Community Forums

SyrenSkywolf · 03-05-2014, 10:40 PM

Admin please move if you think there is a better spot for this. I felt it encompassed more than MHs or TTs specifically.

I am going to be installing new carpet this weekend hopefully. We got a good deal on a color we absolutely loved, plus good padding for cheap.

For those who have installed new carpet in their RV, what works better: tack strips or folding the edges of the carpet and stapling? It is a pretty plush carpet, so I don't want it to look odd if it ends up being too thick folding. It is a dark carpet, so I don't want the staples to show. We do have a coffee table that we do slide around, but our TT does NOT have a slide-out, so that is a non-issue.

Also, I would like to curve the carpet where it will meet up with the yet-to-purchase Allure flooring in the kitchen. The door is right across from one side of the couch, so I want the carpet to cover in front of the couch, but not the door. Allure will extend from the kitchen to there. I could do a diagonal cut, but for the update we are going for, it feels like that would be too lazy looking? I'm trying to find a transition strip that will work for curving that will also work with stretched carpet, and not look cheap. I found one, but the company states it isn't for stretch carpet (no tacks on it). Our color scheme for various pieces (door handles, floor registers, etc) is oil-rubbed bronze, so I'd like to keep the transition strip close to that.

Do I really even need a transition strip, or is there a trick to doing it without them? Doesn't hurt to ask

CJBROWN · 03-05-2014, 11:01 PM

What was left of my carpeting after removing for allure I folded and stapled the edges. It comes out clean, smooth, and secure. I have never seen tack strips in a RV, I suppose that could work, but I'm not sure how it would protect the carpet edge without a trim piece or something. In a house there's either a transition strip, usually metal, or a baseboard molding. I think you'll have to fold and staple.

H. Miller · 03-06-2014, 04:57 AM

Fold and staple then there is no need for transition pieces or tack strips. We used a good 1/4" pad but would use 1/2" today. Curves are easy with staples.

Ernie Ekberg · 03-06-2014, 05:35 AM

if you want a professional look: tack strip and Z-bar for the transition. and there are manufacturers that use tack strips in rvs

SyrenSkywolf · 03-06-2014, 07:54 AM

Lol thanks for the reply on both sites Ernie. I've heard you do great work

CJBROWN · 03-06-2014, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ernie Ekberg

if you want a professional look: tack strip and Z-bar for the transition. and there are manufacturers that use tack strips in rvs

Thanks Ernie...that implies my installation is amateurish.

Razzman · 03-06-2014, 08:41 AM

Ditto what Ernie said. I just had the carpet replaced in my coach and tack strips were used. Very clean looking without issues, especially where the carpet butts against the engineered wood i installed. the old carpet was folded and stapled, didn't like that as when walking on it you could feel that folded section. Here's some pics from install day

CJBROWN · 03-06-2014, 08:49 AM

Looks nice.

That works with a thicker hard floor where the carpet edge can tuck between the tack strip and floor edge. With vinyl or as OP mentioned, allure, you need a trim strip or otherwise some kind of carpet edge finish. That's why I said fold and staple. If you have a metal edge strip then you're going to step on that - which is harder, edge mold or carpet folded edge?

Each installation is going to have some varying requirements to make it come out looking and working good. My flooring update is about 5 years old and still looks like new.

Mac99 · 03-06-2014, 09:07 AM

As to the pad, there is no such thing as good cheap pad. For motorhomes
and boats I recommend using a high density (15lb-18lb) 1/4" thick pad.
Using 1/2" thick pad allows too much vertical travel when walking on it,
resulting in wrinkling and buckling of the carpet. I lay even money
that Ernie agrees, we've both been in the business for over 35 years.

SyrenSkywolf · 03-06-2014, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macandphyl

As to the pad, there is no such thing as good cheap pad.

What I meant was we got a better pad at the cheaper ones price because they didn't have enough left in stock.

SyrenSkywolf · 03-06-2014, 10:56 PM

To give everyone a visual:

The carpet/vinyl transition will be from the corner of the entertainment center to the corner of the couch. It just seems like a straight angle from one to the other wouldn't look right, and I don't want to square off the corners if I don't have to. Besides, that is my side of the couch, and I don't want my outstretched feet on the threshold.

I might cut down on the outer curve, so it is a little straighter there (have a smaller curve near the entertainment center, and a smaller curve closer to the couch, with a straight piece in between), but I want to leave plenty of carpet for in front of the couch.

SyrenSkywolf · 03-06-2014, 11:03 PM

You know, I do like this style better, but still involves curves.

SyrenSkywolf · 03-06-2014, 11:25 PM

Would going Pergo (laminate wood) make the transition easier, because of less height differential? What are the thoughts of Pergo in the kitchen area, and more importantly, in a TT (extra weight up front)?

Gary RVRoamer · 03-09-2014, 08:21 AM

My coach OEM carpet uses the fold & staple method, even on the curved tile borders. I'm about to replace it after 10 years and have misgivings about folding the carpet around a fairly sharp curve in the tile edge, but will give it a try. Success may depend on the density of the carpet weave and stiffness of the backing. You also need room to work in - a big chunk of carpet is bulky to fold.

I have the Z-bar transition strip on hand in case the folding is impractical. My wife actually thinks the Z-bar will look better than no strip - the pewter color Z I bought is an almost perfect match for the carpet color.