New RV: Dealer negotiation tips?

[wepterson]

We're looking at a quite popular model made by Outdoors RV. I begin with this to make the point that it may be a seller's market. Regardless, anyone have any tips, advice, or links on negotiating with a dealer on $?

FWIW, this will be our first new RV purchase from a dealer (other purchases have been private party).

Thanks in advance.

wep

[Scooter]

This has been discussed more than a few times. Do a search. It seems 20% to 30% discount off the sticker is doable. Be polite. Ask to deal with the sales manager, not a mere salesman. We are getting near the 2015 models. Don't let DW queer the deal by gushing out loud how much she loves the unit you have picked out.

[DieselTech39]

Glad you're aboard. Best of luck in you negotiations. Enjoy your adventures and be safe.

[Gary RVRoamer]

15% off MSRP should be easy to get. 20-30% may be possible, but not all dealers will go that low.
Your basic tool is your feet: walk away if you can't get the deal you like. "Money talks; nobody walks" is the vehicle salesman's mantra.

A now-departed friend and lawyer, Pete Smoot, offered this advice on RV negotiations:

1. Don't take the deal personally -- the dealer isn't. The coach you "love" is just a "unit" for the dealer, no different than any other. If he gets what he needs on the coach, he'll sell it to you. If he doesn't he won't -- no matter how much you beg, cry or scream.

2. The dealer (and the salesman) are not your friends, no matter how nice they are to you. They will try to get every penny they can for the coach -- that's how the game is played. So don't assume their first rock bottom offer is the best they can do -- it almost always never is. And don't be personally insulted they wanted that much money for the coach. Every now and again they get it. Just don't let them get it from you. We had a friend who years ago was thrilled he got $10,000 off sticker on an Eagle. Never did have the guts to tell him he paid too much.

3. Don't worry about pissing them off or insulting them with a low offer -- see Rule 1. They will sell you the coach -- if you can agree on a price -- no matter how ridiculous your first offer is. The only thing you might lose with a really low first offer is some credibility that you are really interested in the coach or can afford it.

4. Don't get caught up in any emotional head games they may try to play on you. I know Beaudry and most other good dealers have "salesman's school" where they try to teach their guys how to sell a motorhome. Don't believe the "This offer is only good for today" line. Tell em you'll call em tomorrow.

5. Your only job is to get the coach as cheaply as you can. Their job is to get as much as they can for each coach they sell. You don't need to take your salesman out to dinner or buy him chocolates. If you bought a coach, he's gonna be happy -- especially in today's business climate.

6. Similarly, you don't need to worry about whether the dealer is making any money on the deal. That's HIS problem. If he asks you how much you think he should make on the deal, tell him you don't care if he doesn't make a nickel. You just want the coach as cheap as you can get it.

[Fred and Bonnie]

Adding on to Gary's comments, "He who wants the deal the least will win"

Fred

[Tha_Rooster]

Don't get in a hurry, just say we need to think about it and walk away. I know for a fact 37% with 2 recliners plus a rug and 2 tanks of fuel are possible.

[Rusty years]

It's too easy to shop by internet. As long as you know what you want, check across the country, sometimes it pays to travel to save thousands. Let them bid for your business.

[doc]

Don't fall in love with the unit - there are others out there. Last coach had the bells and whistles my wife wanted and the paint, engine, tranny and chassis I wanted. The sales guy realized that and I paid too much :(

[Bullitt]

Originally Posted by Scooter

Don't let DW queer the deal by gushing out loud how much she loves the unit you have picked out.

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

A now-departed friend and lawyer, Pete Smoot, offered this advice on RV negotiations:

Great advice from Scooter and Gary RVRoamer!!!

Do diligent research here on iRV2. The "search" bar near the top of the page will reveal a wealth of information from experienced and knowledgeable irv2 members.
.

[IC2]

Excellent advice above and looks to me like close to the philosophy I try to follow when I buy a vehicle. This year we traded for a new 2014 unit. When it was all done, we ended up with a much nicer trailer then what we originally were looking for - and that price, well let's say that we were at very close to the same final outlay in cash as the first one which was a used 2011 but we also walked from two other almost signed 'deals' once I had a chance to do the research and dollar numbers. As far as hurting the salesman's feelings - he doesn't have any when it comes to earning his commission/living. Now, my TV truck - yep, I paid a little more then I should have ($1000) for that but sometimes to get exactly what you want in a preowned, that does happen. RVs, never

[Bluejackets]

One word of advice, a good negotiator is the one that can take the other party right to the edge and push them over the cliff then catch them before they fall. Figure out where the dealer floor is and then go just below that if you are comfortable. I have negotiated many car deals and with all the information on the net you can figure out if they are fools or just foolish. I am looking at a a Fleetwood 39v at a local dealer. Unit has sat for at least 60 days. Price is avg retail but now that it is Oct in the north everyone says to go below 10% low NADA... I am going to to throw that offer today and see if we are even on the same planet.

[IC2]

Originally Posted by Bluejackets

One word of advice, a good negotiator is the one that can take the other party right to the edge and push them over the cliff then catch them before they fall. Figure out where the dealer floor is and then go just below that if you are comfortable. I have negotiated many car deals and with all the information on the net you can figure out if they are fools or just foolish. I am looking at a a Fleetwood 39v at a local dealer. Unit has sat for at least 60 days. Price is avg retail but now that it is Oct in the north everyone says to go below 10% low NADA... I am going to to throw that offer today and see if we are even on the same planet.

As a suggestion, and I'm assuming it's a used RV, try as low as 25%. We traded a very nice '06 5er and 3 of 4 stealerships were at and even a bit below that point in two cases. The one we ended up with 'paid' us NADA book average trade.

