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Old 03-08-2014, 06:44 PM   #29
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lubed it

I was trying it again today. I threw the wall switch and the steps retracted. then like MAGIC, they changed their mind and extended. Now that was with just one switch throw. Talk about finicky. So there I stood, switch up, switch down, switch up, switch down. all I heard was a click then nothing.

So now I lubed it up and did everything all over again. this time I with the switch up I opened the door and then closed it. WALLA damn step came in. So I gave a lot of exercised and hope it will work ok.

Still going to put an alarm on the step tied to the ignition.
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99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:08 PM   #30
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But then I live a life of coincidence

Glad you got it kinda sorted out!
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:10 PM   #31
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Well, I'm back after spending quality time with some nice doctors and other medical types.

O.K. Back to the step problem.
Changing out the magnet on the door and frame was a real treat. Must have been a wire shortage when my MH was built because they didn't leave an extra inch of wire to work with. And the problem persists.

Switched the wires to the motor and now the motor turns the right direction. BUT. It continues to click, click, click after full open and full closed. So. I'm going to town and find a part store with a new motor.

Will update when I get it installed. I'm getting very tired of this. It is time to hit the road and still have the problem.

This Fleetwood just might be for sale tomorrow.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:12 PM   #32
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Most step motors are car electric window motors. Easy to find.
Mel (Melanie) and Harry
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:50 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by ladagobago View Post
......One thing I did find is that if I remove the power to the step by pulling the connector plug it then will work fine for some time.
Exact problem I'm having. All the lube in the world is NOT the cure.

Just to add.... my chassis battery keeps getting run down.... intermittently. I've studied whats happening trying to avoid just throwing parts at it.

When the steps are in the in-operable mode. (You know it when its happening. IE - The stair worked perfectly five minutes ago, now it wont go up. Mine always sticks down it has always worked in the up to down stroke.)

Anyway... when the stairs are stuck down a load is drawn from the chassis battery. I'd guess about 10 amps as it makes a pretty good spark when you disconnect and re-connect the battery cables. I checked the step motor when this was happening and it was cool to the touch. (Surprised with a 8-10 amp draw) Removing the step motor fuse for a few minutes and re-inserting will cause the current usage to cease.

Then if the battery is fully charged the steps will start working again.

Apparently the step controller monitors the current draw and stops the motor when an obstruction or end of travel occurs. I believe it's supposed to remove power form the motor as well but I have no schematic so I'm just guessing. I haven't replaced my controller yet. Was hoping someone else would have been the guinea pig. But thats where my foam finger points

I've lubed, replaced the switch and ALWAYS the fix has been remove the motor or now just disconnect the wires. The next piece of the evolution is to just remove the step fuse (25amp). You'll see if that fixes it too. I've only done the fuse once and it was the same day I disconnected the battery cables, so I'm waiting for it to happen again so I can verify my results. I'm more and more convinced the root of the problem is the controller. Mine is a '99 model and so far since I've had the coach (2-years) the stairs have been problematic.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:08 PM   #34
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The click, click, click you are hearing could be the plastic gear, part # 11, inside the housing the motor shaft moves into to turn the knuckle for steps.
Here is blow-up of parts.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:28 PM   #35
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It the relay that runs the motor and step lights. Mine makes the same sound.
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:24 PM   #36
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After fooling around with my steps a few times, I replaced the entire setup with a new unit. It was worth it. Did the install myself. Had a couple wiring/polarity problems that are now fixed. Happy.
2004 Tiffin Allegro 27.5 ft. P32 18,000 lb GVW. 8.1 liter. Workhorse chassis built May 2002. 24,500 miles. 2012 Jeep Liberty Toad. RVi2 brake unit.
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:54 PM   #37
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stair motor replacement

What yr Ford Taurus is the motor. I have a 06 Itaska and the steps seem to be great then they just won't come out. Then they just start working again.
The local RV shop wants $370 for the "kit" which has the motor controller and gears. I am pretty sure it is the motor. The hinges are well lubed and when working it goes smoothly.
I want to get a motor first.
Thanks, Bob
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:55 PM   #38
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I'm having the same problem, and doing my research, motors can be had for around $60. Comments imply that switching them out is pretty easy and straightforward.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:46 AM   #39
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The motor is late 80's early 90's Ford Taurus driver door window motor. Advance Auto has them for less than $50. To be safe take your old one with you if you have a newer coach, some changes were made in the last few years.
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:51 PM   #40
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Fl Richard you are right, the motor stops when a high current is detected by the controller, and of course that is determined by where the step stops are placed.
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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