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Old 09-12-2020, 04:53 PM   #1
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New refrigerator?

Motorhome is 2009 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. I have about had it with the Notcold frig. The Norcold is a N1095 which is not a 4 door model. I believe 9.5 Cubic ft. Dimensions are 58" tall 23.5" w and 24 deep. Has anyone here replaced one of these with a residential unit? I have found several that will work as far as width and I can go higher as I could remove cabinet above and rework but depth has been a challenge. If some one else has replaced their Norcold with a residential unit please let me know what unit you used.
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Old 09-12-2020, 08:06 PM   #2
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I replaced a 10cuft Dometic with a Haier several years ago. Couldn’t be happier.
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Old 09-12-2020, 08:31 PM   #3
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I replaced a 10 CF Dometic also.
Whirlpool 11.6 from Orange Box Store.
60 5/8" Tall (cabinet) x 24" (cabinet) x 22 5/8" deep (front of the cabinet).
The doors are 3" thick, and a little taller and wider than the cabinet.
Here is the link to the dimensions.



https://www.whirlpool.com/content/da...-w11440351.pdf


Hope that this helps.
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Old 09-13-2020, 05:53 AM   #4
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There are several residential refrigerators that will fit your current opening with only minor mods. I decided on a Frigidaire FFTR1022QB which, once removing the doors, fit thru my door opening. (current model FFET1022UB)

I did a ton of research before replacing my Norcold RV refrigerator and this one came out #1 by far. If you plan to make the conversion, there are some issues.
1. These fridges are not built-ins and will require clearance for air circulation. The Frigidaire needs only an inch on either side, which is probably all you'll have anyway. The back only requires 2" clearance. Other brands wanted far more. Don't be tempted to skip that. They do call for 12" on top, which is impossible for a MH. Instead I installed fans (see #2 below).
2. Operating temperature. Other brands I looked at said their fridge wouldn't operate below 60 or above 90 degrees, and warned against using in a garage. No such restriction on the Frigidaire. Just keep it between 10 and 110 degrees, per the manual.
3. It fit my existing opening with only minor modification.

Installation:
1. I installed a separate 120v outlet controlled by a switch inside the MH so that I could easily turn the unit off when not needed without going outside to pull the plug (some units do not have an on/off switch).
2. I chose not to seal off the existing outside openings. I put a screen on the lower opening and installed 3ea. 12v fans in the upper vent to assure good air circulation. I used the 12v wiring from the old Norcold and put the fans on a thermally controlled line with a separate switch inside my MH.
3. In the back, I anchored the unit by putting 2 lag bolts through the bottom metal rails of the refrigerator into the flooring.
4. Inside, I attached (using 3m 3M Scotch 4910 VHB Tape 2 sided tape) 2 metal brackets to the top of the refrigerator and then screwed these to the wood above the refrigerator. I then trimmed around the perimeter of the fridge with black plastic L channel which I purchased from Display Products online ( Extrusions by Display Products Online). This can be purchased with the tape already attached.
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:41 AM   #5
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If your present fridge has adequate capacity for your needs then I would check with JC Refrigeration for a compressor-type cooling unit replacement!
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Old 09-13-2020, 05:01 PM   #6
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Thanks for the advise. I plan on adding a separate bank of batteries and inverter and charger for the refrigerator only. I only have 2 - 6 volt batteries and inverter that came with MH so I have doubt that will do for TV's and frig. Most I would be off grid would be over night without genny or plugged in. We do stay a Walmart over nights when getting to car shows. I will also look into installing JC unit.
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Old 09-18-2020, 05:06 PM   #7
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Got it done! The worst part was get old Notcold out. Getting new 10.1 in a piece of cake. As quick as this refrigerator cools down I am going to just run on 120 for now and see. I plugged the unit in after letting sit for 24 hours and from 90* it was down to under 40 in two hours, so if it is already 45 or so the run time on genny should be short to get it dow to 35 or so, Have to modify cabinet slightly but do custom cabinetry and remodeling so no big deal. Thanks for all the advise.
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Old 09-19-2020, 02:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc70 View Post
Got it done! The worst part was get old Notcold out. Getting new 10.1 in a piece of cake. As quick as this refrigerator cools down I am going to just run on 120 for now and see. I plugged the unit in after letting sit for 24 hours and from 90* it was down to under 40 in two hours, so if it is already 45 or so the run time on genny should be short to get it dow to 35 or so, Have to modify cabinet slightly but do custom cabinetry and remodeling so no big deal. Thanks for all the advise.
gmc70,
May I ask *which* 10.1 cuft. fridge you purchased and installed? There are a few on the market but, the availability of many of them is scarce. We just changed out our 16 year old Norcold N1095 for a Magic Chef 10.1 cu.ft. Stainless steel model from Home Depot. I got the fridge in with no issues and created my own way of locking it in place for travel. I'm gonna order the little gizmo for keeping the doors closed while in travel since, most residential fridges do not need such a thing when in the kitchen of a residence. Nor do they need to be *held* in place since most houses don't drive down the road at 65 mph and run through moutain curves.

