Need help with new inverter install

[Skripo]

My Xantrex Prowatt SW 2000 was acting flaky and finally died. After calling Xantrex, I decided to step up to a Xantrex Freedom Xi for its 4000 watt surge and built in 30 amp auto switch.

I removed the Prowatt, the remote panel, external auto switch and installed the Freedom Xi. I made sure to use black as live, white as neutral and am properly grounded to the chassis. They say you should bond the ground to neutral and I imagine that was done internally through the inverter.

Everything seems to work fine until I plug in to shore power. Even if the inverter and DC power is turned off using the cutoff switch, they both turn on when I plug in. I can't even shut off the inverter or use the cutoff switch to turn off DC! What did I do wrong?

All help appreciated!

[vgabond]

Originally Posted by Skripo

My Xantrex Prowatt SW 2000 was acting flaky and finally died. After calling Xantrex, I decided to step up to a Xantrex Freedom Xi for its 4000 watt surge and built in 30 amp auto switch.

I removed the Prowatt, the remote panel, external auto switch and installed the Freedom Xi. I made sure to use black as live, white as neutral and am properly grounded to the chassis. They say you should bond the ground to neutral and I imagine that was done internally through the inverter.

Everything seems to work fine until I plug in to shore power. Even if the inverter and DC power is turned off using the cutoff switch, they both turn on when I plug in. I can't even shut off the inverter or use the cutoff switch to turn off DC! What did I do wrong?

All help appreciated!

Hello,

Did someone recommend to use black as the hot (live) or you just decided to use it this way.
How was the old one hooked up? Was it using black as the hot? Normally, devices like chargers and inverters follow the color code where black is the ground connected to chassis frame. By changing it like you did you reversed the polarity.
Try hooking the inverter with black as negative without any connected load.

And don't t plugin to shore power while doing this test.
Please come back and keep us posted what you find and I'm hoping you didn't fry your inverter.

[twinboat]

In 120 and 240 volt AC wiring black is hot on 120 volts, black and red are hot on 240 volts, white is neutral, and green or bare copper is ground.

You got that right.

You removed a free standing auto transfer switch, correct ?

Is it possible that you wired the in and out wires backwards ? There should be " line in " and " line out " markings.

" Line in " would be the wires that are powered when on shore power. It sends power thru the built in transfer switch.

" Line out " will be the wires OUT to your outlets. It will have power on it when there Is no shore power and the inverter is on. It will also have power on it when it is passing thru the shore power.

Double check them.

[Skripo]

I called Xantrex and they confirmed that the my unit was behaving normally.

Thank you for all your responses.

[Skripo]

[QUOTE=vgabond;3779130]Did someone recommend to use black as the hot (live) or you just decided to use it this way/QUOTE]

That's how the install guide showed it should be wired. A/C house wiring is opposite DC in that Black is live and white is neutral.

As previously noted, everything I described is normal operation according to Xantrex.

[Gary RVRoamer]

You are right on the color code for the 120vac wiring, but not the DC wiring (the battery connections). There is no standard color code for DC wires like there is for 120vac.

You don't have to do anything to the inverter re bonding. That is handled internally, as you suspected.

The whole purpose of the built-in transfer switch is to provide 120v power through the inverter whether on shore power or battery, so yes, you should have power output regardless. I think that is what Xantrex is telling you. The inverter is always "on", but it is only inverting from the battery when there is no shore power present.

[Skripo]

Sorry but I have to disagree. After 40 years of working with vehicle DC systems, black is always ground and red is always positive.

[Gary RVRoamer]

After 40 years of working with vehicle DC systems, black is always ground and red is always positive.

Then we will just have to agree to disagree. I could give numerous examples, including my last coach (white hots, black grounds) and many various colors in different parts of the wiring harnesses.

I'll grant that red is a common color for positive battery cables, and black for ground, but it is nothing like universal and you cannot rely on color code like you can in AC wiring. There is nothing like the NEC standards for vehicle wiring - just common practices that vary by manufacturer and type of system..

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by Skripo

Sorry but I have to disagree. After 40 years of working with vehicle DC systems, black is always ground and red is always positive.

Google " 7 pin trailer plugs " and see that they use red, black and other colors for the positive supply. There is even a graphic of red being used for brake lights or left turn signal.

[Skripo]

Ever buy 12 volt battery terminals? You get a red one and a a black. Ever look at 12v battery termina covers? Red and black. 'Nuff said, glad we settled that

As to the other uses, that's the rv guys making it up as they go along. Same way they "engineer" the rest of the coach.

[Gary RVRoamer]

that's the rv guys making it up as they go along.

That was the main point. A large part of the wiring is done that way. If you rely on color codes in DC wire, you are in for surprises.