[Gerryl]

Wep,
The answers you are receiving from your thread are spot on. Being a skilled trained negotiator, I have used the following tactic to buy many cars over the years and it works the same for a motorhome. Since you didn’t say, I am assuming that you will be trading your present motorhome in on a new or different one.
When I first meet the salesman, I am very cordial, I give them my name and number, and tell them what I am interested in. I state emphatically that I don’t dicker!!! I hate to dicker. Wife and I went to Cancun once—we will never go back. All the natives want to do there is dicker. It’s part of their culture. I want one price and only one price. The only thing I want to know is: what do I have to write the check for? In other words, what is the difference between my vehicle and the new one?
Please don’t offend me by telling me the price of your vehicle or what you are going to give me for mine. Frankly, I don't care what the price is on yours or what you are giving me for mine. If I like the price difference I will say yes or no. If I say no, it’s over and I will leave. If you mention what the price of yours is, it’s over and I will leave. If you mention what you will give me for mine, it’s over and I will leave. Remember, the only thing that is important is what the price difference is between yours and theirs.
This method WORKS! The car I am driving now is proof. I paid about 70% of what other dealers were quoting me.
I started this off by saying that I always give the salesman my contact info (I hand them a card). This is important. A friend of mine used this method, and walked out. Two weeks later the dealer himself called and offered him a deal that he couldn’t refuse. They went back and bought the motorhome for almost $20,000 less than the original difference.
Always tell them that you intend to pay cash. If you later have to finance it, that is your option and you can search out your best deal through your own bank. But never tell them up front. The dealers all have a kickback deals with the banks and most will make an extra 2% interest on you. Dealers make a pretty penny on the financing. Keep that in mind.
Like Gary told you, you aren’t there to make lifetime friends, you are there to get the best deal you can. Many people finance cars and motorhomes. Don’t get caught up and distracted by looking at monthly payments. Vehicle salesman are highly trained to switch the discussions to monthly payments. Be aware, be firm, be smart and don’t be afraid to walk.
Remember the only thing that is important is: THE TOTAL PRICE DIFFERENCE
If this helps some buy a MH or a vehicle, post it here for us all to see.

[Rusty years]

Originally Posted by Gerryl

Wep,
The answers you are receiving from your thread are spot on. Being a skilled trained negotiator, I have used the following tactic to buy many cars over the years and it works the same for a motorhome. Since you didn’t say, I am assuming that you will be trading your present motorhome in on a new or different one.
When I first meet the salesman, I am very cordial, I give them my name and number, and tell them what I am interested in. I state emphatically that I don’t dicker!!! I hate to dicker. Wife and I went to Cancun once—we will never go back. All the natives want to do there is dicker. It’s part of their culture. I want one price and only one price. The only thing I want to know is: what do I have to write the check for? In other words, what is the difference between my vehicle and the new one?
Please don’t offend me by telling me the price of your vehicle or what you are going to give me for mine. Frankly, I don't care what the price is on yours or what you are giving me for mine. If I like the price difference I will say yes or no. If I say no, it’s over and I will leave. If you mention what the price of yours is, it’s over and I will leave. If you mention what you will give me for mine, it’s over and I will leave. Remember, the only thing that is important is what the price difference is between yours and theirs.
This method WORKS! The car I am driving now is proof. I paid about 70% of what other dealers were quoting me.
I started this off by saying that I always give the salesman my contact info (I hand them a card). This is important. A friend of mine used this method, and walked out. Two weeks later the dealer himself called and offered him a deal that he couldn’t refuse. They went back and bought the motorhome for almost $20,000 less than the original difference.
Always tell them that you intend to pay cash. If you later have to finance it, that is your option and you can search out your best deal through your own bank. But never tell them up front. The dealers all have a kickback deals with the banks and most will make an extra 2% interest on you. Dealers make a pretty penny on the financing. Keep that in mind.
Like Gary told you, you aren’t there to make lifetime friends, you are there to get the best deal you can. Many people finance cars and motorhomes. Don’t get caught up and distracted by looking at monthly payments. Vehicle salesman are highly trained to switch the discussions to monthly payments. Be aware, be firm, be smart and don’t be afraid to walk.
Remember the only thing that is important is: THE TOTAL PRICE DIFFERENCE
If this helps some buy a MH or a vehicle, post it here for us all to see.

I was in the car business most of my life and ended up as a consultant. Anyone who came to me with this attitude I would invite to shop elsewhere. You're playing my game and I'm the house so I will always be the winner. You claim to be a skilled & trained negotiator yet you won't negotiate.
Listen everyone, buying a RV is the same as buying a car, boat or house. The seller wants as much as possible and the buyer wants to pay as little as possible. I'll tell you my strategy as a dealer: If we've gotten as much as we can from the buyer and it's more than we paid - sell it. If you don't show respect to the seller then stay home. Those people in Cancun and the rest of the world are struggling to make a living and you don't approve. What a sweet guy. I'll out deal you any day.
Just do your shopping and sit down intelligently. Be prepared to make an offer, with a deposit, or don't bother the sales people, they have to work with serious people to earn a living. So many people come in and make an offer that is less than we paid, being a smart ass. Our favorite saying was "buyers are liars". You've done quite the job of denigrating professional salespeople. By the way, I don't think much of the American work force in general yet my dealerships always had the highest customer service rating from the factory. If service is important, shop around the country and then discuss with your local dealer. I would pay a little more to buy locally. By the way, you don't have to hide how you're going to pay for it, they may do better than your local bank even if they make a little money on it. In fact, sometimes you can get a better price if you finance with the dealer so add that into the negotiation after shopping for finance.