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Old 10-19-2024, 11:58 AM   #1
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New guy winterizing question

Ten year old camper that is new to me. Book says use compressed air method or dump antifreeze into fresh water tank and pump through system. I bought t valve that goes on suction side of Shurflo pump but must be metric threads and does not thread on. Plan was to blow system out then pump antifreeze through all valves and toilet flusher to be safe. Any of you guys had problem's with compressed air blow out and pour antifreeze down toilet and all traps?
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Old 10-19-2024, 12:10 PM   #2
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Buck,
On our coach I use the blowout method, after draining the system. Drain the water heater and find the low point drains and the fresh water tank drain too.
We disconnect the pump on both sides and remove the strainer to drain the pump. You only need the pink stuff for the "P" traps.

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Old 10-19-2024, 12:22 PM   #3
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Buck,
On our coach I use the blowout method, after draining the system. Drain the water heater and find the low point drains and the fresh water tank drain too.
We disconnect the pump on both sides and remove the strainer to drain the pump. You only need the pink stuff for the "P" traps.

Mike in Colorado
Drained hot water tank, low water spots and toilet flusher using 30 psi air.
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Old 10-19-2024, 12:38 PM   #4
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Buck,
Re the toilet, I always disconnect the waterline going to the flush valve and blow some air backwards in that line and then exercise the valve a few times to drain it. This after having to replace a valve a couple of years ago because it froze.

Mike in Colorado
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Old 10-19-2024, 12:46 PM   #5
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Drained hot water tank, low water spots and toilet flusher using 30 psi air.

Straight drain and blow out does work. I thought I'd save money by only using the pink stuff in the drains after a compressed air blowout one year, but I went back to using the pink stuff after a couple of my single handle faucets wouldn't work the next spring after doing compressed air only. One wouldn't pass any water, and the other would only pass a trickle. Not a strainer or supply issue. My assumption was dried calcium clogging the mechanism. I was able to get one working, and the other I had to replace. Went back to blow out and fill the lines with antifreeeze, and never had a repeat of that experience.
I've seen other posts about similar problems, so I'm not the only person that has had this happen from a compressed air only winterization.



I think compressed air is fine for a short term solution, like if you're going to travel in early winter to a warm area shortly after it starts dropping down below freezing where you're currently parked. But for a full winter storage cycle, I like to keep the lines and seals wet with the pink stuff.
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Old 10-19-2024, 01:17 PM   #6
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You don't want to put it in the fresh water tank.
You should have a diverter/winterizing valve at your water pump and you switch the valve to the hose you put into your jug of antifreeze.
I blow my lines myself, I disconnect the water line to the toilet over the winter as well.
I use 40 psi, and going around and open the low point drains, all the faucets and flush the toilet until only air is coming out.
I than dump antifreeze down the drains.
I run my waterpump dry and any residual water usually doesn't cause issues in the last 4 years of doing this.
PS putting a note over your water pump switch helps to remember to connect the toilet in the spring, otherwise you get an unpleasant surprise of water pouring down your floors. some campers have the diverter valve some dont and some use a panel that you move levers to the correct position per the diagram.
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Old 10-19-2024, 02:39 PM   #7
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My current camper, a Road Trek 210 P is the first camper I have had that it was recommended to put RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank. To me, that is a bad idea. I had a valve added to the water pump inlet so I can switch the input to the pump to a hose I can put into a gallon of antifreeze for winterizing. I do drain all of the water out of the system first. Including the hot water tank before it is bypassed.

Folks with adjustable compressor outputs use compressed air. I am not one of those lucky folks. I have used RV antifreeze since 2006 with no problems on six RVs.

One subtle note, during the winter all manual water valves are opened after the pump is shut off for the winter.
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Old 10-19-2024, 02:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Ten year old camper that is new to me. Book says use compressed air method or dump antifreeze into fresh water tank and pump through system. I bought t valve that goes on suction side of Shurflo pump but must be metric threads and does not thread on. Plan was to blow system out then pump antifreeze through all valves and toilet flusher to be safe. Any of you guys had problem's with compressed air blow out and pour antifreeze down toilet and all traps?

Most winterizing kits are installed by cutting the fresh water line from the tank and installing it in the line. The kit should have come with the needed adapters.
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Old 10-19-2024, 03:35 PM   #9
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Putting the anti-freeze in the fresh water tank to pump it through works fine, it just takes a few more gallons of anti-freeze then using a siphon hose.