Anyway, just wondering which make/model you purchased.
Scott
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Old 09-19-2020, 05:39 PM   #9
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WE also used the Magic Chef and had to widen the opening by 1/8". What door Lock are you going to use? Doors seem to seal very tight so I don't know if really needed but I don't know for sure. The fridge went from 90* to -1 in freezer and 39 in a few hours so cools really quick.


















chef
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Old 09-20-2020, 10:06 AM   #10
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FIRE UP

Same question as GMC70 regarding the Door Restraints?
For now, I just installed 4 cup hooks and use bungee cords until I find a better way.
Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2020, 10:54 AM   #11
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This is a refrigerator lock you can get, Thor part #0315479. It comes in a 3" & 4" (same part number??). Call Tanya at Total Value RV 574-262-4460 ext 20. Part cost @ $7.50 + shipping. I attached it to the refrigerator using the hinge screw holes provided to reverse the door swing.

https://damondiva.blogspot.com/2015/...ator-lock.html
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:07 AM   #12
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FIRE UP Same question as GMC70 regarding the Door Restraints?
For now, I just installed 4 cup hooks and use bungee cords until I find a better way.
Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc70 View Post
WE also used the Magic Chef and had to widen the opening by 1/8". What door Lock are you going to use? Doors seem to seal very tight so I don't know if really needed but I don't know for sure. The fridge went from 90* to -1 in freezer and 39 in a few hours so cools really quick.
chef
gmc70,
Well Sir, glad you're happy with your new MC fridge. I don't know if you red the owners manual or not but, on one of the pages for the "do's and don'ts" it clearly states:

1. This refrigerator IS NOT intended to be used in an RV!

2. This refrigerator IS NOT intended to be used with an INVERTER!

Well, neither one of us red that manual 'till that Magic Chef 10.1 fridge 'till it was completely installed and, I'd created a system to lock that fridge in place for travel since about 99.999999999999999% of residential refrigerators are not designed or setup to be CONTAINED into their respective position for travel in a motorhome.

Not only is it not intended to be used in a motorhome and not to be used with an inverter but, it's also supposed to have FIVE INCHES OF CLEARANCE on both sides of it!!!!!!!!

Well, I think we may have around 2" on the sides but, that's max. The back has about 3" and the top, quite a few. Now, I don't know what your plans are for any running of it WITHOUT being on shore power but, the Magic Chef 10.1 fridge, does NOT PLAY WELL WITH MSW inverters!!!! I found that out the hard way.

So, looooooooonnnnnnnggggg story short, as I'm typing this, (sort-a) I'm installing a brand new, KISAE 1000 watt, PSW inverter that has a built in transfer switch, along with *0* gauge cables from the battery to the inverter.
I'd been advised all kinds of remedies in regards to that new fridge not liking MSW inverters. I simply chose the new, 1000 watt PSW to answer my issue. We don't *remote* camp very often but, even when traveling, I'd like that fridge to KEEP COLD and not start to warm back up, especially when we're running down the road in 100+ degree temps. So, that's my thoughts on that.

Now, as far as the fridge door lock, well, yeah, you may think your magnetic seals are strong, they're not strong enough to hold a gallon of milk sliding out and off the shelf and pushing the door open on a right hand curve. I'm pretty careful on this stuff but, all I can say is it happened and I wasn't going all that fast. So, we devised a temp restraining order on that door! The lock I'm thinking of is represented below. in the last post.
Scott





Quote:
Originally Posted by TB673 View Post
FIRE UP

Same question as GMC70 regarding the Door Restraints?
For now, I just installed 4 cup hooks and use bungee cords until I find a better way.
Thanks!
TB,
The lock I'm thinking of is represented below. I could fabricate one up and still might but, for now, that one will do.




Quote:
Originally Posted by veraken View Post
This is a refrigerator lock you can get, Thor part #0315479. It comes in a 3" & 4" (same part number??). Call Tanya at Total Value RV 574-262-4460 ext 20. Part cost @ $7.50 + shipping. I attached it to the refrigerator using the hinge screw holes provided to reverse the door swing.

https://damondiva.blogspot.com/2015/...ator-lock.html
veraken,
Well, that exact fridge door lock is around $21 at etrailer.com with or without shipping, I can't remember. So, I found either your link or someone else that linked that same RV supply place back east that had the same lock. And, as stated in that link, it is $7.50 or so NOT INCLUDING SHIPPING. I emailed them and asked for shipping costs to my zip code. I got an answer back wanting my address and it would all be added up and sent. That IS NOT WHAT I ASKED THEM!!!!!!

I asked for shipping costs because, in many cases, one may find a particular product at a considerable discount (at least from other advertised prices) only to find out the shipping is phenomenally high, even for a very small item that will fit in a USPS small box which, is around $7.20.

If they (that RV parts supplier that's asking $7.50 for it) used USPS small box flat rate, the total cost is close to $15.00 + or -. That's ok, nothin's free. But, I asked them again, WHAT IS THE SHIPPING cost? I've not gotten any replies. This does not mean I won't go with them, but, it's just not that hard to answer an email. We'll see.
Scott
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Old 09-20-2020, 05:30 PM   #14
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I read both lines about not for RV and inverter. I had intended on a PSW inverter from the start and can't imagine why that is any different from shpore power, a MSW yes they don't play well with lots of electrical things. As for the not intended for RV, I don't know. I have about the same space around mine as you but I do have 12 Volt fans in the compartment that push and pull air up and out the roof vent that I installed when we had the Notcold. Buying the refrigerator at a box store I did not have a chance to see manual before purchase. The women salesperson was very short and rude. It was like she was doing us a favor to get it for us. At one point when we were looking at it she told us if you want it let meknow and walked away and disappeared for 10 minutes or so. I will not be back to that store again.
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