. That took some "fiddly" work, and I was glad I used screws instead of tape, so I could adjust until things were "just so."

Mark, I have a Whirlpool that I installed last year and can't be happier.
What do you use to keep the doors shut during travel?
Thanks!


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