I have found that raising/lowering the tongue so the anti-freeze in the fresh water tank is closer to the pickup can cut the number of gallons of anti-freeze you need by a couple of gallons.

You can NOT do what the manual says, but what's the worse case? Instead of spending $24 at Walmart for 6 gallons of antifreeze, you can replace a water pump, shower, bathroom, kitchen faucets, or a toilet, or replace some water lines.

$24, even $36 a year, seems cheap insurance for a +$10K TT. I consider it a cost of owning a TT. Trying to save $24 while risking the high cost of repairs just doesn't make sense to me. YMMV.
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Old 10-19-2024, 03:44 PM   #10
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Plumbing varies greatly between makes and models of RVs. Other considerations include where you live and how cold does it get there and how long below freezing on a daily basis.


A few RVs have low level drains that will drain much of the water system. Neither my 5th wheeler nor MH will drain very well at the low level drains. Blowing with air may work in some rigs and fail totally in others. the problem is low areas like a "U" can clear part way but will leave water standing in the low areas sometimes. Depends somewhat on air pressure and volume of air you generate.



In my case I will frequently see 0 and below, low as -20+, lasting for a few day. Many nights in single digits or teens. Typically breaking 32 in the days.


So I do the following:


1- Drain fresh water tank, turn off valve between tank and pump
2- Turn off and drain hot water heater, turn on the winterization bypass valves.
3- Pump RV antifreeze from the siphon hose upstream from the pump. Run this through every hot and cold facet, including outside shower.
4- Pump AF with second pump into the city water inlet. This section would not normally be flushed by the only the siphon method.
5- May also pump AF into the black water flush line.
6- If you washer, ice maker or other devices follow those instructions. Same for on-demand water heaters.
7- Then I use compressed air to blow as much of the AF out of the hot and cold lines as I can. This is when I seen just how much blowing does not push out all of the water by blowing alone. The amount of AF I get out is much less than I put in.
8- Pour about a pint into every drain/trap, including the shower.
9- Leave several inches of AF in the toilet bow to prevent drying out the seal and back up of gas in the RV.
10- Assuming that I drain the waste water tanks first, I'll leave what ever AF that drained into those tanks.


In my case I have residential water pressure regulators just inside of the city water connection that needs to be protected that draining or air won't do.


Most years we use one or both RVs multiple times in the winter and thus I de-winterize and winterize multiple times every year. I can do either rig in less than 45 minutes. While camping we sometimes encounter temperatures around 0F and the 10 - 20s most nights.
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Old 10-19-2024, 04:26 PM   #11
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You don't want to put it in the fresh water tank.
.
You can, it really doesn't hurt anything. My current coach doesn't have a winterizing kit, and the manual says to add antifreeze thru the gravity fill.
I was going to put a winterizing valve in, but adding antifreeze in the gravity fill like the manual says is easy enough, and seems pretty much fool proof.
I usually fill and empty my fresh tank twice at the beginning of the season, and that seem to work just fine getting rid of the antifreeze. YMMV
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Old 10-19-2024, 05:08 PM   #12
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You can, it really doesn't hurt anything. My current coach doesn't have a winterizing kit, and the manual says to add antifreeze thru the gravity fill.
I was going to put a winterizing valve in, but adding antifreeze in the gravity fill like the manual says is easy enough, and seems pretty much fool proof.
I usually fill and empty my fresh tank twice at the beginning of the season, and that seem to work just fine getting rid of the antifreeze. YMMV

Depending on how completely your fresh water tank drains, it may have as much as 3 gallons of A/F left in it. It would take a lot of filling and flushing to dilute what's left in the tank to a safe level, and you may still have the taste.

They say the A/F is not toxic, but also say not to drink it. ????
A winterizing kit is not hard to install and doesn't cost much. It also saves the amount of A/F you have to use.
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Old 10-19-2024, 05:19 PM   #13
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To winterize your camper, use compressed air to blow out the water system at 30-40 psi, opening all valves and drains. Afterward, pump antifreeze through the system to ensure no water is left behind. For the T valve issue, check for NPT thread compatibility or use an adapter. Finally, pour antifreeze into the toilet and all P-traps to protect those areas from freezing. This method is effective and safe, ensuring your system is fully winterized.
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Old 10-21-2024, 02:03 PM   #14
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If you have a black tank flush don't forget to blow out/antifreeze it as well. Mine has a low point and I'm not comfortable doing just the blow out.
I use a hand pump to push some antifreeze in.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P235.../dp/B00594AAJS
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